TD3 SW for 2015/16 Season VS. Older and Small Boots

[AcousticBoarder]

I recently got a pair of TD3 SW used, however was having problems getting them to fit my M25 UPZ boots. It was possible, but I had to flip around the toe bail. I heard that the newer bails/ lugs helped with that so I set out to buy replacement parts, but upon realizing that the total I would have spent on that set of bindings would be the same as buying a new pair, I decided to purchase a set new instead. I have compared the baseplates and uppers and have found the following information:

 

I used a set of calipers where possible to get measurements, and a kitchen scale to compare weight. I do not have a confirmed year for the old bindings, however they are supposedly from within the first two years of the SideWinder being produced.

 

Base Plates

I took the baseplates and using the set of outermost toe holes, put them together with the screws for the toe and heel blocks. I found that all of the toe block holes were the same distance apart with the new and old plates, and the same for the heel block holes. However, the distance between each toe and heel is smaller on the new baseplate by about 2 mm. You can see the difference in the image below.

The weight difference was minimal, with the New plate coming in at 229g and the Old at 223g. There was no difference in thickness or other designs of the plates. (old on top)

Although making no difference in fit for boots, I also found that there was a difference in depth or angle for the channels for the angle adjustment screws which attach the Base Plate to the Cant Rings, with the old one having a flat lip at the top.

(new on top)

 

Lug Shaft and Heel Blocks

I took the sole blocks and compared them. The first noticeable difference are the Lug Shafts and associated parts. On the new versions, both sides require a 4mm Hex key, and the old ones are notched to "lock in place" of the Lugs. There is also a slight color difference in the blue e-pads - the old ones are darker, almost black.

(new on top)

 

Also looking at them from above, there is a visual difference with the number of divots on each block. The old ones have 3 on each side for a total of 6, and the new ones have 4 on each side for a total of 8. The indicator, which is a small divot in the upper left, remains the same and indicates if the block is for the toe, heel, or stepin.

(old on the left)

 

Taking them apart, the heel blocks do not have any noticeable differences, besides what has been mentioned already, all holes and shapes seem to line up exactly.

(new on left)

Taking their weight, the new set comes in at 229g, and the old at 237g

 

Comparing the bails however, there is some noticeable difference between the two. The newer one looks more gradually curved and less angled. The threaded length was also longer on the new bails, potentially allowing the Lugs to go further up and making the bail smaller. The new bail threaded length was about 13mm, and the old about 12.5mm

(new on left)

 

I put together just the bails without the blocks, making them as small as possible, and measured the inside from Lug Shaft to Bail. On the new ones I got a measurement of about 62.8mm and the old about 65.3mm.

(new on left)

 

Toe Blocks

I took the same steps in the toe blocks and bails as I did with the heel blocks. Like the heel blocks, there is an extra divot on each side of the new ones than the old has, otherwise shape and hole alignment seems to be the same.

For weight, the new toe block assembly came in at 280g, and the old at 284g. 

 

The bails appeared to be the same shape, although it is more difficult to tell with the toe clip. The clips also seemed to be the same, however the set screw of the new one has a smoother, convex shape to it on the bottom, whereas the old one is just flat.

The threading on the bails was similar to the heel bails, with the new ones having about 13.5mm of threading, and the old 12.5mm

(new on left)

 

With the same process as the heel bails, the internal measurement from the top of the bail (just to the side of the toe clip) to the lug shaft for the new one came in at 67.6mm, and the old one had 71.2mm of space.

 

Overall

I attached the toe and heel assemblies on to their respective base plates, with all adjustments to as small as possible. My calipers are not big enough to measure the gap, so I had to suffice with a tape measure. 

The new upper assembly had 11 inches of space between the toe and heel bails, with both of the bails out against their stops. The Old ones ended up having 11 3/8 inches of clearance between the two bails, again with both fully extended against their stops.

Please note that this measurement is with the bails against their stops, not fitted to a boot. 

When placing my m25 UPZ boot in the old binding, it is obviously loose. In the new binding it is tight to the point that I should/ could probably move either the toe or heel block out one notch (not screw hole).

 

Personally, I will still be flipping the toe block around, it allows easier access to the angle adjustment screws, and the ability to have some more bias adjustment.

 

I hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions!

 

 

 

[Corey]

Nice analysis!

I've been buying about one set of TD3s each year and have noticed the small improvements every year. You can always improve things!

[pdube1]

I thought you would have to flip the heel block instead of the toe block to get the UPZ boot centered on the board?

 

I have the previous model of the TD3 SW, I was not able to center my M25 UPZ on the board, I had to flip the toe block.  But then decided to flip back the block in original position, not enough patience when came time to bind the boot without the bail hard stop.  :-)

[AcousticBoarder]

Yes, that is why I only flipped the toe. With the placement of the heel on the upz, I didn't want to do the heel.

[www.oldsnowboards.com]

Nicely done!! Great feedback info!!