No.2 Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hey what do you guys do when you get to a tight patch on the edge bevel? I usually give that bit a little bit more lovin' and it smooths out so that the whole edge feels the same. Now what do I do when it feels like giving it more attention is making it worse. Am I just gouging a scallop in my edge or is it likely to be just a bit of a raised (sideways) portion of the edge that needs lots more work or is is a bit of less dense edge?... They often seem to be mid side cutish as well. Got me stumped. I've under cut the edge and taken down the side wall so all the file is working on is metal. Any clues from the tune masters I just don't want to dig a whole in my side cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hey what do you guys do when you get to a tight patch on the edge bevel? I usually give that bit a little bit more lovin' and it smooths out so that the whole edge feels the same.Now what do I do when it feels like giving it more attention is making it worse. Am I just gouging a scallop in my edge or is it likely to be just a bit of a raised (sideways) portion of the edge that needs lots more work or is is a bit of less dense edge?... They often seem to be mid side cutish as well. Got me stumped. I've under cut the edge and taken down the side wall so all the file is working on is metal. Any clues from the tune masters I just don't want to dig a whole in my side cut. What is a "Tight Patch" Giving it more attention is making it worse? If so, STOP!!! What is your experience level of tuning? Could you use values? I might suggest a file holder if you are not already using one. Long smooth strokes, true bar, clean file, knowledge Don't "Learn" on a high dollar board. Tune your buddies freestyle boards :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDY_2_Carve Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Not quite sure what the question is here, but use a sharpie over your edges so you know exactly how much material you are removing. Definately don't experiment on your $1000 Tinkler! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thor VonRippington Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Don't "Learn" on a high dollar board. Tune your buddies freestyle boards :) Cracked me right up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I had that on my other half's skis the first time I tuned them last year. There was one patch in the middle that seemed to take forever to lose the resistance. I had the same feeling (oh my God, what's going on here?) and there seemed to be an awful lot of filings coming off... It did come out after about a dozen passes. Make sure that you have your edge tool flat and properly into the edge, not wobbling around. If you do, you shouldn't be able to "scallop" an edge into it even if you try. If you're not sure, take it to a pro and let them do it the first time, and then just maintain it yourself. It's a lot easier to look after when you know it's done right to start with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpalka Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 I'm not sure if this is what you mean, but Tognar talks about "case-hardened edges" -- i.e. a bump that you can get in the edge from hitting a rock, etc. Take a peek at the http://www.tognar.com/edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html#file and look at item 6 under "Longer file life". Basically they recommend using a diamond stone to file those bumps out, and I would also use a bevel tool. Other than tidbit, agree with the other posters :) I had a pro do some of my boards, and he was kind enough to let me watch the first few times, and then let me do it and critiqued my work, now I do it myself. tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave ESPI Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 If your edge is this difficult to smooth out, take it to a pro and have them put it on the machine. I've rarely had to monkey with my edges, but once mashed down from ice, I have to get them protuned, orelse I'll do more damage to my edge with a hand tuner than it is worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.2 Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Thanks for the replies guys. By tight spot I mean slightly gripyer patches on the edge. Mounds or hollows. The mounds go away with a bit of extra attention and as I found out last night the back side of a hollow feels like a mound and gets worse with attention. Checked it all out with a file and a back light sighting across the edge. Done quite a few boards now and I usually manage to get the whole edge feeling the same as I run the files / diamond stones down them. But it seems my F2 has a very slight dip in the side cut on one side. So I'm just going to work the edge around it a bit to even things out a bit. Any way thanks again guys. It's coming up to the last of the snow down here, hope you lot have a good season. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 sometimes a gummistone is good to have as well smoth it down on both the base edge and side edge and continue to work it out you'll beat the hell out of your files and take off too much material using a file in that manner, use a stone of some sort, I'd start with a coarse diamond stone or a ceramic stone if you have a spare one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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