Bails bye-bye

[nutmeg]

Today at noon upon exiting the chairlift I suddenly found I had lost the rear bail on right (rear, since I riding regular) binding. (See Image.) I have no idea why, I did not realize something was amiss until the bail was completely gone. I wonder how this could happen, the remaining pieces are not damaged afaict and with about 62 kg I should not be able to break 6mm of steel (F2 race titanium. non-intec).

I am just very grateful I have got a replacement at hand, a F2 Intec Titanium I got for the my new board.

[Petrol]

I hope your day wasn't left a total wash

[nutmeg]

I hope your day wasn't left a total wash

It was cut a little bit short, but the time I had was good. (5000m)

After doublechecking the other binding I cannot see how I could have lost the bail without breaking it.

[rhaskins]

There is a thread on the Extreme Carving site related to F2 bails (and others) breaking:

http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1775&highlight=titanflex+review

If that does not bring up the post, try searching on "titanflex review", there is a thread with pictures.

Rick

[RCrobar]

I wonder how this could happen, the remaining pieces are not damaged afaict and with about 62 kg I should not be able to break 6mm of steel (F2 race titanium. non-intec).

Take a paper clip and slowly bend it back and forth repeatedly, eventually it will break.

The side-to-side movement of your boot in your rear binding bail is placing micro movements, like the paper clip being bent back and forth, on your binding bail. This movement will eventually break your bail.

As a rider I am NOT very hard on any of my equipment, breaking almost no equipment over the years. I have, however, broken almost every rear bail I have owned, regardless of the binding.

Note: I have experimented with my binding set up on my standard bindings, setting the toe lever so that it is loose, medium and tight when closing the bail. In my experience this has made NO difference in stopping a bail from bending and/or breaking. Carry a spare bail in your pocket.

My guess is you broke your bail and the two parts fell into the snow without you noticing.

Rob

[Jack M]

Rob's experience is not typical. If your bindings are sized properly such that it takes a full hand and maybe a little help from your other hand to close them, your bails should give you a number of years of service. If your bindings are sized too lose such that the boot can roll side to side when clipped in, this increases the leverage on the bails in a bad way.

However with plastic bindings, all bets are off.

[Bruce Varsava]

One thing I used to do with my old Burton Raceplates was to switch the front to rear each season as the work hardening on the front is less since it only gets stretched a few times a day vs the approx 10 to 40 times for the rear binding. Maybe even more times if you ride the likes of my closest hill which has a massive 300' vert and a hi speed lift:)

I now use F2 rear step in and front regulars

BV

[D.T.]

If your bindings are sized too lose such that the boot can roll side to side when clipped in, this increases the leverage on the bails in a bad way.

plus the cyclic loading significantly increases the likelihood of fatigue failure

[nils]

jack is right: Loose bails are more subject to fatigue and despite some riders (Jacques for example) liking the loose feeling its putting to much stress on the bails that will break.

Another factor is likely to add fatigue to bails, is wide boards ( 23-24 cm) with lower boot angles. Despite having the bails locked tight, the bails get more stress, they are subject to micro bends that tend to, after a while, make the steel weaker and break. I assume there is not much to do besides checking them often, and changing them after a few months of intense riding ( i always carry a spare in the pocket)

N