caspercarver Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 for those of us who have metal topsheets (with no warranty), what is the current wisdom on the best binding for metal topsheet? i have lexan plates, are they still recommended? i have ibex race, td2 standards and td3 step-ins. what your opinion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gleb Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 all of the above. I don't think you need the lexan plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Brown Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Gleb, you changed your avatar? I loved the Fluff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gleb Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Gleb, you changed your avatar? I loved the Fluff! LOL! The fluff one was put up trailertrash when he saw or heard about my fluff sandwiches. No clue whose idea it was for this one, but I guess its "open season," according to Polaris here. I do miss the fluff one too. Maybe I'll make that my next board's topsheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csquared Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 ...don't under any circumstances mount your old school non-resilient bindings directly to your metal board. Bruce Varsava only recommends using F2 bindings directly mounted on his metal boards (and that is without the metal exposed because it is buried under a layer of fiberglass and the top sheet). Bruce also has very little confidence in plastic shield plates but many others have cited these as a reasonable alternative (I have been using Catek plastic shields with Catek Olympic step-ins on one of my metal boards). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caspercarver Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 oh well, for now i think i will use the lexan and the ibex. the ibex are certainly more flexable/forgiving. the ibex work great on the Swoard but never have tried them on the metal. i read a lot of the old threads on metals lately. i was certainly remiss in not doing my homework before i invested so much $$$. live and learn and work ALOT more overtime. cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 I rode a metal topsheet first-gen Prior WCR with TD2s and nothing in between for 2 seasons without a problem. TD3 (especially with soft/yellow e-ring) should be even gentler on the board. I generally don't break boards or bindings though, so I'm not riding in an excessively binding-torquing way. Bruce Varsava only recommends using F2 bindings directly mounted on his metal boards (and that is without the metal exposed because it is buried under a layer of fiberglass and the top sheet). Does he still say that? Bruce watched me mount TD2s to my new board and didn't say anything. Hasn't been a problem either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coloradoking Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 td2s and rd3s have a nice big squishy elasto,er under them so they usually do fine, anything else however, i would recommend using a plate (really doesnt matter which one as long as the binding doesnt touch the board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 BV told me I could use TD2's or anything else on my metal board w/o lexan plates. FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastskiguy Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 If it really doesn't matter which one you buy then the TD3's have that thick squishy pad between the binding and the board, it's gotta be the best....doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coloradoking Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 its all about findinf a setup that works for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 No bitchin' in the kitchen... It's so easy to make polycarb plates, they cost next to nothing, and for me, it was a fun little project because I never get to play with plastic. I mean honestly..what is one good reason not to make them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Varsava Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 ...don't under any circumstances mount your old school non-resilient bindings directly to your metal board. Bruce Varsava only recommends using F2 bindings directly mounted on his metal boards (and that is without the metal exposed because it is buried under a layer of fiberglass and the top sheet). Bruce also has very little confidence in plastic shield plates but many others have cited these as a reasonable alternative (I have been using Catek plastic shields with Catek Olympic step-ins on one of my metal boards). My young apprentice, you must pay attention when in class. No concerns have arisen with TD2 or plexi plated Cateks. F2s , TD2s or 3s can be mounted direct. I have seen one of mine and a few others break right at the end of the plexi plates. Been home made versions I must add. Still have to agree that softer is more compatible though and if taken near the materials limit, I would rather have a softer model to match the softer flexing boards. BV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seantremblant Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Prior recommended TD2s with the suspension kit for my WCR Metal 183. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdifan_2003 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 I rode a metal topsheet first-gen Prior WCR with TD2s and nothing in between for 2 seasons without a problem. TD3 (especially with soft/yellow e-ring) should be even gentler on the board. I generally don't break boards or bindings though, so I'm not riding in an excessively binding-torquing way. And still none . I have it with OS2 with D3 elastomers. Millen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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