Zone Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 Help, I noticed the front edge of my board is separating from the base/ board over about 10 cm. Any suggestions on how to fix it? Must be all that time spent on the edge literally. As a side note, I noticed that I only need to wax the first 1 inch of the board from the edge, the rest of the base has almost no sign of wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 not a good sign of quality :) repair is quite easy: 1. protect base, sidewall and topsheet with wrapping tape ( the thin khaki type), make sure you get to the very close edge of the base and the sidewall, where the steel should be. and cover widely elsewhere 2. find some epoxy resin, that is very liquid, in case all you can find is blue araldite, its a bit "stiff" but you can put the two parts on a lamp for a while so it goes up to 50-60°C: it will make the resin more fluid. 3. mix the resin ( two components usually) 4. pour everywhere in the area, and lift the base and the hole on the sidewall part so the resin goes everywhere deep. A good solution is to build a "pipe like container with the wrapping tape so you can put 5mm thick of resin that will not leak everywhere. You want then to make sure all the air in the hole zone is replaced by resin: move the steel in and out, and since all there is above is resin, it will soon replace all air within ( no worries about resin beeing on the steel it will be removed easy after it dries) 5. replace the steel edge where it should be, and press the base on the steel edge ( on the part that is inside the board of course) to hold everything in place. 6. let dry in a hot warm place for better resin polymerisation. Ideal temp for blue araldite is around 55 °C. Let cure for 24 hours 7. remove all wrapping and cut the resin that holds on the steel with a strong cutter knife without harming the base / sidewall. Have fun :) PS: critical part: remove air, and make sure the steel is held close to the base before drying!! Nils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zone Posted March 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 Thanks for the quick reply Nils. The board is an old ~10+ year old Wild Duck, so things may not hold so well after all this time, especially with so much time on the edge EC'ing. Home Depot time:( :( Or alternatively, a new 2 or 3D Swoard!!!:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zone Posted March 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 Super Glue is very liquid, would that do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 cyanoacrylate glues are to weak for that! epoxy rules :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy S. Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 And you want an epoxy that stays flexible at low temps. If Homer De Pot can't help you, ask somewhere else (woodworking store). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skywalker Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 Hi Doc. My little sister owns a Knifer, which also lost ist's edge. We did quite a lot of work to fix it. First like Nils described just from "outside". As that did not last, we removed a piece of the base, fixed the edge and reassembled the piece of the base. What I saw when the base was removed made me decide not to spend any single minute of work for that piece of crap. The whole edge showed corrosion (not only the splitted area), thin layer of fiberglas wich was not laminated properly and so on. My advice to you is: Get any other alpine board on ebay and forget the WD :( Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted March 10, 2005 Report Share Posted March 10, 2005 http://www.telemarktips.com/BaseRepair.html It is a telemark site, but I did this on my Rossi Alpine and it worked great. The screws in the edge will hold it better than any glue. IMHO it works but is not guaranteed take another board to the hill with you just in case. I had to get 5 more days in on my board untill my coiler arrived and it lasted fine. You can get new base material at a ski shop or http://www.snowboardmaterials.com/ The whole process takes 4 or 5 days you have to let the glue dry overnight between steps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted March 11, 2005 Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 in that particular WD case, the edge is not bent or torn etc... it just needs some regluing and press time! The telemark repair is nice thu, and result clean! N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zone Posted March 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 Thanks all for your help. Will attempt repair this weekend. The WD is otherwise stil a great board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. T Posted March 11, 2005 Report Share Posted March 11, 2005 I have had really good luck using heat prior to gluing, iron, blowdrier, or even heat gun, the latter prolly with caution. The thought is that warming the core pulls more epoxy in. Also most hardware stores have c-clamps with three screws, one at each end of the "c" and one in the middle. These let you clamp to the board and apply even pressure to the edge during epoxy set. May need to use a few clamps. Just make sure to protect base and top sheet, park cone wrenches work well. I splurged and got some fancy swiss base repair specific epoxy, works really well but regular old epoxy may work well also. tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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