Need advice on hardboots

[kynkelsdad]

I've been riding for 12 years and have clickers on a Khyber. Don't laugh, I have a bad right hip so the click in/out works well for me. The problem is, in deep powder in the trees I have trouble going from heel to toe. I find it's easier when I jam stuff in the back of my boot to increase my forward lean. So, would a hardboot with a lot of forward lean solve my problem, or are hardboots not good in the pow?

[BlueB]

Quickfix: find the riser plates with angle and mount your clickers onto that.

Hard boots work in pow too, but you'll get mixed ansvers on that. I guess it depends on rider's preferences.

[Sinecure]

If you get hard boots, get step-ins and then do a search for the setup that a few of us have rigged up where we run a strap up through our pants and it comes out at the hip. I can release my bindings w/out even bending over. I have an impingement (FAI - getting surgery in the spring) in my rearside hip (left, I'm goofy) and it really helps me. The pull handle on Fin-Tec heels will accept a standard 3/4" fastex clip - rig that to some web strapping, run it up the inside of your pants and out at the hip - I had a cobbler cut a hole in my pants and sew leather around it so it won't rip. The strapping comes out that hole and I've attached some rings to it so I can grab and pull with gloves on.

I ride hard boots in powder too. I usually leave them unlocked (in walk mode). When I'm riding with them locked, my rear boot is set to be leaning forward more and my front foot is more upright.

[kjl]

I do not like hardboots in powder. Lots of people here have differing opinions, but I think you lose a lot of the surfy feel, the subtle feathery touch, and the magic carpety feel of powder which is why you ride powder in the first place.

If you think all you want is more forward lean on the back foot (which is actually how I ride my softboots), you can do what I do, which is get Catek Freerides (regular strap bindings; don't know if you can deal with it with your hip), which gives you the ability to adjust not only the highback angle, but the actual cant/lift of the plate you stand on as well.

So on my softboot setup, I have the front foot highback adjusted somewhere in the middle, and actually have a little bit of toe lift on the foot plate (less forward lean), and on the back foot, I have the highback adjusted as far forwards as possible, and have tilted the foot plate as far forwards (towards the toes, lifting the heel) as possible, for even more forward lean.

See: http://catek.com/FR2-soft-binding.htm

It is a very nice, stiff, responsive binding, and the ability to adjust the tilting of the foot plate of the binding is very nice. AFAIK they have no step-in/clicker version.

[Dr D]

sounds like finding a good pair of switch n-type vans with the forward lean adjustment would fit you the best. the con boas would do it if you can find a pair in your size.

[mackDan]

I'll start with KJL's comment: Riding with the boot back unlocked. Yes, you will see this mentioned in other posts. In the powder being locked in does not give you the flexibility you need to adapt to the snow under your board. Different from carving on the hardpack where you try and dominate the snow with your board and boot/binding. Thus in powder you need to adapt to it, and thus need to be more flexible. You can ride with a locked back, but it takes some getting used to.

"my rear boot is set to be leaning forward more and my front foot is more upright." Yes this allows you to apply pressure to the rear leg and get the board rotating up for the heel turn. This demonstrates that the heel turn (not the toe turn) is driven by the pressure of the shin on the rear of the boot.

going to hardboots in powder, the hardest part to learn is the heel to toe transition (forward), exactly what you're having problems with, so I don't think HBs are going to help you out.

Ok, now to your original comment; "The problem is, in deep powder in the trees I have trouble going from heel to toe. I find it's easier when I jam stuff in the back of my boot to increase my forward lean."

Sorry, but that doesn't make sense. going from heel to toe, you are pressing your shins on the front of the boot and that pressure gets the board up on edge and leads to the turn. Locking the back at greater angles helps you get the heel edge turn faster.

What this sounds like is your boot is flexible and you ride with the boot tops looser than maybe you need to. Filling up the area behind your shin, pushes your shin forward and pre-loads the boot allowing you to transition faster onto your toes.

Or its a function of your riding style and your turn initiation. Maybe your trying to turn with your feet instead of your body?

OK suggestions:

1. tighten your boot tops, or try adding a power strap. You can simulate this cheaply with a belt or nylon strap or even maybe tape or rope wrapped tight around the top area of your boot to tighten it up.

