Burton race plates

[Toodles]

Does anyone know of any Youtube videos for Burton Race Plate installations using the Cant Wedge as well, or any good descriptive write-ups for them?

I'm installing a set for my daughter on a Factory Prime.

I'm guessing the 2 arrows on the sides of the plate that mark center should line up (as close as possible) with the lines on the bottom of the boots that mark center, much like a ski boot does on the center line marked on skis... 

 Am i right or wrong?

Thanks

[Beckmann AG]

For the front foot : Visualize where the plantar aspect of the heel bone and first metatarsal bone make contact with the interior of the boot shell, then locate those two points a similar distance from the respective edges of the board by moving the toe and heel pads of the binding fore and aft on the baseplate.

Then set the rear binding in similar fashion.  The heel and ball of the foot bear the load, and it's generally a good idea for the toeside/heelside leverage ratio to be balanced. Otherwise one edge will be more reactive, while the opposite will take more effort at the expense of accuracy.

BTW, a flat front binding, combined with a lifted heel and inward canted rear binding is a pretty good way to develop some funky habits, and/or retard the learning curve.

 

http://beckmannag.com/hardboot-snowboarding/hardboot-binding-configuration

 

Edited December 3, 2018 by Beckmann AG

[Toodles]

So I should do away with the rear cant wedge and run both front and rear bindings flat?  If that's the case, why do most bindings come with a rear cant?  Just wondering.

I've got her bindings set at 45 degrees front and 39 degrees rear.. Is this a good starting point?  There seems to be so many different opinions...

[BlueB]

A bit of toe lift in front, a bit of heel lift in the back, no cant. On Burton race plates it's easiest to acheive by adding shims between the baseplate and toe/heel blocks. Cut them out of a cutting biard or something... 

[ibrussell]

I've been riding Burton plate's with a flat front and the rectangle lift/cant for 28 years and having fun.  If I don't have the rear lift my knee hurts. I also use a 3 deg toe 6 deg heel lift on my TD's.  The 45/39 sounds like a good starting point. When you make changes only do one at a time and ask better/worst. If your having fun so what about funky habits.

[Toodles]

Is the Burton provided 7 degree wedge considered a Lift or a Cant... or both?  Maybe I've been calling it the wrong thing..

I've always just used it on the rear foot with a flat front binding..  Thought this was appropriate and how it was meant to be, never questioned it, came in the box so figured it was meant to be used.

For setting up the boots to the bindings, the front and rear blocks both have number markings on them for setup.. Do I center the boots on the middle of the binding/disc where the center mark is on the sides, or do I center the boots by having both the front and rear block numbers the same? Eg: both front and rear blocks set on position #2..  I've currently got the boots centered on the disc which leaves them at position #3 on the front block and position #1 on the rear block for both bindings..

[ibrussell]

The 7 deg is both. The smaller round is just lift and a two piece plastic uni you can adjust both lift and cant.   I've always center the boot in the middle of the binding and the blocks are on different numbers.  You  can set them up as Beckmann said and they should be pretty close to the center line of the binding. Then you can move them toward the problem turn.