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60 years young


Guest big Tone

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Guest big Tone

One of the guys from that fatefull expression session is still flying the flag high

Ladies and gentlemen may I introduce NAT YOUNG

He still loves to use his face to control the speed of punches.

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Heh, that was a big story in Australia when it happened. Basically, Nat Young was surfing at his home beach a few years ago, and got in a disagreement with a much younger guy out in the water. The disagreement continued when they both got to the beach, and Nat "used his face to control the speed of the other guy's punches".

But then he went and cashed in on the whole thing by writing a book called <a href="http://www.natyoung.com/surfrage.html">Surf Rage</a>.

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Guest Ken D

I LOVE surfing... but have to say, the vibe can go SUPER bad with the wrong element in the water. For as much soul is needed to love the sport, a level of aggression is needed to tackle heavier water. Unfortunately some DICKS turn it into ultimate fighting championships. NOT the spiritual lifestyle the polynesians intended.

This year on long island i have already seen enough fights. Nobody owns waves, or turns... show respect and maybe it will be returned.

ps: I think there is more to that Nat Young story than him just getting a beating. Can't remember the details, was he provoking? In any event...NOT deserved.

Ken D

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Yeah, Nat got into a beef with an 18 year-old kid, who was giving him lip and Nat slapped the kid. Then the kid's father jumped him and proceeded to beat him to a pulp. The eye sockets and cheekbones on both sides of his face were broken.

This sort of thing is why I left surfing in the early 70's. I still miss the ocean and surfing but not that territorial imperitive bull*&%#.

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Locals always think they own the place, and shall be enforced when they do use violence / threats / car bashing etc against 'foreigners'. Its funny that a simple priority rule on the wave (closest to the peak) is always gets ruled out by locals with the IQ of a shell.

I've had the chance to ride in Tahiti in '93, and I remember seeing locals beeing so nice it was almost unbelievable compare to what europe / cal gets. ( Also got to see the late Mark Foo and crew filling the line up with attitudes and powerboats when we were a bunch of international melting pot riders; I can tell you none of us got a ride back to the island, despite the strong winds and the 1 hour back paddle... was before teahupoo was " discovered" and jet skies and engines started smelling and poluting the line ups...)

Since then i start paddling out when its still dark to be first out: its hard for a local to claim he owns the place when u arrived 2 hours before he did! This way u get 2 hours of glassy conditions and can pack home undisturbed!

Nils

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Guest Ken D

Dawn patrol!

Nils... do you surf France? I have surfed in Martinique and met some guys from Dijon and elswere that let me borrow a board. NASTY pointbreak... nice guys!

Ken D

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I used to go to hossegor spend september there when i was a student :), nowadays I paddle out maybe 5-10 times a year max :( this happens when u live close to the mountains and far away from decent beach breaks!

Surfin is soo hard to learn compare to snowboarding its something unreal! Understanding the waves themselves is sooo long! Especially when u get to surf breaks with no fixed lineup!! Paddle paddle paddle!

Nils

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Guest big Tone

The young guy involved in the altercation with Nat was simply responding to the intimidation techniques used to get waves. Nat is notorius for dropping in, snaking and basically not respecting other peoples rights or abilities.

Did he deserve a punch in the head? Maybe not, but he is said to be a little more respectfull these days.

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surfing is about beeing out on the sea, waiting in the lineup, feeling the salty air. When people paddle out with business like attitude such as enter lineup, take as much wave as they can, then leave ( not to mention bad vibes etc...) they are passing by the incredible chance we have of beeing just there out with the elements.

Same goes for Hunting: i'm not a fanatic hunter, but my best days where actually when I watched the nature, the wildlife walking silently unheard, without firing a single shot, and sharing that after its over with passionnated people...

Predating mind is not welcome in any sport with surfing spirit, nor in Life in general I guess...

N.

ps: 1000's in Malibu: i'd have some shaper make me the " fastest paddler ever" so I'd be further out taking the first of each set :)

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Guest Ken D

Bob,

There are some kayak surfers on long island and one of my friends (also a kayak surfer) moved to Rhode Island and does it there now. I don't think its equipment that makes for hostility, its the tight line up on points, kooks and aggro-butt-wipes.

As I have said in other threads, the equipment is only part of the ride. Bring a good attitude and everyone has a good time.

ps: I'm proud to be a surfer and unfortunately, i have met more dicks in the the sport (surfing) than any other. I have also met some of the coolest people.

Ken D

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Originally posted by Dave Winters

This sort of thing is why I left surfing in the early 70's. I still miss the ocean and surfing but not that territorial imperitive bull*&%#.

I also quit surfing in the early 70's for these same reasons. I quit kayaking about 3 years ago due to the onslaught of the same kind of crowd showing up at the local play waves and put-ins.

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