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Prior 4WD vs Donek Axis?


Daneille

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I think the major difference between the Axis and 4X4 is how we weighted the powder vs carving performance. When I designed the Axis, I build a board that could go anywhere, but I looked at the frequency I felt many riders would see hard pack vs powder. I felt that the hardpack won out in most cases. As a result the Axis was designed to be a carving board that can do trees. I think the 4X4 is more of a powder/tree board for carvers. Chris might say it a bit differently, but the flex on the 4X4 is a bit softer than the Axis. This will lend itself more to powder than boiler plate.

I hope that helps a bit.

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I just got myself a donek axis. Haven't tried it yet, but I was hoping it would be a carver that wouldn't sink in the dumps we get lately in tahoe area. You know for those days that it keeps coming and they have no time to groom it and I need to make something out of my weekend while on the slopes. Sean's comments are suggesting that I was right by choosing the axis. I like this thread and look forward for more feedback from other members about these two boards, especially the axis.

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I rode Sean's Axis at the ECES at Sugarloaf last year and it stands out as a really fun board . Coming off a skinny,stiff raceboard it felt like a skateboard that would go anywhere. Tahoe is getting slammed with snow, huh ? The Axis 182 would do nicely. Do you happen to know my cousin Dora from Truckee's Local Hair Co ? She and husband Chris ride at Alpine Meadows alot.

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Actually I got an axis 177. I think that's the right size for me and the area I go to.

No I don't ride alpine meadows and don't know your cousin. I am mostly at Kirkwood (south), where I got a season pass for.

Did you have to adjust your bindings greatly to ride the axis? I ride 60/60 on my carving board and last night when mounting bindings on the axis, I felt like I had to go 53/53 to be closer to the edge as a starting point (mondo 27.5). Not sure if changing the angles to that extend would impact the ride negatively.

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I got the 167 axis based on sean's recommendations and I like it so far. I tried it for the first time in tahoe a couple weeks ago and it pretty much lived up to what sean had said earlier. It can definitely go anywhere but I had trouble in the deep powder. It was also a combination of me just not being able to ride powder well and the board. On the pack and crud, it did well.

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kam, Danielle is a hairdresser from Reno and rides the North Lake/Mt Rose. If yer axis is 21.5 cm wide and you run 27.5s, just set it up for no heel/toe drag and don't sweat the numbers. Maybe 1.5-2.0 cm back for powder with a wider stance. check out the Hardboots in the Pow posts. You guys out west are killin' me.;)

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Kamran,

I'm riding my burton speed (also 21.5 waist) at even lower angles - 50/45. On my Palmer I go even lower (I think 43/38).

I guess it's a matter of personal preference. I try to ride the lowest angles that I can get away with...

I can carve quite well at those angles and it helps me in the pow with the ballance.

Hagen.

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Willy and Hagen,

thanks for the advise. bindings close to the edge is what I'm feeling right too. If axis proves to be good to me, I have to let go of one of the oxygens and put it up for sale.

Never been to Mt Rose. is it carving friendly?

Hagen, I look forward to carve with you again. I am planning to be in Kirkwood on sunday and monday, let me know if you'll be there and we get you a cheaper lift ticket then.

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Will most likely ride Sugarbowl on Sunday and have to go back home after that - we don't get Monday off...

But I'll try to do another day trip or two to Kirkwood this season. I'm hoping to make it there for the Prior demo day on the 29th.

Hagen.

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I am a BIG fan of the Prior. I have ridden both and the Axis is not very damp. What I love about the Prior is that it rocks in the powder and trees and I can also carve it on the groom. The axis is less of a powder and trees board in my opinion. The Prior really is the best of both worlds. I also weigh 235 and like to drive my boards hard.

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Originally posted by Neil Gendzwill

I ride a 21.5 waist with 45/40 angles on 27.5 Raichles, no problem.

Im just curious..how do you pull this? Ive been riding a board with about a 23cm waist, and Im a 27 in suzukas, and the bare minimum on the back is 43...

what am I missing?

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D-Sub, I think, let me repeat that, I think, the SCR is different between your board and theirs. Give 2 boards of the same length, a smaller side cut will "eat up" more board material as you travel along the board towards the center. Versus a larger SCR will "eat up" less board material. Therefore, the width of the a board at the binding, with a small SCR will be smaller than a board with a larger SCR. Again, I am no expert...but it makes sense to me...but that doesn't mean its right...

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Originally posted by fishrising

the width of the a board at the binding, with a small SCR will be smaller than a board with a larger SCR.

Yes, although I'm not sure how big the difference would be. No time to shake the rust off my trig to figure it out.

D-sub, how are you determining what the angles are? Do you just look at it, or do you test? I mount up the board, put the boots in and then roll it on edge to check how far over it will lay before something hits. 90 degrees, with the current setup. I'll have to re-evaluate when the AM shows up.

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Originally posted by fishrising

D-Sub, I think, let me repeat that, I think, the SCR is different between your board and theirs. Give 2 boards of the same length, a smaller side cut will "eat up" more board material as you travel along the board towards the center. Versus a larger SCR will "eat up" less board material. Therefore, the width of the a board at the binding, with a small SCR will be smaller than a board with a larger SCR. Again, I am no expert...but it makes sense to me...but that doesn't mean its right...

thats a good point, actually. didnt think about that aspect. the scr on this board is probably pretty small

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Originally posted by Neil Gendzwill

D-sub, how are you determining what the angles are? Do you just look at it, or do you test? I mount up the board, put the boots in and then roll it on edge to check how far over it will lay before something hits. 90 degrees, with the current setup. I'll have to re-evaluate when the AM shows up.

yeah, except this doesnt take some factors into consideration, right? snow depth (you dig way deeper in fresh groomed) and board flex...seems to me if the board is flexed theres more chance of hitting?

I just look at it from the top and try to get things centered and as close to the edge without hanging over

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Set it on a bench so that it is only supported between the boots. That will take side cut out of it. I think if nothing drags when the rig is tilted over 90 degrees in that situation, nothing is gonna drag. One thing to watch though - all the hardware hanging off the back of the boot (drink&drive lever and whatnot). That can catch in soft snow conditions even if the heel doesn't hit.

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I think the major difference between the Axis and 4X4 is how we weighted the powder vs carving performance. When I designed the Axis, I build a board that could go anywhere, but I looked at the frequency I felt many riders would see hard pack vs powder. I felt that the hardpack won out in most cases. As a result the Axis was designed to be a carving board that can do trees. I think the 4X4 is more of a powder/tree board for carvers. Chris might say it a bit differently, but the flex on the 4X4 is a bit softer than the Axis. This will lend itself more to powder than boiler plate.

Thanks, that is what I was wondering about :D I use this board as my carving deck. I really don't enjoy too narrow or flat back ends. My angles are high 40's. For a powder day the shorter fatter SuperModel is my choice. I am 5'3 and 120's# so I want to make sure I can pressure the edge through the carve.

Daneille

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Okay I don't know about the 4x4 since I haven't tried it, but yesterday I tried my axis for the first time. I took it to the grooms and also to soft snow (no pure untouched powder) and it carves really good on both surfaces, although I must acknowledge that I haven't found my sweet spot on this board yet. the angles didn't seem to be a problem for carving (53/53..on other boards I use 60/60) But I am pretty sure I need to displace both bindings at least 1 centimeter to the back to get the maximum leverage. I am used to narrow boards, but again I noticed no delay in edge to edge transition and everything went smooth. The flex is surely softer than my proton but it still feels stiff enough for a full carving experience.

just my 0.2 cents

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