Mongo Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Hi all, My name is Andre and I am new here, I am a regular snowboarder; I have read the FAQ section already. I have a regular Burton board with "the channel", I mean, there aren't screw holes on it. At this moment, I am not "really" interested in carving but I'd like to try a "step in" binding, it seems to be much more convenient that having to sit down to tight the straps on a regular binding, Please, I wonder if there are compatible plates/bindings for a board like mine ? Or do I have to necessarily buy an "all mountain" carving board ? Also, going into hardbooting would be very interesting ! Any suggestions about gear please ? What kind of plates/bindings should I buy ? I am in Calgary, AB, Canada. Thanks a lot, Andre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy... Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 With hard boot step in bindings, just about any non- Burton boot will be compatible with the Intec system (I recommend Bomber Fintec heels over the F2 Intec heels). Snowpro make step ins as well, but are of a different design and not as common as the Intec system. Burton made some step in plate bindings way back when, but they're hard to come by and aren't worth searching for unless you REALLY want Burton bindings. I have to ask- if you're not really into carving, why bother with hard boots? I mean, I get that you want to try step ins, but you're going to be crippled in the park and powder and trees compared to softies, and since there are softie step ins, why not just go that route? There are several step in binding systems for soft boots out there, but the boots are proprietary to the bindings. IE- if you get the bindings, you need the specific boots for it as well. Lastly, hard boots on a freestyle board is kind of like putting low profile, sticky tires on a lifted truck. Yeah, it'll work, but the rest of the system is going to be a compromise and you won't really get the full experience of what the tires have to offer. A freestyle board is very soft and lacks the effective edge length that a carving board of the same size will offer, so you will never be able to carve like you could with a carving board under your bindings. Here's an F2 Intec binding on a Burton channel board. They mounted it by drilling two holes in the center disc of the binding. I've never ridden one of these boards with these bindings, but only two bolts holding the binding down has me very, very dubious. If you handed that to me at the top of the lift and told me to rip it, I'd probably turn it down. Other folks on here may say otherwise. http://philwigglesworth.net/BlogEngine.NET/image.axd?picture=2011%2F2%2F971808283.jpg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidad62 Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Have you looked into Flow bindings - not sure you can adapt to the channel - but for a soft boot set up they are slide in and flip up the back - no sitting. Once you set the front ratchets once your all set. http://www.flow.com/Products/Bindings 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmetroland Posted February 10, 2015 Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you're looking to stay with "soft" boots, K2 has resurrected their Clicker system (Kwicker now?) that was popular in the 90s/00s. If you search Kwicker in the Bomber forums, you'll find some back and forth on it. I emphasize "soft" because the compatible boots will be somewhat stiffer than even a stiff soft book to compensate for the absent highback. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy... Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Totally forgot about the Flows... a buddy has them and he's in and out almost as quickly as I am with my Intec. He still has to bend over to fiddle with the latch, but he's not sitting down to do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Soze Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 +1 on the Flow bindings, they snap in as easily as standard toe bails on our hardboots. This isn't a step in, but it's definitely quicker than using the ratchets to tighten your free foot every time you step off the lift. My girlfriend has flow bindings and would never go back. Flow actually offers a centre-disc that is compatible with the Burton channel hardware. READ THE DESCRIPTION ON THE RIGHT, as theses centre discs are not compatible with every Flow binding model. http://www.flow.com/Products/accessories/channel-disc-f-h-m-plastic/FM14A5CDPLSTD Here is a video on how to install a Burton conversion disc on an older 3D Burton binding. Not the same, but looking at the Flow conversion disc, I imagine it's probably very similar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4jw860LKc4 Good luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hi everybody, Thanks for replying, I really appreciate it. I may go into "light" carving, but it'll only be po$$ible to try it next season, In terms of an entry-level board, which one would be a good choice ? I'd be mainly looking at carving (speeding), but not really racing against anyone. Are all carving boards asymetrical ? The reason I am asking is because, initially, I'd try to use it as a regular board, I mean, with my feet 15 and -15 degrees. I remember having seen that carving boards are divided into 3 sub groups, but can't find the link ! This one sounds interesting: http://www.yyzcanuck.com/store/Donek-Pilot-Super-Package.html but I wonder if the board is what I am looking for...(?). Is a plate really necessary ? It'd be good to have a system to damp the bumping, My overall budget would be around say $ 1k, Thanks a lot, I really apreciate your help guys ! Mongo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 I'll definitely take a look at this Flow bindings you guys have pointed me, thanks ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcousticBoarder Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Flow bindings are great, I use them as my soft setup. Mine are compatible with the channel inserts If you want to look at a new board, from what it sounds like, I would start with an all mountain board if you are wanting to dabble in carving but still be in soft, as well as have the option of going hard. Look for something like the Donek Incline. Maybe look at power plates here on bomber if you get the carving itch but want to stay soft and/or have low angles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy... Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hi everybody, Thanks for replying, I really appreciate it. I may go into "light" carving, but it'll only be po$$ible to try it next season, In terms of an entry-level board, which one would be a good choice ? I'd be mainly looking at carving (speeding), but not really racing against anyone. Are all carving boards asymetrical ? The reason I am asking is because, initially, I'd try to use it as a regular board, I mean, with my feet 15 and -15 degrees. I remember having seen that carving boards are divided into 3 sub groups, but can't find the link ! This one sounds interesting: http://www.yyzcanuck.com/store/Donek-Pilot-Super-Package.html but I wonder if the board is what I am looking for...(?). Is a plate really necessary ? It'd be good to have a system to damp the bumping, My overall budget would be around say $ 1k, Thanks a lot, I really apreciate your help guys ! Mongo Can't go wrong with a Pilot as a first board; that's what they're designed to be. Cheaper options would be used equipment in the classifieds here. Sizing is going to be a little different than you're used to- since you're not new to snowboarding, get something about as long as you are tall, and built for your weight (ask the seller!). Cheap is good to get your toes wet and test the waters. However, let me caveat that with my personal experience: I bought a Nitro 159 off eBay because it was cheap and because I wasn't sure if hardbooting was going to be what I wanted it to be. I did buy new boots, though, because your feet are THE most important part of the equation, so don't be shy on spending good money for quality footwear. As a side note, if you do buy used boots, the money you save would be well put towards new heat moldable liners. Anyway... expensive boots, cheap board, near useless bindings. The first week or so, I fought the board every second I was on it. It sucked. All it wanted to do was pearl and catch edges and just be as big a pain in the ass as possible. I still have it because I can't bring myself to even give it away, and it's the only board I've ever ridden that has truly scared me; I'd rather try to run my 196cm Coiler through the trees on a powder day than ride that Nitro on hero snow. It was not fun, I was miserable, and was wondering what the hell I just wasted my money on. Then a friend let me ride a Kessler 168 and I shit you not- within two turns I made about half a season's worth of progress. It was night and day. I ended up buying that board that afternoon and will always recommend someone spend the big bucks on a high end metal board if they can afford it and if they're serious about carving. Some will argue that a high end board will mask bad habits, and this is true. However, it will also build your confidence quicker because you're not spending every turn worried that some piece of shit board is going to spit you out the top and try to highside you to the moon. Good gear costs what it costs because it is worth it. Moral of the story: Get the best board you can afford, be it a $200 used Burton Factory Prime or a brand new $1600 Kessler, but if that Pilot isn't out of your budget, it's worth a strong look at. Coincidentally, the folks that run YYZed are really awesome people and have great customer service. Asymmetrical means that the toe edge is further forward than the heel edge; the word you're looking for is directional, and yes, most carve boards are. They can be ridden backwards though, because all of the tails do have some upturn to them. Prior, Donek and Coiler make all mountain boards that would allow you to ride switch on. Thing is... you definitely would not want to ride 15/-15 with hard boots because of toe and heel overhang. Before you get on the hard boots, turn your soft boot bindings forward so they're about 33/30 on your Burton and get used to riding like that before you get into the hard boots. Also, carving boards are about 5cm narrower than similarly sized freestyle boards, so if you were to set up a duck stance with the hard boots (really, REALLY bad idea), you'd be looking at angles somewhere around 55/-55, depending on how big your feet are. You might as well stay at home if you're going to try to ride like that. With hard boots on a carving board, you stance will be directional and it will be facing forward, so don't plan on riding switch too much, if at all. Some guys can tear it up going backwards; me, I only go backwards if I have to when maneuvering through the gaggle of people at the top of the lift. Plates aren't necessary to start out. Google "Carvers Almanac." That's the link you're thinking of. A lot of good info on there, as well as the tech section on Bomber. Read, read, read, read, and read some more. And when you get all your hardboot goodies, read this word for word and follow it exactly to save yourself a ton of trouble: http://beckmannag.com/hardboot-snowboarding/hardboot-binding-configuration BeckmannAG also posts here and is extremely helpful and knowledgeable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy... Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Oh yes- and when you buy hard boots, make sure you take the time to size them accordingly. As in, very carefully follow this exactly as described: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/Sizing_boots.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mongo Posted February 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Oh yes- and when you buy hard boots, make sure you take the time to size them accordingly. As in, very carefully follow this exactly as described: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/PDFs/Sizing_boots.pdf Thanks a lot "that guy", I have read everything and will keep this thread as "the bible" when I start; 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markbvt Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 You should definitely check out K2's Kwicker step-ins. They're being marketed for splitboard use, but K2 does also make a "resort" version of the binding designed to mount to normal snowboards, including Burton channel ones. The Stark boot designed for use with the Kwicker bindings should be somewhere in between the stiffness of a hardboot and a typical softboot. --mark 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purpletiesto Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 K2 kicker... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'd stay away from the Pilot. It is a beginner carving board but is just that - a carving board... I'd take the ElDiablo instead. Also suitable for learning the carve, but will be an excellent all-round play board for hard boots, later when you are ready for high quality dedicated carver. You do not need step in bindings with hard boot stuff - it is very easy and quick to flip the lever up. With soft boots, yes it's quicker. As people said, Flow, Clickers and old Switch system (Vans). There are also the Deluxe and Fast systems for softies, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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