rikytheripster Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Currently I ride with approx 10mm of toe and heel clearance from the edge of the board to the boot(s) - when viewed from the top down. Am on Sw's with 3deg discs on a Coiler AM 171 or Monster 182, angles are approx 50/50 deg. I think I may be booting out on softer snow / slush as when I try to increase the edge angle slightly I suddenly loose edge pressure and wash out. I dont feel a dragging just the release of edge pressure. I can comfortably carve toe/heel to the point where my trousers are almost dragging (few inch's away) but not quite, when I try and go that bit lower I wash out. Cord is hard to find at the minute as I'd experiment on that otherwise. What sort of edge clearance are people running? I appreciate this depends on various factors.... I weigh 190lbs so am also thinking the edge may be sinking into the snow a fair bit. Appreciate any thoughts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Are you saying that your toes/heels are 10mm inside the profile of the board? (a.k.a. underhang) Or outside the profile of the board? (a.k.a. overhang) If outside/overhang, that's your problem! Also look at the upper cuff buckles and anything a little higher than you'd expect. I didn't realize how much 'thicker' my UPZ cuff buckles were until I had a crappy day trying to learn EC riding. I realized that the heel had good clearance but the front boot buckles were hitting and levering the board up out of the snow. That sucked. I tried going further for 'better' clearance, but realized that as the snow gets soft enough to sink deeply, it can't support the same loads so you end up 'slarving' before you get to 90-degrees anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rikytheripster Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Good point Corey - it's underhang so inside. Do you think 10mm is enough? I will check the cuffs/buckles also as that may be the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger jr Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I have Deeluxe boots and need at least 15mm inboard on the front boot heelside. BTS makes it a little worse as that is where the boot sticks out the most. I measure with a square or level and measure from the BTS or whatever sticks out furthest on your boot This is when the snow is just right, softish. Was annoying as hell until I figured it out. Locked in and then all of the sudden lose the grip. Only had the problem on heelside never on toeside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beckmann AG Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) I can comfortably carve toe/heel to the point where my trousers are almost dragging (few inch's away) but not quite, when I try and go that bit lower I wash out. Sounds like you get a bit too far inside the turn, and the board won't hold you up any longer. That's more a matter of managing the bend in the board than the tilt itself. If the snow is soft enough to really sink in, then it's probably soft enough to get shoved aside by any overhang without lifting the board off edge. Overhang is more of a problem on the hardpack. If in doubt, clip your boots in the bindings, and tilt to near vertical on the carpet while bending the board to the point that the entire edge is in contact with the floor. If the boots/bindings aren't obviously hitting, then its probably application and not equipment. Edited March 17, 2015 by Beckmann AG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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