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donek metal axxess


energyrail

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I've built a few metal AX boards this season. There is a 172 in the Bomber Demo Fleet and It made it to SES and ECES.

I have thinner metal on order, but it is only necessary on lengths shorter than 167. I can go wider on a 172 or longer with what I have in stock.

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Any body have picture of an axxess. I'm wondering how the tail looks, how turned up it is?

I don't have a photo for you, but I've included an engineering drawing of the two tail bends back to back. The metal AX is about .2in (5mm) taller than the fiberglass version.

post-60-141842309856_thumb.jpg

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I'm confused is that the tail decambered that far or is that the nose?

That is the tail. Decambering both tip and tail is important. If you decamber the shovel without decambering the tail, the board will tend to grip more in the tail than the shovel when in a slide, causing the board to turn up hill. Without dimensions, it does look rather large. The decamber begins 5in (13cm) before the tail would begin to turn up on a traditional shape.

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what is the weight difference between metal and glass boards. is it significant.

anybody see anything wrong with a 177 metal ax with a 225 waist instead of 215. with the same sidecut radius as the original narrow one.

Or should one go 235.

then it would basically be a ec board with metal and new school shape and such things. Maybe sean has something like in the works.

Sean what is the max width you can go with a metal board in a 177cm?

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what is the weight difference between metal and glass boards. is it significant.

anybody see anything wrong with a 177 metal ax with a 225 waist instead of 215. with the same sidecut radius as the original narrow one.

Or should one go 235.

then it would basically be a ec board with metal and new school shape and such things. Maybe sean has something like in the works.

Sean what is the max width you can go with a metal board in a 177cm?

I've never had an reason to weigh the metal boards. As we don't produce Identical shapes in the two constructions, I can't say for certain. I have not noticed a marked difference in shipping weight between the metals and the glass boards, so I would have to say they are very close to the same.

I've built boards that wide in glass before. There would be no problem with a 22.5cm width on a 177. By next season, we'll be able to go a couple centemeters wider than that. EC boards are much more than additional width. EC boards have longer sidecut radii and softer flexes, allowing them to carve similar turn sizes to a FC while putting the board at a greater angle to the snow.

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Does the metal Axxess have the same flex pattern as the fiber glass one? in particular, the soft nose? i love my Ax, but it's thrown me over the handle bars several times. one particular bad nose stuffing left my legs sore for the rest of the season

The metal boards do tend to have a fair bit of offset to the tail resulting in a shovel that feels a bit softer than the tail. The softer shovel on the glass axxess that you describe is no different. You will, however, find that there is really no need or reason to dive onto the nose of the board. Single radius boards tend to need a little more coaxing to initiate, so people have a tendency to really push on the shovel to tighten up or start the turn. The metals use a variable sidecut radius that is tighter in the shovel, making such movements unnecessary. You can ride the board very centered while moving your center of mass no more than about 5 inches foreward and 5 inches back to use everything the variable sidecut has to offer. The carbon laminate does have the tendency to prevent overloading of the nose as well. You'll get thrown back in the center usually if you go too far forward on the board.

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Where I ride all mountain requires some powder float. And I am a fan of low angles for riding all mountain. So can you build a board like the axxess. but 2cm wider n 29.5 w 23.5 t 28.1, or is a 1cm wider gonna be the limit?

I can just make that dimension actually. It doesn't give me any room to play on the width of our metal, but if I'm carefull, I can do it.

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So any comments on the stiffness of the boards in your line.

I don't have much to compare to, only Factory primes, old burton freeride boards(frontier, yohan, republik), an 02 tanker, 2010 a-frame, 181 supermodel, and friends have told me burton alp was to soft for hard charging.

the 73 FP is pretty stiff and not very damp. kind of scary when the nose gets loaded hard

the 181 is pretty damp but kind of a noodle with hard boots. Too soft.

my 02 tanker and the frontier/republik are good all mountain boards on hard boots. The frontier 75 has lots of snap to air it out between turns. A little more damp a little less snap would be good I think.

A wider version of your axxess is going to be stiffer than the original right. or will other things be done to keep the flex of the original.

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what about applying the 172's SCR's to the 167? just dreaming at the moment but who knows I may be employed next season and not in school

You can have whatever you like. The specs on the web site are just starting points. If you want a longer sidecut, it's no problem at all.

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So any comments on the stiffness of the boards in your line.

I don't have much to compare to, only Factory primes, old burton freeride boards(frontier, yohan, republik), an 02 tanker, 2010 a-frame, 181 supermodel, and friends have told me burton alp was to soft for hard charging.

the 73 FP is pretty stiff and not very damp. kind of scary when the nose gets loaded hard

the 181 is pretty damp but kind of a noodle with hard boots. Too soft.

my 02 tanker and the frontier/republik are good all mountain boards on hard boots. The frontier 75 has lots of snap to air it out between turns. A little more damp a little less snap would be good I think.

A wider version of your axxess is going to be stiffer than the original right. or will other things be done to keep the flex of the original.

I've softened up the metals quite a bit, but I can easily stiffen them. The boards are so much damper and more torsionally rigid, that longitudinal stiffness is not really a requirement.

When I change the width of a board, but leave the stiffness the same, the cores profile is recalculated to generate the same stiffness. This allows me to build two boards that are identical in flex even if the width and sidecut radii are different. To my knowledge there isn't another manufacturer in the industry that has such control over the stiffness of their boards.

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When I change the width of a board, but leave the stiffness the same, the cores profile is recalculated to generate the same stiffness. This allows me to build two boards that are identical in flex even if the width and sidecut radii are different. To my knowledge there isn't another manufacturer in the industry that has such control over the stiffness of their boards.

HUH , consider your knowledge updated;)

Does this also compensate for wood density variance?

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Ya, I'm really confused about the stiffness thing. How stiff will it be? And is that stiffer or softer than what I think I want? Do I try Jack's (dumbell on board between to supports) method and see how stiff my boards are. And compare to his data on the donek metal fc.

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I don't plan on riding it in deep powder. But 6" to a foot of tracked powder is possible, deep untracked stuff will be left for the tanker. Actual moguls aren't very common on my home mountain anymore, so that is not a concern. so i'll be riding it 75% groomed terrain.

Free carve boards turn to long in the size I want.

So am I looking for a custom shape freecarve board. maybe.

Maybe I'll phone and talk to you sean. What days and time are best for you?

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