2. A toe lift. Try jamming stuff under the toe of your boot. This will have the same effect of pre-loading the boot for the toe turn.

3. try and slow down and drive the turn with your shoulders. Try and just steer with your shoulders only, over rotate them to learn what happens.

good luck, report back.

[Jon Dahl]

This is setup, not equipment, issue. First, try a cant/lift for the heel. If you can find an old burton fixed 7 degree for the back foot, rig it up. If not, you're gonna have to build it. Cateks are expensive, but worth it if you are dedicated to softies. Second, try some "Gilmour offset". Move the rear boot more to the toeside, opposite for the front foot, and see what it does for you. Having the ball of your rear foot closer to the toeside edge should help drive the transition heel to toe. Third, snug up those boots!

Bad right hip, and you ride left foot forward? Just a guess, if so, you may need to dedicate some exercises to the weak area. See a PT for advice.

[kynkelsdad]

I appreciate all of the advice. Now I have lots of things to try out. Sounds like before I switch to HB I should tinker with my setup. I use flat clickers because they are easier to get in/out. And very stiff K2 boots. I use power straps as well. They are cranked to the point of preventing circulation, so they are not loose. +30 degrees front, -7 degrees back. Soulder width apart.

As for OffpisteHardboots comment about it not making sence, it probably is my technique. I probably don't bend my knees enough and jaming stuff in the back of my boot forces me to bend my knees. When I turn from heel to toe in the deep stuff, I un-weight the back and try to kick my rear foot back. But I often can't get turned far enough (because I'm pushing snow) and I end up standing up with my legs straight in the middle of a turn, then I have to horse it a round a bit more which can get a bit hairy when you're heading for a tree.

I can carve like a pro on the groomers but powder's another story for me. I actually did make some wedges to put under my clickers but they were too steep. I'll try one just for my back foot and make it less steep. I'll also see if there is a way to move my boot towards the toe edge.

[mackDan]

"They are cranked to the point of preventing circulation, so they are not loose." OK, K2 boots, those have a stiff back, and you have them tight, so that's not the problem.

But "+30 degrees front, -7 degrees back. Shoulder width apart."

OK I think that's the problem. your back foot is trailing too much in angle. If your thinking about going to hardboots, the angle between the bindings is only 3-10 degrees. Most of my Soft boot friends only ride about 10 less on the rear foot, or ride duck, +5, -5 or so.

The +30 on your front foot is good for fast forward snowboarding, but maybe not so good for powder riding. Try going to +20 or +15 on the front, and set your rear foot to +15 or +10 (5 degree less than your front). that will get your legs working together more and should aid in a faster more balanced transition to your heel turn.

"When I turn from heel to toe in the deep stuff, I un-weight the back and try to kick my rear foot back."

Try a push then pull. Push with your legs, drop your shoulder into the turn and push through.

"But I often can't get turned far enough (because I'm pushing snow) and I end up standing up with my legs straight in the middle of a turn, then I have to horse it a round a bit more which can get a bit hairy when you're heading for a tree."

You're trying to force the turn with your feet, instead of your shoulders and body. So stop that bad form.

Here's an exercise for you (after you readjust your binding angles).

Start on a run with a long slow turn all the way across. Then each turn after try and decrease the time between turns until you stop. then repeat until your bored. repeat some more.

exercise #2 (my favorite). End of the day, find that intermediate run with all the deep pushed snow. The piles that run down the hill. You are going to work one pile, staying within about 5-10' of the center line. Start slow, drive hard and early with your shoulders. the board should be turning, carving quick up the side of the pile. Before you get to the top, start the shoulders back the other way, When you sort of pop off the top, your body should be aligned for the new turn, and the board should drop down the backside and turn hard up into the new side. You want regular timing and you should be able to stay within +/-5' of the center line. You'll feel it when this is working, your arms will be going one direction, your shoulders will be about a 1/2 turn in front of your board and the board will be hooking up every turn and popping off the top. And you'll be balanced and in control.

You can do this on flat snow, but the snow pile and up down will help your timing.

Again report back.