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Outdoor Tuning / Wax Bench


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Anyone have any DIY ideas for a nice outdoor tuning bench? Been pondering this for some time.

Just got a boost two days ago when a neighbor asked if I wanted an old bench/cabinet. It was a good old plywood cabinet and I like the design (heavy) so we carted back to my house and I have been looking for a dry day to start "Shaping" it. I have some ideas. The one key thing is to have it set up so it can catch the scrapings and yet look good when not being used as a wax table. The top will hinge up and provide a tool storage , when down it will be a weather resistant work top.

So far:

Drag this beast home.

Knock the cobwebs and nasties off it.

Cut the bottom 3.5" off that was rotten.

Attach two pressure treated 4x4"s to the bottom I cut off.

Found some old school drawers at the re-use store today for 3$ each. x 5

So far I am into it about 20$ and a sore back!

Bryan

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Sorry about the "Photo Delay". I took some photos of the cabinet rotten bottom edge during the removeal , unfortunately when I went to download them it showed the photo file names and no photos. Another reason my old phone needs to go.

Here are some I took after I had removed the rotten bottom 4" and installed some pressure treated 4x4s on the bottom edge.

Laid a plywood shelf on top of the 4x4s and screwed it all together. I cut one of my old 2x12" planks to make a burly top.

If it was a couple inches longer I would consider lining the bottom section with foam insulation and make a "Hot Box" out of it.

Bryan

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Hey Bryan, for a waxing bench I feel what you've got is too low. I also use a cabinet as its heavy and doesnt move and has all the room I need for my tools, but it's a lot taller than yours. With my Swix vices I think a snowboard rests at about 65" doesn't cause me to have to bend my back when ironing/scraping etc. Adding a couple of legs to bump up the height will sacrifice some stability, but your back will thank you for it :)

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I would go about the top differently. Instead of putting the 2x6's across the top like you have in the picture, attach them inside about 1.5-2 inches below the outer edge. Pretty much at the bottom of that unpainted board. This gives you a recessed area that will catch wax shavings, but still look nice and be usable as a shelf. To support the snowboards when laying flat you just need a few blocks cut to the right height to place under the board where needed, and with your long boards the edge of the cabinet will do that as well and the extra space gives the bindings room to hang without tilting the board. Now, you can also cut a vertical slot in the sides that allows you to put the board on edge for edge tuning. there are several ways to get that "top" in under the board, but the easiest would be to cut it to size and brace it up against that unpainted board, then screw another board in under it to hold it in place.

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I will measure and report the actual height.

Current thoughts:

Placing a set of wheels on it so I can move it around. Not allot, just the occasional move. Possibly wheel barrow wheels I have placed off center , drilling and placing a solid axle through the 4x4s at the bottom. I could then remove them and set them on the bottom shelf.

I cut roughly 3.5" off the bottom because it was rotten and delaminated. I wish the photos had come out. It was pretty bad. Fortunately the rest was in excellent condition.

Thanks for the suggestions and comments.

Bryan

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I would go about the top differently. Instead of putting the 2x6's across the top like you have in the picture, attach them inside about 1.5-2 inches below the outer edge. Pretty much at the bottom of that unpainted board. This gives you a recessed area that will catch wax shavings, but still look nice and be usable as a shelf. To support the snowboards when laying flat you just need a few blocks cut to the right height to place under the board where needed, and with your long boards the edge of the cabinet will do that as well and the extra space gives the bindings room to hang without tilting the board. Now, you can also cut a vertical slot in the sides that allows you to put the board on edge for edge tuning. there are several ways to get that "top" in under the board, but the easiest would be to cut it to size and brace it up against that unpainted board, then screw another board in under it to hold it in place.

YES!! YES!!

Exactly. I have a piece of plywood to go about 3" down , maybe more from the top. My thought currently is to have a lift top that swings up with tool holders for some of the other fixtures (for holding boards in different possitions

I will try to come up with a way the top can hinge up and remain water resistant. I have lots of heavy hinges and latches.

PS, FYI. The top boards are just laying there for now. They are 2x12s that I used for planking. They have clear varithane on them and have stayed pretty flat for several years. So, I think they are good canidates for a top. They width is not quite enought to cover the top. I am thinking I will incorporate another board to finish the width and allow for over hang. This will provide purchase for the vises and rain run off.

Edited by www.oldsnowboards.com
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The hinged top would be nice addition for the reasons you said.

https://www.google.com/search?q=hinged+top+workbench&sa=X&espv=210&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=FN0UU5PTMLHeyQHlnIGIBg&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1202&bih=859

Most of these guys have them swing down to get them out of the way, but you'd just reverse the hinge. The hinge won't really need to be heavy duty and I assume you'll have the top rest against the wall when it's open. The full length hinge will work great though and not put the stress points all in one spot. You could also put a little gas piston in there to hold it when it's open. Plenty of cheap options at car parts websites for those.

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