steven Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 anyone know specs/ride characteristics of this board? What year(s) was this made? thx!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexJ Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 Just an FYI "Grand Prix" is not a model, it is what the original owner named it. When Madd build those boards everyone who ordered them got to name their board. Madd generically named a bunch as well. So this board it just the run of the mill Madd 170, Green sidewall board. waist is basically 18CM. Sidecut, no one really knows, but there might be some that spent way to much time figuring that out. Made in the 2008 era. Characteristics everyone will have a different opinion, so peoples input on that is worthless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 pic seems to be missing? I thought 2007 was the last year of retail production. The boards with individual names were 2005. If the topsheet is blue it's definitely 2005. In 2006 they went back to a more traditional translucent tan-ish amber-ish topsheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCdice Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 This is a 2005 version. I have "The Lightsaber". Great fun board for the money. Scoop it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted December 6, 2016 Report Share Posted December 6, 2016 Compared with many '170cm' sized alpine boards, the Madds 170 will seem to be turny, fairly nimble, have excellent edge hold, but a somewhat soft-ish flex. Construction is reasonably solid, but the nose can be prone to impact damage where the top-sheet meets the sidewall (racers take note!). The p-tex is NOT the 'super-base' found on the boards from the late 90's, but it's decent enough. The inserts are steel, not brass, but the idea of stancing a 1/2"-1" forward is still valid for these. If you ride firm snow, this is a good board to own. It's too turny for GS in most cases, and just long enough to be a foot-full in SL courses, so it's best as a freecarver, not as a raceboard. When we used to do demoes w/coaching, I was always amazed at how many different people (and by that, I mean physical size and/or ability disparities) could get on-board and be railing turns within a 1/2 hr., with my, CMC's,or JG's coaching. If you stay low, flexed, and just trust the edge-hold, you'll be making sweet turns easily. Try to force it, and ya might get bucked. If you're out West, this might not be the best board, as the nose tends to flex into the carve deeply, and it doesn't really like being stanced too far aft. The price for the one here in BST is very fair. For a board that's almost 20 yrs. in design, it's still pretty decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven Posted December 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 great info, thx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted December 7, 2016 Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 On 12/6/2016 at 0:47 PM, Eric Brammer aka PSR said: Compared with many '170cm' sized alpine boards, the Madds 170 will seem to be turny, fairly nimble, have excellent edge hold, but a somewhat soft-ish flex. Construction is reasonably solid, but the nose can be prone to impact damage where the top-sheet meets the sidewall (racers take note!). The p-tex is NOT the 'super-base' found on the boards from the late 90's, but it's decent enough. The inserts are steel, not brass, but the idea of stancing a 1/2"-1" forward is still valid for these. If you ride firm snow, this is a good board to own. It's too turny for GS in most cases, and just long enough to be a foot-full in SL courses, so it's best as a freecarver, not as a raceboard. When we used to do demoes w/coaching, I was always amazed at how many different people (and by that, I mean physical size and/or ability disparities) could get on-board and be railing turns within a 1/2 hr., with my, CMC's,or JG's coaching. If you stay low, flexed, and just trust the edge-hold, you'll be making sweet turns easily. Try to force it, and ya might get bucked. If you're out West, this might not be the best board, as the nose tends to flex into the carve deeply, and it doesn't really like being stanced too far aft. The price for the one here in BST is very fair. For a board that's almost 20 yrs. in design, it's still pretty decent. Mine got damaged on the nose few seasons ago. I chopped it off (about 1&1/2 or 2") and epoxied it. Now, I don't have to worry about stuffing the nose or overpowering the nose. It rides solid as before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Ah, mine was named "the Pimp." -_- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven Posted December 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 Thanks again Richard- this thing is in great shape! Question: I'm using F2 carve rs bindings and 312mm shell upz boots. Even at 60/55 It looks like i will have some boot-out on one side or the other. Looking forward to experimenting tomorrow. what angles are you guys running on an 18cm wide board with a comparable size boot (28-28.5) in order to not have any toe or help drag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 18 minutes ago, steven said: Thanks again Richard- this thing is in great shape! Question: I'm using F2 carve rs bindings and 312mm shell upz boots. Even at 60/55 It looks like i will have some boot-out on one side or the other. Looking forward to experimenting tomorrow. what angles are you guys running on an 18cm wide board with a comparable size boot (28-28.5) in order to not have any toe or help drag? 70/63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Brammer aka PSR Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 (edited) Steven, one little trick I learned, but, may not apply to newer F-2's, was to shave (using a flat file or dremel) a little off the corners at an angle. That allowed me to back off of the angles a tad. F-2's can also be elevated under the toe/heel blocks with pieces of cut+drilled plastic, like cutting boards from the kitchen. With UPZ's, be sure to push the rear boot's toe as far forward as you can (without booting out), as the heel pocket actually sits ON the rear bail, not ahead of it. Use the center-marks to stay in the middle of the board's centerline. If you have run (and I think you will) angles over 55 degrees, be aware of the board's camber; I advise doing a bit of one-footin' before riding the chairlift! Edited December 14, 2016 by Eric Brammer aka PSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piusthedrcarve Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 3 hours ago, steven said: Thanks again Richard- this thing is in great shape! Question: I'm using F2 carve rs bindings and 312mm shell upz boots. Even at 60/55 It looks like i will have some boot-out on one side or the other. Looking forward to experimenting tomorrow. what angles are you guys running on an 18cm wide board with a comparable size boot (28-28.5) in order to not have any toe or help drag? I use F2 Race Titanium and same size of UPZ boots as you. I ride at 65/60 on Madd or any other carving boards. As PSR said, make sure you centered boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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