tdifan_2003 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Thanks for all replys. Apparently this seems to be a common problem. I have not taken the bindings apart yet. I do think it's the block issue, since it's made out of softer material (aluminum) and the bail is stainless steel. I will see what exactly the issue is when I take them apart. Cool inventions with the springs and rubber bands . I don't think I'd go that far though . As far as the stripping goes, I just bought from Fin 5mm hex screws and I think this will be the end of it Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XL6Im23KG5I Just found that in another forum here. Actually, I was just thinking about kind of same mode - only with shorter levers. I think, after a while, Jeff can just put a reference to this thread with every set of Cateks he sells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 .....just reviving an old topic .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 for what purpose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 for what purpose? instead of hearting, why don't you take some motrin ? it's good stuff . On the more serious side - Catek, unfortunately do have some issues, so refreshing the old discussion should not bring excruciating pain...................one would hope :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted January 17, 2010 Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Dumb@$$! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serge Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hello all, I found an interview with Jasey Jay about his camp and snowboarding.Thought you guys might be interested: http://www.theadventureshow.com/v2/listen.php?t=d&tid=14 Cheers Edit : Sorry, I mistakenly replied to the post instead of starting a new thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Whats the latest with placing orders with Catek. Anyone had any success? I'm contemplating swapping all my OS2 bindings from standard to step-in, and was thinking about ordering 4 step-in kits from them. It's probably the most cost effective way to go for me. So, anyone had any good or bad news from trying to place an order from them, and what's the best way to contact them? Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Well I shot 'em an email....I'll see what happens..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Good luck, hope they respond to you. I gave up waiting for a response from them. Sold all my Catek stuff except one set and that will probably be up for sale soon. It's too bad, nice bindings but I don't want to be stuck with bindings that I can't get replacement parts for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Well good job I haven't received a response yet, as it gave me time to read the Fintec steel receiver thread. So, I really need just 4 front OS2 SI bails, and 4 Steel OS2 heel receivers from Bomber, if they do another run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serge Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 For what it is worth, I took a chance and ordered a pair of SI bails in January, and got them in 3 weeks....Never got any replies to me emails. Mind you, 30$ for USPS shipping seems quite steep though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 $30? Well I guess that's to canada, so probably to be expected. Expensive for such a small part though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Just shipped a pair of step in bails to the US from Canada. $4.95 postage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 for 4 sets of SI front bails. $12 shipping stateside order. I hope I'll be lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 4 sets of step in front bails (8 total) - order placed 3/3/11. - received tracking number 3/9/11. - package arrived 3/14 Nice packaging, very professional. Class act. I just placed order via website - no emails sent. Stuff showed up 11 days later. Thanks Catek! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 For those of us, who for whatever reason prefer Cateks, that's good to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gcarve Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 For those of us, who for whatever reason prefer Cateks, that's good to hear. I've been considering getting some OS2's, but after reading about all of these issues, am I crazy to still want to buy Catek's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimo Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 I've been considering getting some OS2's, but after reading about all of these issues, am I crazy to still want to buy Catek's? No, you are not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Happy New Year to everyone . While re-mounting my bindings, I've got another question. Probably a dumb one , but I'd rather ask and not screw up the board and inserts. I am putting a 6 degree cant with a heel lift on the back binding. This lifts the whole plate quite a bit. The short King pin is too short, but the long one is a bit long. So, where do I put the spacers? If I put them between the plate and the powerplate - then the King pin is still too long and gets to the surface of the board and the binding is still lose. Though, this is the way I see it in the Carver Almanac - http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_model.html. That's the way I have been mounting the bindings so far, but with less cant. I could always compensate this by screwing down the four tilt screws so the can actually reach down to the powerplate, but I don't know how this would affect the per-calculated cant/tilt. On the other hand - If I put the spacers on the Kingpin and then put it through the plate and powerplate (the King pin would not flush with the binding), it seems to be fine and when I tighten it up, it doesn't reach the surface of the board. Please share your thoughts and experience. Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Hi tdifan_2003 Did you read through this :- http://catek.com/resources/OS2_IM_0708.pdf The spacers do go between the powerplate and the binding plate. You have the O ring in place - right? (not that that would take much height up). How many spacers are you using? Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Hi Paul, I did read the manual. It has not been updated for the D3 modification. OS2 with D3 - no O-ring. It's "build" in the D3 elastomer. As I said, I have been putting the spacers exactly as you said, but now, with 6 degree lift, I put 2 spacers and when I tighten the KP all the way down, it reaches the board and the binding is still lose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Hi Paul,I did read the manual. It has not been updated for the D3 modification. Check the link I posted above, it does cover D3 elastomers. Hi Paul,I did read the manual. It has not been updated for the D3 modification. OS2 with D3 - no O-ring. It's "build" in the D3 elastomer. As I said, I have been putting the spacers exactly as you said, but now, with 6 degree lift, I put 2 spacers and when I tighten the KP all the way down, it reaches the board and the binding is still lose. So, the manual recommends using the O-ring - so I suggest using it. Also, it says use 3 spacers and long kingpin for extreme tilt or rise. So, I suggest trying an extra spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 So, Just tried 3 spacers - not good. The binding "hangs on the King pin and the tilt screws don't even touch the power plate. I really don't know where am I supposed to put the O-ring. Last time when I spoke with Jeff, he said, with the D3, I don't need the O-ring any more. Are talking about the same thing? O-ring - the rubber gasket that you put under the spherical nut that the KP goes, keeping it in place so you can actually tighten the KP? Now I have it on with 2 spacers and if I follow the exact suggestions from the manual and leave it at that, then the tilt screws could get lifted just a bit from the power plate when carving. I will try it tomorrow and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrutton Posted January 1, 2012 Report Share Posted January 1, 2012 Ahh, I see the source of confusion. There are two O-rings per binding. Click on the Exploded View photo on Catek's website. One O ring goes on the kingpin on the top side of the binding plate immediately under the head of the kingpin. The other O ring goes underneath the spherical nut. The D3's are full width suspensions, so I suspect that Jeff means you do not need the O ring under the spherical nut. I don't know what actually happens when carving, but I don't think that the tilt screws should rise up while carving. When I install them, they are quite solid, and I typically go round and tighten them up like a cylinder head moving from bolt to bolt. IIRC this does tend to limit the angle, as it flattens out the binding somewhat; maybe there's a better way to do this. I'm still learning with the tilt-angle adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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