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How do I know what length alpine board to buy?


Guest Chris2498

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Guest Chris2498

Hi, I work at Winter Park ski resort in Colorado as a lifty and have been seeing these alpine boards on the mountain for quite some time now. I was wondering how do I know which length alpine board to get? I'm about 6ft 180 or so. I talked to one guy who had a 188cm but I think it was used for racing a few years ago. This guy is the one who has really got me into wanting to get a alpine board and start learning to ride after he told me he was clocked at 80mph at Breckenridge. I dought I will ever go those speeds but it sure is amazing that a snowboarder can go that fast. So any help you can give me on picking the right length board would be awsome. Thanks

Chris

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There is two schools. Start with short board or start long board. Both have advantages.

However, the most important parameter is sidecut radius and lenght only after that.

Shorter boards tend to have sidecut radius and therfore are very agile so you can ride them even in crowded areas or narrow trails. Those boards however are not very stable. They simply want to turn if you just preassure any part of edge closer to the tip. They may throw you from side to side. They may not be the best to learn smooth movement and feel of what's happening with the board. They may be demanding.

Longer boards are stable and therefore good for higher speeds. They still can have excessively small sidecut radius with some manufacturers, but majority of boards will have that radius just fine.

These boards will be difficult to handle on crowded trails and narrow trails. You may want to try them earily in the morning before city boys and girls wake up to get to the slope. They are definitely fun and can make you fast... damn fast. I do not know about 80mph, but 40-50 mph for a good carver is possible. You will make less turns though and that beats purpose of many carvers - making carved turns.

Both types of boards are usually qualified as Slalom (SL) or giant slalom (GS) to differentiate on that basis. It does not mean though that you need to be a racer as you probably know well.

Both boards require somewhat different technique of riding and to me it seems better to start with slower technique on longer boards.

There is that class of freecarve boards - long and with that small carving radius. Those are weird species and I do not like them. I tried some Donek FC and it behaved like a rogue dog if you wanted to run them on somewhat straighter line. I prefer big Donek GS boards with sidecut at least 14m. They are really fun and predictable (controllable).

In general start thinking about two boards. Many of use use at least two boards.

I am 185 lbs and also about 6feet. Most frequently I use a board 185cm with 16m sidecut and 160cm with 10m sidecut. I can figure out when I use one or another now. I started on board 172cm with 12.5 sidecut. I went to board 178cm with 14m. I tried some other gear but it seem to me that . One board about 155-165cm with sidecut 8.5-10.5 and another 178-190cm with sidecut 14-16m should be just fine for my size, needs and abilities. But then you have to develope some abilities.

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Chris, the guy on the 188 is named Rex. He is riding a sims burner splittail. I rode with him one afternoon. There is a guy named Ben that teaches snowboarding at Winter Park who is certified as a hard boot instructor. I rode with him a few weeks ago. He teaches year round, Winter Park now and then back in New Zealand. If you can find him he might be able to help you out. Also I have an extra board if you want to meet and give it a go some day. Hope this helps.

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Guest Chris2498

Wpcarver yeah the guy I talked to I didn't know his name but he did have a split tail board. He was the most helpful on the mountain about the alpine board. I talked to one snowboard instructor who told me there was a instructor who tought or knows how to alpine board which I may see if I can get ahold of this guy for lesson or I may take you up on your offer. I could either rent it from you or buy you whatever 6 or 12 pack of beer you like.

Maciek I really don't think I'll be able to afford two boards well maybe few years from now. There has got to be some kinda board that is good all around? What do you mean some boards have a 12.5 sidecut? I don't understand what that is. Thanks

Chris

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Originally posted by Chris2498

Maciek I really don't think I'll be able to afford two boards well maybe few years from now. There has got to be some kinda board that is good all around? What do you mean some boards have a 12.5 sidecut? I don't understand what that is. Thanks

Chris

I did not say that some boards have 12.5 sidecut. Of course they are there. I said that I started on one. I meant that 12.5 was sidecut radius in meters. That's the important parameter.

Now as far as your buddy on Sims Burner 188, he uses much different board. That board with split tail behaves like many shorter or softer boards, because of it's split tail. Those boards are very rare now. They were great, but many advanced riders broke their tails. They are definitely fraglie boards.

