Alpinepunk Superswede 191 vs RadAir Tanker 200

[Helvetico]

Got the 200 from a year or two back (no rocker). Floats over practically anything, but a little too wide at 25.5 for hardboots and rather unwieldly on-piste. Videos of the Superswede and memories of my 24.5 cm Tanker 182 have me thinking pretty hard about buying that woody yesterday.

Anyone ridden the both of them?

[D.T.]

I've had the opportunity to compare a prototype Superswede to my '03 Tanker 192cm (the white board) using softboots with flow bindings. The Superswede was definitely more carving oriented, while the Tanker was more versatile.

Let me know, specifically, what question you have and I will do my best to provide more insight.

[Helvetico]

How does it do in powder? My Tanker 200 is next to unsinkable, but it's a chore on the pistes. I'm thinking of trading it for a newer rockered model to only be used on powder, and using the Superswede as a hardboot AM board.

Thoughts?

[Mats]

Hi Helvetico,

In powder I think The SS works just beutiful. It´s a big wide board with a lot of setback so it floats and the rear sinks as it should. But it´s not a powderboard for tight trees of course ;-) For more open faces it´s a blast to ride. Get youself a little fish or a smaller full rockerboard (as you wrote) and you have a complete quiver for 90% of all conditions.

/Mats@alpinepunk

[tpalka]

I can't compare the two, never having ridden a Tanker. But I have been riding the SuperSwede for a few months last season. It's a great freeride board, and works very well for carving. I use it as an all-mountain board, but it's unwieldy in the bumps. Only had a chance to try it on one big powder day and without more setback the board didn't really float up. Next time I'd move my bindings back more, and that'd probably work better. In summary: for carving open slopes it's a great board -- and pretty too :)

tom.

[D.T.]

My first thought is that the Tanker would perform better in the powder than the PROTOTYPE SS. Like Tom said, I think you would have to mount the binding all the way back on the SS. I personally prefer not to have to move bindings when conditions change. With my 192 Tanker, once I dialed in the binding position, I never changed it, no matter what the conditions were or where on the mountain I was riding.

We are supposed to get a bunch of snow this week. If the conditions look right on Sunday, I'll try to get a direct comparison of the PROTOTYPE SS and Tanker.

[Mats]

Hi guys,

If you mount your bindings centered you´re aprox 8,5 cm rear of center of board. Both the sidecut and the stance is setup for riding powder. I don´t change anything for powriding.

/Mats

[BlueB]

That sounds slightly more then on the Tanker 192...

On the Tank, I fiddled with back and forward setups for carving and pow/chop. Eventually I decided that the centered worked the best for both applications. The 192 is 24.2 at the waist, so very similar ro Swede, which I never tried. I love it for softer snow carving and chop busting. It's ok for pow, but not as good as more pow specific boards. Managable in the bumps on medium pitch. I do not recommend it for steep bumps or trees.

[tpalka]

I had my bindings all the way forward -- that was the best carving setup for me. And that's probably why I felt the need to set them back a bit for powder days...

[Randy T.]

I own a Swede and a 200 Tanker and I'll probably sell the Tanker this year because it's not going to be ridden anymore thanks to the Swede.

The Tanker is fun in the pow but I don't have access to tons of open bowl to ride so I use my Dynastar 4807 more than the Tanker on the pow days.

I like the Swede because of how versatile it is as an all mountain all conditions board. It did good in the pow and carves very well.