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Step Into Liquid....great surfing documentary


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There are so many good parts to this production, but the highlights for me are when the guy from Wisconsin says, "THE STOKE" and the foil boarding segments. I'm not sure where the sport is now, but it was interesting to see how they used snowboard boots and bindings on the originals. It was also cool to see how snowboarding has given back to surfing trick wise.

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THURSDAY

9/16/2004

10:30AM - 11:00AM HIGH FIVE (TV-PG)

G-Land

The world's most famous surfer Gerry Lopez talks for the first time about his life and career in one of the world's best surf locations that he discovered and which now hosts the top surfing competition of the season - G Land, Java.

Search listings for "surf" / this month at olntv.com as Surfer's Journal has been airing some bio's worth watching, even for us non-surfers.

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Very nice, Hugh! Looks to be 9'8" to 10'0"? Square tail, single fin? Looks like a nice summer time cruiser! Grew up in SD riding long boards, rarely riding anything under 9'0". Folks still live in Carlsbad, so I get out in the water when I go visit. Enjoy!

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That was lame of me not to list the board specs on the first post.

9'6" single fin, wooden tail block, teardrop concave on the bottom for expert noseriding, 3 5/16" thickness. Also, this board makes my 5'10" frame look 4'10".

Next up, a Ferguson 8'- 8'6" funboard.

Hugh

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Robert August (Endless Summer - 1964) is still shaping boards. He was also featured in the second Endless Summer (1994) - Wingnut being one of his team riders. He's got a couple of signature models.

I grew up riding a couple of G&S (Skip Frye models) and several Encinitas (John Kies) noseriders. My dad has a nice quiver of boards from 10'0" to 8'6'. He has a 9'6" Hank Byzak shape, tri-fin, rounded pin, step-deck, that I LOVE to ride when I go and visit.

Utah needs a wave park, dammit!:mad:

Actually, I just need to visit the folks more often;)

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A shot of the backside before it ever hit the water.

Kirk,

Skip Frye is a San Diego longboard, we don't see many of those up north. A carving friend of mine rides one. We were down in SD on a business trip in 1999...we found time to visit the beaches and order a Frye for him.

post-92-141842198499_thumb.jpg

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Hugh,

I always liked the oval that outlines the concave nose - classic!

Actually, all those shapers are in the San Diego area. Skip Frye is still in the Pacific Beach area (as far as I know). John Kies (Encinitas) and Hank Byzak (Pure Fun and Hansen) - both great shapers and both in the Encinitas area. My dad has a really pretty 9'3" Hap Jacobs as well - absolutely BEAUTIFUL board. Only got to ride it once or twice - very nice! It mostly just hangs on the wall in his den. Can't blame him!

This is the time of year when SoCal starts gettin' some juicy swells - I imagine Santa Cruz is similar. Do you guys up north wear rubber year 'round?

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Longboarding is such a trip, there is always something to ride. This week, the head high and over head sets came into town. After a summer of knee to waist high waves, I forgot what real surf looked like. Shortboarders were out in force, pro riders going off with photographers in the water almost getting crushed in order to get the killer photos. I caught my biggest longboard wave this week. I was kinda worried about the long drop-in on such a long board. It turned out to be a close-out wave, but I did drop in and ride it to shore anyway. My board at speed was super stable, the actual ride was easier than the drop.

This week, the water got cold. Cold hands/feet and chattering teeth. I'm stoked on my new 4/3mm Psycho. Scored it for 50% off at the Labor day O'Neil sale...very nice. I've got booties and a hood for cold days, thinking about the gloves.

Lots of people out this summer with only trunks or bikinis. Cold water and beautiful women are a good combination :)

Hugh

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