NateW Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 How many threads of engagement should there be for the bolts that go into the inserts, to hold the bindings to the board? Fin, what kind of thread lock do you use on the bolts that hold the bails to the toe blocks? And would the same stuff work for mounting bolts? Many thanks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 I'm uncomfortable with less than 3 turns, and like 5 even better, but that means custom cutting bolts for some boards. I also do not believe in any loctite, silicone grease, thread tape or anything else on the fasteners. Just make sure the threads are in good shape and all mating faces are clean and dry (sand or dirt can be a real problem). OK, now I'm ready for the flames. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrCR Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 I like 3+ turns and go with the longest bolt for each particular board that you can, but make sure you don't 'bottom out' when tightening. IMHO a locking washer of any sort is more important that using teflon tape for example. I'm using a wave lock washer in addition to a flat with my setup right now. I believe using belleville washers are also common too. (above is in reference to mounting, not bails) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 Nate, Well, what you are asking is actually two different measurements. There is the distance the M6 screw should protrude from below the binding and then there is how much thread engagement (or turns) you should get. From year of making the TD series and ANSI information on this depth, the M6 screw should protrude 6 to 6.5mm below the binding. Don't forget, that is from the surface that ends up "clamped" or flat on the board. For example the TD2 center disk is about .5mm "above" the E-ring surface. Then when installed the E-ring is compressed to the same plane as the Center Disk. These other guys are about right, I like to see AT LEAST three full turns of the screw for engagement. And more is always better. Best way to determine this is to turn the screw OUT while pushing down slightly on the wrench. You'll then hear an audible "click" when the screw just passes over the first thread. Stop. Now start turning the screw in and count the turns. We do use Loc-tite #242 (blue) on the threads of the Shoulder Bolt and don't forget, a little grease on the shoulder makes the action nice and smooth. We DO NOT recommend thread lock on the screws into the board. To be honest, we do not see these loosen up on the TD2 due to the Pre-load you induce with the E-ring. Acts like a lock washer. Loc-tite is a petroleum product and can eat away at your board. As long as you have clean threads with good engagement (see above), and torque down the screws you should be fine. If they keep coming loose there is something wrong with the system. Good torque on the screws is why we had custom 5mm Hex Head screws made for the TD2, we found you could not get good torque with anything smaller or even with a Phillips Head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 How much torque should we be applying to the mounting bolts (bottom plate to board) and the base plate bolts (base plate to bottom plate)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Houghton Posted December 16, 2004 Report Share Posted December 16, 2004 And that is exactly why I am against any Teflon tape or synthetic grease. Installation torque is a measure of clamping force that depends on the friction developed by the threads and the insert. As soon as Fin says "30 inch pounds" someone will use their additives on the bolt, and strip the insert because the clamping pressure is increased so much without the normal friction. I would have to say the best instruction is "dry, clean bolts in good condition should be installed hand tight using the appropriate size of Allen wrench". Really all you need is enough clamping force to overcome the potential to loosen when the parts are flexed or vibrated. The biggest problem is people insist on bolting dirty parts together and then wonder why they come loose. More torque is not the answer. Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry, and use good quality hardware, you will not have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skategoat Posted December 17, 2004 Report Share Posted December 17, 2004 Okay, okay, I'll hand torque. But too late on the thread-lok. <G> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csquared Posted December 17, 2004 Report Share Posted December 17, 2004 The pitch on an M6 screw is 1 mm. Therefore, 5 turns equals 5 mm projection below the lowest point on the binding. This is hard to estimate with bindings that have elastomeric contact media but it will let you estimate the screw length needed without screwing the binding to the board. I like 5 turns and have spent time cutting down screws to obtain it (but this was while Bruce was playing around with deeper inserts a few years ago on his Bomber boards). I have ordered M6 screws from Spae-Naur. I can corroborate Fin: a good clean mount with TD's generally never seems to see any screw withdrawal. I get tired of checking for loose screws because they never seem to have budged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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