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Burton Ultra Prime 164 2001...looking for specs please


cyclingdoc

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I have an old Burton ultra prime 164. Teal top sheet with small robot between the inserts. Also says 2001. 6.4, 163.5.

Does anyone have the specs? Particularly the sidecut radius.

I feel like I have the only one in the world. I searched the Internet, forums, and can't find another one like it. Odd

thanks,

jack

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I have an old Burton ultra prime 164. Teal top sheet with small robot between the inserts. Also says 2001. 6.4, 163.5.

Does anyone have the specs? Particularly the sidecut radius.

I feel like I have the only one in the world. I searched the Internet, forums, and can't find another one like it. Odd

thanks,

jack

[ATTACH]37380[/ATTACH][ATTACH]37381[/ATTACH]

You may very well be the proud owner of the "Only One". But before you get too excited, there are allot of them :)

Burton made many "One offs" for testing, pre-season summer boards, etc, etc. Back in the day we saw allot of these during the late spring and summer up at Mt Hood.

The handwritten specs on the top sheet are a pretty good indicator. I have a few , sold a few and we will see these floating around for many years to come.

Sometimes they have odd topsheets from unrelated board series or solid colors, Burton's favorite for test boards was a bold blue. Started with the Experimental Series in the mid 80s.

I have a board that has a top sheet from a longer board as an example. Some boards were even built with specific topsheet to make sure the Pro rider was always seen on his board EVEN if it wasn't that board. Example, One summer , one of Burton's biggest pros showed up at Timberline and he had a dozen "Test" boards of various shapes and sizes, they all had his topsheet on them. Wouldn't that confuse collectors in years to come ? I have one that didn't get used, brand new. Paid too much but it is pretty cool.

Bryan

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Bryan is correct...the "one-offs" I have from this year of pre-production all had side cuts of between 9.50 and 10.25 based on the length of 163.5 - I would guess that it is right at 10.0 or so, Burton always seemed to have side cuts on their decks like 9.89, 10.13, etc...

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Thanks for all the info. I didn't really think it was the only one, but given an extensive internet search and not being able to find any info was a little surprising in 2014. So, it sounds like it likely has a side but radius in the 10 range. It's a fun board to ride out east, quick turning, tight radius, not to stiff.

thank you

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The radius is not difficult to compute, I've done it on my boards and computed the same value as shown on the board.

I've got to leave for work right now, but I'll check back tonight and post the equations.

Measure the widest parts of the board, at the nose and tail where the board curves up. They should match or be really close.

Then measure the narrowest part in the middle. Measure in millimeters.

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I have an old Burton ultra prime 164. Teal top sheet with small robot between the inserts. Also says 2001. 6.4, 163.5.

Does anyone have the specs? Particularly the sidecut radius.

I feel like I have the only one in the world. I searched the Internet, forums, and can't find another one like it. Odd

thanks,

jack

[ATTACH]37380[/ATTACH][ATTACH]37381[/ATTACH]

Not even worthy for a wall hanger or bench. I remember a few who had extensive dental work from riding those boards..constant teeth chatter on icey slopes.

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Compute the radius this way:

Measure the running length, the distance from where the nose touches the floor to where the tail touches, -NOT- all the way from nose to tail.

Measure the widest width, this will be right where the nose or tail touches the floor.

Measure the waist width, the narrowest width in the middle of the board

Measure in millimeters

Side cut depth = (widest - narrowest) / 2

Half length = length / 2

So now we have L (half running length) and D (sidecut depth)

If your calculator uses radians: R = D + L / tan(PI - 2 * atan(L / D)) where PI is 3.14159265 (expand PI to your heart's content)

If your calculator uses degrees: R = D + L / tan(180 - 2 * atan(L / D))

My board has running length 1440mm, nose/tail width 234mm, waist width 190mm

So L is 1440/2 or 720, D is (234-190)/2 or 22, and R comes out as 11793mm, or 11.79m, which matches what is on the board

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  • 4 years later...

Funny, I have the same (or similar) board and was googling to get some info on it.  Went hard booting for the first time in almost 20 years the other day (and first day on this particular board).  Was really fun, but my setup seemed off.  I honestly don't remember how my last board was setup and haven't snowboarded much since 1999 anyway.  Went with 60/54 and bindings have a little bit of toe lift and heel lift.  My old Raichle 124s seemed to disintegrate a little bit w/ every run (plastic buckle release broke, linings on my liners and footbeds separating)

Clearly my equipment is holding me back from shredding LOL.  My technique is probably horrible and my knees don't bend very far anymore.

UP164.JPG

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