professional installation of Fintec on UPZ

[freezy]

Howdy folks.

Been lurking and learning for some time, preparing for my inevitable jump into hardboots. The stars have aligned and this season will be it.

I wanna go Fintec heels on UPZ's new ATB (All Terrain Boots). Initially I was planning on the 225's because I had the impression the Fintecs were a straightforward installation on those boots (meaning I could do it myself even though I'm not mechanically gifted). Given the choice though, I'd rather go the ATB route and get the Fintecs professionally installed.

Where/how can I get Fintecs installed by someone who knows what they're doing? How much will it cost?

Planning on being a freecarver; easy-entry/learning curve. Will try to end up on a Prior AWD a little later in the season. Until then, I'll just throw the F2 Intec RS plates (already bought) on a Ride Timeless. No need to rush, I expect this passion to last a lifetime and I wanna do things right (for me, as everyone differs and soft "hardboots" are not to everyone's preference).

Thanks.

-Nate

P.S. Will be calling Kirkwood my home mountain this season. Woohoo!!

[Corey]

Have any friends that do woodworking? It's no different than putting T-nuts in wood. There's a very good chance that no ski/snowboard shop is even going to understand what you're doing let alone how to do it. What's scary is that most shops won't admit they don't know what they're doing and may screw something up.

Confirm that the ATB toe-pieces will fit in the bindings before ordering them. I talked to Dan Yoja of UPZ about this a few months ago, he didn't think they'd fit in Bomber TD3 bindings.

[Ear dragger]

I'm with him, if there is a question of the toe piece fitting, then go with the rc10's (or the rc8) and get the softest tongue. I assume you want some movement. ride timeless is great ( i ride one for tress, etc). although, you should pick up something with a square tail (used). the ride is going to put you at some low angles, it may teach some bad habits, which you don't want. just a suggestion, and other people may differ. pick up a glass coiler or a donek, or whatever. glad you are getting into carving!!

[Ear dragger]

if you wanna have some play in you're interface, step in's may not be for you. You can always change later on

[ursle]

The process is not difficult.

You need the new bolts and t-nuts in hand.(they come with the fintecks)

Remove the old heels and using one of those bolts drive the old t-nuts (the ones in the boots)out from the bottom of the boot with a hammer.

Place the new t-nuts in the holes left from the removal of the junk ones, I use a drill to draw the t-nuts tight.

Place new heels, put blue locktite on the threads of the bolt tighten and you're done.(check tightness after first use)

I will do the install for you but shipping will easily be 50$ as I'm in NH

[Corey]

Just thought of something: Don't the new UPZs come with T-nuts already in the heel?

[Ray]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe all current UPZ models including the ATB are already T-Nutted. My RC10 sure had the T-Nuts installed already…

[ursle]

Mine are 3+ and I don't have a new shell in hand, one look inside will tell, are they actually t-nutted, can you see the top of the t-nut, is it steel and thick or is it under the plastic(nylon) out of site and is it a thin alloy?

If it's out of site I would drive one out and inspect it.

[freezy]

Wow, awesome help guys!

Corey, I will definitely make sure to check that the toe pieces fit my bindings before shelling out the cash. Thanks for the heads-up! If there's any doubt, I'll stick with the 225s.

Ursle, I had no idea the process is that simple. I will look into doing it myself (should the toe pieces mentioned above work out) but if I get scared off, I *will* drop you a message. What's a little bit extra cash to make sure everything is correct after dropping so many hundreds on boots alone. Not complaining though, just truly, truly *!*grateful!*! that I too can -finally- enjoy this ride!

Thanks again all, your help has been priceless.

- Nate

[Bora20]

My RC-10 from last year didn't come with t-nuts installed. They did come with the step-in Snowpro heels though.

Installation:

- remove 4 screws holding on factory heel

- widen holes with a drill bit 1 size larger than outer diameter of t-nut barrel

- insert 4 t-nuts and thread in screws

- tighten down screws while pushing t-nuts with fingers on inside until fully seated in plastic

- remove 4 screws

- install step-in heel and 4 screws

- tighten and adjust bindings

[0815-fahrer]

the new shells are T-nutted. so no big deal.

The only thing you really must do is really crank them one time, because although they are T-nutted, those nuts are not driven all the way flat to where they should be. (check from the inside with a flashlight!!)

A hint is to take a longer, metric m5 allen head bolt and some fitting washers not to damage the heel when cranking. No locktite there yet!

Actually you will pull the nuts in place, nicely aligned with the heel holes, although some other people still prefer beating them the hell in place from above

Apply locktite only with the final (shipped with heels) bolts (I assume they are M5 metric too) get mounted.

If you dont directly jam them, the T-nuts will set while riding, the heel will loosen up, and locktite makes that you cannot fasten easily

[Sinecure]

If you want to venture up to the north shore or down to the Bay Area, I'd be happy to help you out with this. It should be really simple, but I can understand your hesitation if you've not done it before. I have lots of spare t-nuts in my tool box if needed.

The other thing you'll probably want to do once things are installed is to heat the liners. I doubt the UPZ have a channel in the shell for the release cable, so molding the liners will create a channel in the liner so you don't get a pressure point. I know some north shore shops that will do it for you if necessary.

I hope you got out and enjoyed the best opening weekend I can remember. The snow was incredible.

I'm at Alpine Meadows most weekends.

[0815-fahrer]

The other thing you'll probably want to do once things are installed is to heat the liners. I doubt the UPZ have a channel in the shell for the release cable, so molding the liners will create a channel in the liner so you don't get a pressure point. I know some north shore shops that will do it for you if necessary.

Guys, Do NOT "bake" those Flow liners !!!!

It has body temperature (steadily) adapting gel-material inside. Not the famous bake foam.

They are not like Intuition or Thermoflex liners. you will ruin the flows them if you handle them like intuitions or deeluxes. 50-60°C for molding maxx is what I heard, said inofficially from a very official source

I will countercheck asap and let you know on this channel.

[Bora20]

Guys, Do NOT "bake" those Flow liners !!!!

It has body temperature (steadily) adapting gel-material inside. Not the famous bake foam.

They are not like Intuition or Thermoflex liners. you will ruin the flows them if you handle them like intuitions or deeluxes. 50-60°C for molding maxx is what I heard, said inofficially from a very official source

I will countercheck asap and let you know on this channel.

Use a hair dryer then, it doesn't go past 50-60°C, which would be similar to the Intuition heater in ski/snowboard shops.