Freeride Metal Board for Soft Boots

[BXFR70]

I wanted some opinions, I am on a metal BX board this year, and I really like it. For me, and what I ride, I like the metal a lot better than traditional glass construction. I like the dampness, edgehold, it is softer than my glass boards but still has pop, and just works basically.

Here is the question:<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

<O:pWould a metal construction benefit a more all around freeride board, basically some taper, bigger nose, good flotation, but being able to be ridden anywhere. End goal would be for say at a resort, you ride some powder, in trees, and such, then for the bottom third have to ride groomers, just an all around board with maybe slight bias towards powder/back country.

<O:pWould a metal construction help or not be worth it, or asking for trouble in case of damage with rocks or trees off groomed stuff?<O:p</O:p

</O:p</O:p

[MUD]

Considering what is available from a Dupraz to a Tanker (or Donek offerings) and everything in between and outside. I would say a metal board would be overkill for this application.

[BXFR70]

Yea, I was not sure, I rode the metal board in fresh snow the other day, fresh snow at a PA ski area, so some decent snow with clumpy snow, and no real powder, and it was just a lot better ride than any of the glass boards I have ridden.

For this purpose right now, I ride an older Burton Triumph, it is fairly damp, has some taper, and has a surfy feel to it compared to carve/bx boards, but still rides good on groomed stuff. its just getting old, not much edge left, it used to be my every day board.

[Rob Stevens]

That's about all you need for the riding you describe. I have a 171 and am 220 / 6'1".

It's the longest one they make, but if you're lighter / shorter, some of thier other lengths could be good.

Apparently, Kessler is making an FR board now. I bet that one would be good. Good and $'ey.

[KingCrimson]

What BX board are you riding? Most if not all current BX boards have somewhere in the neighborhood of 2 cm of taper and rockered noses. I would imagine that they would be more than sufficient for whatever amount of pow you get in PA.. I'm assuming if your board is metal it has those traits..

I think rock and tree damage that is fatal to a metal board would also be fatal to a glass one..so it's more a question of how expensive of a board you can stomach trashing. In the case of Donek it's like a 50% difference.

Basically what I'm saying is..If you're ready to spend the money on another metal, why not buy a new metal BX board as your dedicated groomer board, and beat on the one you already have since you know you like the ride on hard stuff..and in the soft I can't imagine your pow is deep enough to cause you any problems

[scrapster]

Considering "freeride" can range from softy carving to pow riding (and even some park), I guess it may come down to what conditions you ride most. I know Coiler has a metal softboot board in R&D right now, but it looks to be on the carving/BX end of the spectrum. Not sure if metal is necessary for pow, or whether it would be a liability in the backcountry. I'd guess it's a "no go" for any significant park stuff.

For east coast, I'd say a BX'ish board would be the best all 'rounder. And if you like metal, go for it.

[xy9ine]

That's about all you need for the riding you describe. I have a 171 and am 220 / 6'1".

It's the longest one they make, but if you're lighter / shorter, some of thier other lengths could be good.

i concur. i rode a burner for a day earlier this year in mixed conditions (fresh to hardpack) and found it to be a surprisingly capable all mountain softboot ripper that would fill the above requirements nicely. an off the shelf, readily available stick from a major manufacturer - imagine that? actually sparked an interest in softboot carving. neat.

[BXFR70]

I am on a Prior BX this year.. so it has all of those traits, it is my 'everyday' board for here in the east.

the triumph is what I use in the trees/snow, and if I go out west to ride, if there is snow, I generally do not ride groomers. also, when I go to NY or VT to hike, or ride resorts during/after snow, I would use the "freeride" board.

by "freeride" I basically meant all around more geared towards snow/powder though, instead of carve/bx.

hope that makes sense.

I was wondering if a metal board would make a difference in all around riding like that.

it is a lot of money for a board I would not use as much, it is probably not worth it, just wondering how much difference it would make.

are the tankers and the long boards good in powder because of their length/long nose, or because of their nose design? as some boards are.

thanks again.

btw, I will have to check out the burner. I am selling a Custom X now mainly because I like riding with the Bomber Power Plates, I like the cant, and it feels better, and they don't work with the channel as you know.

[scrapster]

Understood. I wouldn't worry about metal for that type of freeriding. I'd look at something like the Donek Nomad, one of Prior's more pow-oriented sticks (Fissile, Spearhead), or try out the Jones Hovercraft.

I find that I don't even need to go long (at least for east coast pow and trees), if it has a good nose and shape. I use a 158 SG Soul for those purposes. Nimble, versatile and great float. Good luck!

[MUD]

are the tankers and the long boards good in powder because of their length/long nose, or because of their nose design? as some boards are.

thanks again.

Pretty much just the size for the pre-rockered ones.... They also have a nice big sidecut which is really nice.

[BXFR70]

thanks, length for me anyway, is no really about float, unless you meant long in the 180 + range...

I just like riding a board in the 170 range. I am 5'9"ish 220 lbs, and pretty strong, I used to lift a lot more, now, not quite as crazy, but still plenty strong. shorter boards, like in the lower 160 range feel funny to me, hard to describe as to why.

