LambertoMI Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Sorry for the bizarre and odd questions. I think the multiple burton plate setups are ok, but the bails are smaller and the springs are dying. So, I have burton rat trap bindings. The toe bails are getting weaker with the springs. Are there any fixes (other than the obvious, get some real bindings dude)? Can the spring be fixed or tightened. Second question. I am still rocking the old, old, old school reactors. Love the boots. They are nice and stiff and comfy for me. So, I am not ready to upgrade to fintect heals as this is new boots, new bindings...etc. Do the BOL parts adapt to burton plate bases? Has anyone ever tried this crazy idea? Third and final question. How good are the new step ins (BOL or F2). The mechanism always scared me for fear that is you do not get a positive lock, you could release mid turn. The crappy rat traps cannot pop out as once they are on, they are on. Unless a total binding failure. Thanks in advance for your insights. Lamberto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTS-V Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I rock the old school Reactors myself.....fit perfectly..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) Hi Lamberto, The answer really is to get some new bindings. Your old bindings don't owe you anything, and you'll be playing with fire if you try to extend their service. With the money you have saved by riding the same old bindings and boots (and presumably board) for so many years, you can treat yourself to new bindings. What is more expensive, new hardware on your board, or new hardware in your ankle or leg? Intec-style step-ins work great, I've been using them for 10 years. Just visually inspect that both pins are engaged and off you go. Certain snow/air temperatures can cause a problem with snow sticking to the soles of your boots, but I think the convenience the rest of the time outweighs this. Just scrape your sole on the heel receiver. But this is probably a moot point as you don't want to upgrade your boots, and that's fine if they're really working for you. It is not true what you say about the old Burton "rat trap" bindings. There is a way out of any over-center cam device like that. It can happen during a hard impact to the bottom of the board, like during very heavy chatter or landing a jump flat, and especially if the the bindings are sized too loose or too tight. Step-ins, on the other hand, if properly clicked in, are much more secure. It would take a much more catastrophic event to release your boot from step-ins. EDIT - unless by "rat trap" you mean the old Burton step-ins that slammed closed like an actual rat trap. I'm not too familiar with those, aside from painfully getting my finger caught in one at a snowboard shop once. Edited February 1, 2012 by Jack Michaud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LambertoMI Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Jack, Thanks for your comments. I think the conclusion is obvious. I have these step ins that slam shut and the older cheaper ones as well. They are the ones that seem to be getting tired. They have been great bindings and have never come off. At 200 pounds I can put some pressure on them. At any rate, if I go the new binding route, I was between the step ins and regular bindings. Step ins are so nice. I did have TD-1s at one point, and I hated them. Very heavy, tight and rough on the board. I never liked the feel or the setup really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sic t 2 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 So, I have burton rat trap bindings. The toe bails are getting weaker with the springs. Are there any fixes (other than the obvious, get some real bindings dude)? Can the spring be fixed or tightened. Lamberto I really recommend getting new bindings. however, if you are stuck and want a pair of Burton Mouse Traps I'll mail you a set for freebees. or the parts you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LambertoMI Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 This is the other two pair I have. Sic, what parts do you have? I am in NY the 14th - 16th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Ahh, ok, those are not the toe-lever bindings I thought you were mentioning. My finger hurts just looking at that picture! ;) Sounds like you need some new springs, but still those bails must be approaching their service life. TD3s with the yellow (soft) e-ring ride nothing at all like TD1s. Or you can take it even further with Sidewinders. Of course if you want step-ins, this means new boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sic t 2 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) This is the other two pair I have. Sic, what parts do you have? I am in NY the 14th - 16th. I'm at zip 10925 Will be at Mountain Creek Friday. Will be at Hunter Saturday. you know.... now I remember.... I thought the bindings held me in too loose. there is a simple fix. you can adjust it so it won't "mouse trap" anymore (ie; its too tight to close). and it requires a hand push to get it over the "cam hump" (much like a conventional toe piece). so... both bindings are adjusted tight. the front I have to push down on the lever to get it to lock in. no problem. because (after front is locked in) its nearly impossible to reach the rear cam to push it down manually I just REVERSED the binding so that the lever is up front now. that makes it easy to reach down and snap shut. I have experience on bomber TD1's now and I can say that the way those bindings are configured its easier to clamp your rear foot in (with manual push on lever) than it is to snap the TD1 toepiece shut. or maybe its the same at most. either way. it works and holds you in quite snug actually. probably equal to the most common burton hardboot binding. yeah, yeah, they were really not all that bad to ride. however, they just struck me as frail. that played with my head constantly. now the board is a real POS. anybody want a "fold the nose" Alp ? free for just shipping cost. I've had enough of that thing. ((btw, what I mean by adjusting the bindings tight is moving the heal and toepiece closer together. the mousetrap mechanism won't have enough spring strength to close the binding on its own. just give the lever a little hand assist and it will lock down snugly. and hold you in pretty darn good.)) Edited February 2, 2012 by sic t 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan ok Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I am looking for old burton step in rat trap bindings and parts. I will try to pm directly Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinpa Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 oooohohhhhhhh I LOVE those old bindings..... got 3 sets of them... each a different model.... and I'm only about 140lbs and don't ride to super aggressively.... and those than know me, know I LOVE old gear (ok, please guys.... please be nice.... if you are insting on picking on me, then I will ask you to fund my "new" equipment...... ) I just got a "NEW" Ultra Prime at NICE (Schweitzer's carving event in Idaho) and could REALLY use another set of bindings.... let me know if you ever need to get rid of any....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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