Guest Reign Posted February 1, 2004 Report Share Posted February 1, 2004 i'm thinking about buying a snowboard sometime this year, probably more into the year like the summer so i can hopefully get some good deals, but heres the catch. i'd really like to try carving, but if i find out i'm not good at carving, i'd like to have a board that i can still use like a normal snowboard. is that possible? i was looking at the donek axis, but i have no idea what to do. also i have size 13 feet which is like 29 mongo or whatever its called, so the board can't be too skinny. also i am only a beginner snowboarder as i have only went two times. if all else fails and i get a normal snowboard such as a k2 can i still carve a bit on those? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffh Posted February 2, 2004 Report Share Posted February 2, 2004 people carve in softboots all the time. Just get a good all-mountain freeride board and carve that. If you decide that's what you like then take the plunge into a hard boot set-up. You can carve on anything. also - I have size 12 dogs and can ride a 18cm board with 65/60 angles no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marker Posted February 2, 2004 Report Share Posted February 2, 2004 I have big feet too. What I would suggest is finding a good deal on some hardboots and plate bindings and then put them on whatever board you like. With your feet, you are going to boot out with almost any board, in softboots. With hardboots, you can ride without any overhang and still choose whatever kind of board you like. The best thing to do is demo as much as possible to see what might work best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stoked Posted February 2, 2004 Report Share Posted February 2, 2004 From my average experience I would not suggest an allmountain/freerideboard nor putting plate bindings on anything other than alpineboards. I'd suggest one of the wider freecarveboards that also have bigger noses than raceboards, not too long board, good quality (for great carving later). I think it's not harder to learn drifting with them than with a freeride/soft boot setup and also later they are easier to control in general and more versatile than raceboards. Because they are wider and have bigger noses than the narrow raceboards you can even ride them in powder, just jumping around is not really what they are made for. Freecarveboards will allow carving also on soft snow/slopes whereas raceboards will burry themselves soon and you can forget about carving. I had my only spectacular accident when I carved and got cought in soft/wet snow with my raceboard. So I'd risk buying a freecarveboard with snowboard hardboots because it's still a versatile board for all kinds of conditions that allows great carving. Also there are bindings that are built higher that allow a bit more overhang. If that was helpful or not, anyway, much fun on tha slope! Bernhard http://stoked.at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Matt D Posted February 2, 2004 Report Share Posted February 2, 2004 Hey Reign, i'd really like to try carving, but if i find out i'm not good at carving, i'd like to have a board that i can still use like a normal snowboard. is that possible? Not really. Since most boards used with hard boots are around 17-22cm at the waist (narrowest point on a snowboard), and most freeride boards are around 24-27cm at the waist. So its all going to depend on what boots you choose to invest in. i was looking at the donek axis, but i have no idea what to do. also i have size 13 feet which is like 29 mongo or whatever its called, so the board can't be too skinny. Your size 13's are Mondo 30 I believe. The Axis is an all-mountain carving board. What that means, is that its primarily intended for hard boots, and semi-high angles (35-45 degrees) so that you can run bumps, trees, pow.... and rip fresh cord. You might not like it too much if you end up with soft boots though. also i am only a beginner snowboarder as i have only went two times. if all else fails and i get a normal snowboard such as a k2 can i still carve a bit on those? Absolutely! I carve all the time in soft boots. I believe soft boots are more versatile then hard boots, but you definately can't lay down as powerful a turn as you can in hard boots. Its all a matter of personal taste. There are a lot of guys on this forum that have both hard and soft setups, myself included, cause we love everything about snowboarding, and just couldn't decide on 1 setup. I actually have 5, and that is easily dwarfed by some others on this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mirror70 Posted February 2, 2004 Report Share Posted February 2, 2004 I would buy my well used but still very usable Factory Prime 167 for $30 and then find some boots and bindings to go with it (unless I had ~size 9 feet, in which case I'd buy my Burton Shadows cheap and then worry about bindings). It's not a baord you'd race on, but it will still give you a great idea of what hardbooting is all about for a "no consequences price" if you end up not liking it. But that's just me. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted February 2, 2004 Report Share Posted February 2, 2004 Get a boardercross board like the F2 Eliminator, or last year's Volkl Cross. BX boards carve the best of any softboot board, and they can be used with hardboots or softboots. Your size 13 flippers won't fit on an all-mtn carver like the Axis in softboots, at realistic angles. As a beginner snowboarder, you should probably stay away from buying a race board (new or $30 used - sorry morror70), as they are very unforgiving. Unless you are already an expert skier, then the transition might not be bad. If you really can't find a BX board, just get a stiff (sounds like you're probably a big guy) freeride board with a medium-longish sidecut radius like 10-12 meters - nothing under 10m though. (medium-longish for freeride boards that is. GS race boards are around 15m) Also check out the Welcome Center here. -Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark Jeangerard Posted February 3, 2004 Report Share Posted February 3, 2004 You can get a flatter stance by rising your binding too. Check this link: http://www.palmerusa.com/index2.html Click on Gear2004 then Power Link System. I use that setup to get a flat stance in soft boots. I love it. Only drawback is weight. They are not light. I don't even notice anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stoked Posted February 3, 2004 Report Share Posted February 3, 2004 Factory Prime 167 for $30 does that include shipping? I had a chance to borrow a yellow one once and it was the best board I ever tried, too bad they don't produce them anymore ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonerider Posted February 3, 2004 Report Share Posted February 3, 2004 Originally posted by stoked Factory Prime 167 for $30 does that include shipping? I had a chance to borrow a yellow one once and it was the best board I ever tried, too bad they don't produce them anymore ... $30 is probably not much more than the shipping ($20 via USPS). Hmm... can someone remind me how an Ultra Prime differs from a Factory Prime... like it's the shape of a FP, but a softer flex of a Alp, or is that the other way around... shape of an Alp, but stiff flex like a FP. I'm on my 4th day on my Ultraprime 162 (and hardboots in general) and after a bit of getting used to the entire hardboot setup I'm definitely enjoying it. Toesides are pretty natural, heelsides have exaggerated my bad form (butt sticking out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Matt D Posted February 4, 2004 Report Share Posted February 4, 2004 The UP is a freecarve board, and the FP is a race board. The UP was Cap construction, and the FP was sidewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mirror70 Posted February 4, 2004 Report Share Posted February 4, 2004 Originally posted by stoked Factory Prime 167 for $30 does that include shipping? Not to Austria :-) I don't know how much it'll cost to ship, but I'd imagine shipping will be in the $20-30 range, depending on location. I can work with people on shipping, but I'd rather not cover it all - at that point I may as well just donate the board. The board is actually a Factory Prime prototype, circa 1995. It has quite a few miles on it and is really best suited to someone who has never ridden plates before but wants to give it a try. As far as a Factory Prime being a bad beginners' board, that's just hogwash. I had a grand total of 3 days riding a soft setup before I got a chance to try riding plates. What setup did I get to try? A Factory Prime 164. It is a great beginners' board because it is very damped, smooth, predictable, and lacks the liveliness and pop that make boards like the RT and F2 Speedster so much fun to ride (but can literally throw a beginner off the snow). Anyway, this has drifted a bit off topic, so if anyone is interested in the board, contact me privately. Click the profile icon at the bottom of my post and either send me a PM or an email. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostertwo Posted February 4, 2004 Report Share Posted February 4, 2004 <center>Mirror, I think your idea to donate an unused board to help riders who might want to try a hard boot setup is an excellent one. It brings to mind the communities, like Boulder, that share free public bicycles. Simply jump on one (if its not being used) and off you go! I also have a well-used board that still has plenty of good turns in it. I'd be happy to donate it to an aspiring carver. <B>Burton FP 160</B>, 200 cm waist, Sidecut Radius 9.62m. Freshly tuned. Absolutely free, plus shipping.</center> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted February 4, 2004 Report Share Posted February 4, 2004 If you're serious about the FP 167 for $30 consider it sold if it still has a base on it and is usable. I tried to e-mail you, but that didn't work. If you are serious, please e-mail me. Thanks, John (jp-1@fast.net) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostertwo Posted February 4, 2004 Report Share Posted February 4, 2004 Thanks for your interest. The Burton FP 160 has a new home. Cheers, B-2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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