I mainly asked, because the metal board was just so much different, and even though its softer, just works somehow, would be my way to describe it, i don't mean its "soft" just easily softer than my Donek Razor, and maybe slightly softer than the Saber.

anyone ride any of the Donek or Prior's that are more powder orientated?

also, anything aside from the Salomon Burner that is more mainstream and readily available with standard inserts, and not crazy graphics or a base with a ton of colors, I would rather just plain black if possible...

thanks again for the discussion/replies

[philw]

Powder is all a bit more subtle and gentle: your nose doesn't vibrate; your edge hold is not important. I don't think metal would any advantage there. Equally I can't see it being a problem.

I don't think that rare event of a breakage would be much worse with metal except from the perspective of your wallet.

I think the issue may be... you're probably not going to find a stock board suited to back country stuff which also uses metal, because the demand probably isn't there. Most people ride softie boards and have never heard of metal, and so whilst the fashion's in aerial ballet you're unlikely to find a product designed for speed.

[BXFR70]

Powder is all a bit more subtle and gentle: your nose doesn't vibrate; your edge hold is not important. I don't think metal would any advantage there. Equally I can't see it being a problem.

I don't think that rare event of a breakage would be much worse with metal except from the perspective of your wallet.

I think the issue may be... you're probably not going to find a stock board suited to back country stuff which also uses metal, because the demand probably isn't there. Most people ride softie boards and have never heard of metal, and so whilst the fashion's in aerial ballet you're unlikely to find a product designed for speed.

very true,

regarding the last point, a metal "freeride" board would be built by Donek or Prior using an existing shape with metal construction, in the Donek case, 32% price increase, so probably not really worth it.

I say mainstream assuming just glass, no metal, but also because I will not ride this as much, I may be able to find something on sale or such.

[MUD]

thanks, length for me anyway, is no really about float, unless you meant long in the 180 + range...

Yeah, I was talking about the 182, 187, 192, 200 tankers.... depending on your foot size.

[leeho730]

Kessler ride...

[BlueB]

I think the issue may be... you're probably not going to find a stock board suited to back country stuff which also uses metal,

There is one, along OP's request - Elan Vertigo.

My little darling, Nidecker Proto, has some titanal, but not the full sheet.

Prior would build you any of his shapes with titanal, if you asked him nicely (and payed extra).

I'm not sure, though, if I would ride full titanal for hardcore freeride...

[icarve]

If you are looking for metal like feel in a free ride board look at the carbon construction Doneks. They are damp (and very light) and can be made in wider widths than the metal boards can. I don't know if it would make any difference in a powder board, but it sure works well in the incline 160 that I have. E-mail one of the board builders and ask them if metal or the carbon construction would make any difference in a powder board.

[norm]

Considering "freeride" can range from softy carving to pow riding (and even some park), I guess it may come down to what conditions you ride most. I know Coiler has a metal softboot board in R&D right now, but it looks to be on the carving/BX end of the spectrum. Not sure if metal is necessary for pow, or whether it would be a liability in the backcountry. I'd guess it's a "no go" for any significant park stuff.

For east coast, I'd say a BX'ish board would be the best all 'rounder. And if you like metal, go for it.

I have ridden one of Bruce's (earlier) freeride R&D boards both with and without powerplates several times now, but I have been holding off responding to this thread because I had not yet ridden it in powder (until this weekend).... so here are my thoughts (short version).

A)

this board rails like no other freeride (my previous "benchmark" was the Elan Vertigo - very nice bx board)

you will get so much edge that ;

1) you will really want powerplates to help minimize overhang, among other things

2) 24.5 (for my size 9.5US feet at 20/30 angles) is still too narrow - I think I would order a 26W

3) you will ride crud with all the advantages of a (real) metal carving board.

B)

in powder, it rides like a freeride ...what can i say. It has a shorter sidecut than a BX board, it floats, and its soft enough to noodle through anything when you dont have something real to push against. Keep in mind I don't ride a lot of powder :(

I personally would not spend $ on this if powder is all that was to be had, but if there's any riding that requires an edge, I cannot describe the feeling that you get with this all mountain (and powerplate) combo....... hold on , I guess I can,... its called being in hardboots (well almost) :)

...hope this helps!

Norm.

General specs (from memory)

164

24.5W

7.5M nose

9M mid

other specs...ask Bruce.

[BXFR70]

I have ridden one of Bruce's (earlier) freeride R&D boards both with and without powerplates several times now, but I have been holding off responding to this thread because I had not yet ridden it in powder (until this weekend).... so here are my thoughts (short version).

A)

this board rails like no other freeride (my previous "benchmark" was the Elan Vertigo - very nice bx board)

you will get so much edge that ;

1) you will really want powerplates to help minimize overhang, among other things

2) 24.5 (for my size 9.5US feet at 20/30 angles) is still too narrow - I think I would order a 26W

3) you will ride crud with all the advantages of a (real) metal carving board.

B)

in powder, it rides like a freeride ...what can i say. It has a shorter sidecut than a BX board, it floats, and its soft enough to noodle through anything when you dont have something real to push against. Keep in mind I don't ride a lot of powder :(

I personally would not spend $ on this if powder is all that was to be had, but if there's any riding that requires an edge, I cannot describe the feeling that you get with this all mountain (and powerplate) combo....... hold on , I guess I can,... its called being in hardboots (well almost) :)

...hope this helps!

Norm.

General specs (from memory)

164

24.5W

7.5M nose

9M mid

other specs...ask Bruce.

thanks, I am on a Prior BX as my every day board in the east, and it works well for its role, not an out west powder board though, but in "powder" here in PA, it has been fine, rides a bit like you described the Coiler