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Franken-Bomber Rat trap


neanderthal

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Hello

I have been riding for a while and for various reasons havent kept pace with the times as far as equipment. For example up until last year I rode raichle ski boots from 1998-1999 and was so happy they were not sorrels. A few yrs ago I went with the TD3 and WOW thanks Fin!!! but not having intec compatable boots meant bending over to strap in and thats getting harder for this fat old man.

Remedy - my FrankenBomber (please don't try this at home kids. It will ruin your warranty and probably kill you !)

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All I can say is its an amazing update and is working for me. I bet there would be a market for updated heel modules with Bomber bails and quality- Hint Hint. I even know a volunteer beta tester and by the way its off patent, not that that matters to my little home project

cheers

The enemy of good is better

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I've used rattraps alot, and like them for what they are; flexy. The spring loaded heel inherently allows a lot of movement of the boot both laterally and vertically, great for offpiste riding. Good option for using AT boots (I use them with Nordia SBH & TR9, old raichle snowboarders).

May require a little carving away mateial on the side of the AT boot heel to fit between the bail pivots.

The main caveat for me is the release lever requires bending down reaching below your boot all while lift up your heel which can be rather awkward. My Nitro stepins are much easier to release.

attachment.php?attachmentid=11566&stc=1&d=1204844953

I thought about swapping the rattrap onto the rear nitro to gain flex but they are more finicky to get in and out of (if the heel isn't lined up perfectly the bail can miss and need reset stepping in)

Edited by b0ardski
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I have been using the TD3-FB on the back and a TD3sw on the front foot and believe this is a pretty good pairing. In truth, there probably isnt as much range of motion with the FB as with the SW but the resistance in this limited range of motion is less. That works well for me as I find that I want a more stable front foot and more play in the rear. Never having ridden the standard TD3 I cannot comment on the amount that this has changed the flex of that configuration but I dont notice any great worsening of board feel and control from riding with 2 TD3sw bindings.

Why do this instead of just use the Burton binding as it is? I like the angle adjustment, suspension/dampening, canting and elevation of the TD bindings and that just wasnt there with the Burton. The elevation and canting have allowed laxer angles with the longer soles of ski boots. The canting also probably compensates for lack of flexibility in ski boots by placing my legs right where they need to be when riding with the steep angles I am used to 65F 55R. I just am in that gunfighter stance.

not all step in bindings are great and while much has been made about the leaning over to strap in with any of these bindings I actually think that the greater issue has to do with the mechanics of this action. What I mean to say is that it is far easier to hook the toe bail and stomp than it is to hook the heel bail and do whatever is required even if that also is stomp.

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I say this as someone who rode for many years on this monstrosity.

I postulate that a non stepin carrier type binding (heel lever) would be more comfortable to operate than the standard (toe lever) for this reason - though likely less secure post-12238-141842405446_thumb.jpg

It is clear from current threads that use of ski boots, or at least non intec compatible heels, think Northwave! (anyone want to part with a mondo 27-27.5 NW .900 or .950?) on plate bindings is prevalent and here to stay both at the low end with recreational carvers as well as with high end racers. There are myraid reasons - see the thread for discussion. I have a wife who grew up at the base of the Cottonwood Canyons and loves Alta. Until recently I couldnt justify a second set of boots dedicated to snowboarding. Fit is also an issue!

Recently I have acquired some intec compatible boots and am riding on the new TD3sw-si. These are amazing bindings without qualification!!! That said I am not ready to give up on my ski boots for certain things.

again my hope is to have a company produce a MODERN stepin for non intec boots - PLEASE Fin :)

until then this is a proof of concept/instructional.

Edited by neanderthol
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Drill out the 2 screw holes to make a slot

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This will allow you to use the holes on the TD3

I drilled and tapped additional holes to allow for better adjustment on the TD3 mounting plate. Man I wish the slot would have worked in the opposite direction like the TD3

There was one small issue - the spring comes down below the block as it moves with a camming action of the rattrap.

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I created a groove in the TD3 mounting plate to accommodate this but you could easily shim instead.

Sure hope the modifications aren't noticed if I have to send in for a warranty issue - just kidding!!!

Edited by neanderthol
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"again my hope is to have a company produce a MODERN stepin for non intec boots"

+1

I've seen the burton automats in use and they seem to work ok, easy in & out, but I'd be leery of booting out on heelside and disengaging. The rattrap and automat don't set right with the thinner DIN ski heel ledge (ok w/ thicker AT heels).

Curious if you've had issues w/ the fritzi stepin toe lever. Does it work with DIN skiboots?

Always thought a "DINtech heel could be the answer (or a pin in UPZ DIN heel blocks for the Nitros) but that limits it to sb boots.

I'm still toying with the idea of a Nitro style pin mod to ski boots but haven't found an easy way to do it with structural integrity.

I agree on the toe 1st stepin action, way easier on the fly or on uber steeps.

Edited by b0ardski
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"again my hope is to have a company produce a MODERN stepin for non intec boots"

+1

+1 to that. Does that mean it's now +2? Or if I'm really passionate about it can I + more than one? Can I +10 if I really agree? I feel somehow that a +1 doesn't exactly capture the intensity with which I care about this issue...

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b0ardski

I love your idea of a DINtech heel !That would solve the problem of needing 2 different boots, however, there would remain issues with the limited selection of boots to choose from.

Just curious - your boots would accept intech or FINtech heels what is better for you about the nitro system?

Tele riders put significant forces on their boots from only one connection. A similar system/connector may work well for the heel. This group offers aftermarket modifications to almost any boot.

http://casttouring.com/products-2/boot-conversion/

They are of course modifying the toe and we would need this done to the heel. That said a binding would need to be created de novo. While I see some potential for a superior system overall, standards changes are a BIG deal!

This brings me back to finding a way of making step in bindings for DIN heel boots.

the Fritzi step in toe lever I rode were Oxygen branded. These were very awkward to use because he heel had to be hooked first and then the toe the needed to be held high enough to clear the mechanism. Early on the springs worked well but later I had to help snap the toe lever down anyway making it no better than a standard toe levers - actually worse due to the weird position required to put the toe in. They worked with any boot I tried but generous clearances meant that there were sometimes issue with the boot rotating up to 5 degrees in the binding.

It is my understanding that the carrier system also had some issues but I havent ridden them so shouldt comment.

Ibex picked up the raceplates. Anyone know if they also have the molds and manufacturing materials for the step ins?

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Nitro pros & cons

simple;

as easy in as intec, step out means reaching lower to release than intech, but a slight flick is way easier than the ratrap cam lever, which also needs re-cocked every missed stepin, ie finicky.

I don't bend over at all and release them w/my poles.

durability;

no socket to wear out like f.a.s.t., no cable past the boot liner to fray or plastic:barf: cam lever to wear/flex/break inside the heel mechanism like fin/intec, (I had non-release issues w/used intec cam not pulling the pins all the way in which led to cable breakage) nitro is solid stainless pin welded to steel plate bolted to boot locking into steel latch.

Latch spring gets weak over decades of use requiring extra care to be sure the latch is fully set. absolutely zero maintenance in ten years heavy use.

availabilty;

'95-?99 manufacture means very hard to find, especially the boot heels. I've collected 6 pairs of binders and 3 sets of heels since '97, half used the rest NOS, total $spent $300. the rubber bootheel covers are irreplaceable and wear thru after a few seasons of walking to/from:(

the gasket between plate bottom & board and plate to center friction disc easily replaced w/ pond liner from home depot.

Something similar/better still made in Japan for the price of new td3sw stepin.

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Edited by b0ardski
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