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snowpro bindings screws?


energyrail

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I just got my snowpro's, and i'm mounting them up. Two questions.

what are the conical washers for? It seems to be that if I use them I won't have much thread depth into the inserts.

The heel block on the front binding is going to be left as is. but the retaining screws for the heel block are protruting. Will the rubber pad compress and allow them to contact the board?

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It sounds like you have the wrong length screws in the wrong places. They come with a butt load of screws, all different lengths. Some if you use shims / cants, some if you don't. Some are for the plate itself. The conical washers are lock washers and they do an alright job.

The retaining screws for the heals should not go all the way threw the binding. Again, it sounds like you need to move around the screw lengths to get the right screw for the job. I would not trust the rubber pad to protect the board.

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In addition to that question, how tight should the bails be?

My catek world cups well tighten them till it looks like the boots are deforming. then stop. The snowpro's might break before that happens.

Right now they feel pretty tight to close, but WOW these things have flex. How much should I let them have?

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I love Snowpros. I ride them on the most of my freeride, pow and AM boards. If I didn't have the TD2s, I would be content with Snowpros on all the boards...

Protruding screws sometimes CAN touch the board and leave the mark. Either grind them off a bit, or make an extra gasket under the binding. I found the Ikea's thin kitchen cutting sheets to be perfect for that.

Mounting screws with the washer in place should be plenty long to engage the inserts. If they are not, then they are not original, or you mixed something up...

Bail should be tight, but you still should be able to close it with one hand. They will not break, they are probably the strongest bails after TDs and Cateks.

If your boots are very large size and you are tempted to extend the bindings beyond the last notch on the toe/heel blocks, please do not do that. It can lead to the failure.

If assembling the cants/lifts in the warm place, you'll have to check/retighten the toe/heel block screws once you are in cold. You have to do that only once, then it will be fine until the next cant/lift setup. CHeck the mounbting screws from time to time, too.

If you wet mount the bindings, the rubber gasket will create a lot of vacuum to the board (if gloss finish), that would enhance the hold and prevent accidental rotation.

Snowpros create a bit more insert suction at the base then, say, F2 or Burton, due to the kidney hole shape in the gasket. This is normal, do not get concerned.

Hope it helps.

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I too have used Snowpro's in the past and agree with Boris on most of it. I have found that the mounting screws are the correct length and if you tighten them a little at a time, the gasket will compress and everything will snug up fine. The one area of caution however is the "kidney shaped" slot in the binding base. It will indeed create more insert suck on the base of the board so go easy on these screws. I have a board which had an insert pull almost through the topsheet. The larger kidney shaped slots in the base are large enough to let it come right through with nothing to stop it. Granted, the threaded section had broken free from the bottom of the insert. I don't know if the binding contributed to that or not but I'm more careful now. I also make spacers that are as thick as the base plate to go around the screws that prevent them from being overtightened.

Good luck.

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I can definately say if you have big boots, do NOT ride snowpros.

I blew out the heel bail plate on my SnoproRace bindings my first season.

Make sure the screws are in the proper places. there is spacers that fit under the pads to adjust ride height if my memory serves. I also experienced some screws denting the surface of my board.

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There is no other set of holes, at least not on Race and Ltd models. Heel and toe blocks are held by 4 screws each, so moving in on th escrew holes would mean being on only 2 screws. Do not do that please.

However, the sliding adjustment is ample. I am certain they can hold the Burton M25 boot, which should be slightly shorter then Raichle/Deluxe and a full size shorter then Head. On the big side, they can hold Deluxe M29. I havn't tried bigger then that.

I guess your UPZ 27 equals the Deluxe 26, or so. Should be just fine.

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I just went to Dan Yoja's site and, surprise, the step-in base plates are indeed different than the standard bails. Hmm. I wouldn't have thunk it. Guess you learn something new every day.

So energyrail, Good thing your boots fit and you don't have smaller feet! :D

As for the spacers,

I just went to the hardware store and bought a couple of nylon spacer designed to go around a 1/4" bolt and cut them to length. I chose some with a thicker wall.

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