If you have to go with one board then get some inexpensive freecarving board. You do not have much choice to size if you have to save money. You may want to get something that fits more to your slope/crowd/snow rather than to weight. As I said get one short and/or long board. Those in the middle are rather for lighter riders and they have not proper flex to guy of 180lbs. The board has to work as spring (but not too stiff!). I would go with something longer (175-180cm long about 13-14 sidecut radius). But this is personal preference. You may start on short board (about 160cm) if it is more sutable to your skiing/snowboarding conditions. Starting on Burner 188 is not the best idea, but you could try. Those boards are narrow either and you have to know how handle them.

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First I agree with golfer. A board between 68 and 75 would be good for your specs. But don't kid yourself. The short boards can go as fast as the big boys.

It is true, the more p-tex you have the faster you can go. I have many times caught up with longer boards and skiers without a problem. It all depends on the grade of the p-tex, the type of wax and, of course, the conditions of the snow.

:D

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Guest Chris2498

I already know I'll be spending over 900 for the set up hell maybe just over a grand and thats fine. I'll just have to work my ass off this summer. I still don't understand what is sidecut radius? is this the edge or what? I have seen on the Donek site that there is a thing called the waist of the board. Can you tell me what that is? The sidecut is that you mean the width? Sorry I'm totally new to all this still don't have a damm clue about some things. Thanks

Chris

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Originally posted by Chris2498

I already know I'll be spending over 900 for the set up hell maybe just over a grand and thats fine. I'll just have to work my ass off this summer. I still don't understand what is sidecut radius? is this the edge or what? I have seen on the Donek site that there is a thing called the waist of the board. Can you tell me what that is? The sidecut is that you mean the width? Sorry I'm totally new to all this still don't have a damm clue about some things. Thanks

Chris

I think you could get outfitted for your first ride a lot cheaper than $900. I just helped my son get started and he spent only few dollars. Here is how we did it. Ebay.

Nice Sims Burner Alpine 175

Brand new AF 600 Riachle boots 230

Trench digger stepins used for 125.

Total $530.

You don't have to go new to get started. Once you are experienced in what you like then buy the new stuff for a personal Christmas Present.

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I originally tried hard-booting in hopes that I would learn some tricks that would help me improve my soft-booting.

Close-out Raichle boots from BOL: $158

Nitro bindings, new, from eBay: $47

Liquid Slalom board, used, from eBay: $39

But, I broke the bindings first time out, broke them beyond repair the 4th or 5th time, and then blew my wad on a Donek FC and some Cateks. And then an Axis, and Catek Step-Ins, and a Coiler, and TD2s... watch out, it;s easy to get addicted!

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Guest Chris2498

I personally don't like buying used stuff because I feel like I'm gonna get screwd and I have many times before.

I saw that catek makes a soft boot binding for the alpine boards

has anyone tried this? or could I just use my soft boot binding from my snowboard that I have now is that an option?

Chris

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Originally posted by Chris2498

I saw that catek makes a soft boot binding for the alpine boards

has anyone tried this? or could I just use my soft boot binding from my snowboard that I have now is that an option?

The Catek is just a softboot binding, period. It's not specifically for alpine boards or any other kind of board in particular.

You can put your softboot bindings on an alpine board, but you will be exceeding their capabilities as soon as you progress beyond carving green circles. Maybe even sooner.

-Jack

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Originally posted by Jack Michaud

You can put your softboot bindings on an alpine board, but you will be exceeding their capabilities as soon as you progress beyond carving green circles. Maybe even sooner.

I agree with Jack...

... you might try it the other way around though. Hard boots and plate bindings on a freeride board. Just make sure your board is up to it... others have shared their experiences of plate bindings breaking boards. I've used beefy Catek World Cup bindings on a Salomon FRS and a Donek Incline without any problems. These two boards have notably solid core construction, put plates on something with a foam core and IMHO you're asking for trouble.

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Guest Chris2498

Mike T I have seen people on the mountain like you said with the hard boot and free ride board whatever you call it with the twin tips. I could always give that a try but I don't know what my board is made out of. Mine does seem like it is a little flimsy.

I might give your idea a try though and I could always later buy my board then. I'm just gonna start spending lots of time here reading everyones post to start learning all I can. Thanks

Chris

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