snovvman

I have been snowboarding for many years, having been a transplant from skiing for many, many years before that. When I first started snowboarding, I hated the soft boots and missed the hard ski boots. I eventually got used to the soft boots although I do everything possible to make my soft boots as stiff and supportive as possible. My soft set up is K2 Clicker step-ins with modified soft boots to be very stiff. The bindings are the carbon fiber, and add very little weight to the board. The boots are relatively light as well. I stand about 45-50 degrees front and ~30 degrees rear. I ride a 4807, Amp, & Supermodel. The hard set up is Raichle 324 with Intec, and some Raichle step-in bindings. I jump into the hard setup on groomers because I very much enjoy the "high" of flying through large sweeping turns and feeling the centrifugal force. Background With the Clicker set up, I basically stand directly on the board. I feel very connected to the board, have great leverage, and can move the board swiftly. The board feels very "controllable" through deep, bumps, trees, ice, and so on. With the hard-boot setup, it's great to make sweeping gouges in the snow and lay down low, but I do not feel comfortable in anything but groomers. It feels like 1) The boots/bindings add more weight to the setup, and takes more enegry to move/change direction, 2) I am standing much higher from the board itself, and somehow affecting my leverage (as in body input to affect the direction of board) efficacy. Curious questions Is what I am experiencing typical, or do I simply need to get more used to hard boots on snowboard? 1) Is it true that hard setup is not as good through non-grommed conditions, such as ice, trees, bumps, etc. I know many will say that "I'm just as good through... with hard..." I'm looking for an objective analysis here. Given the added weight and height (from the board), does it somehow change the physics of the ride? 2) Do I simply need to get more used to the hard boot setup, or will the closer-to-snowboard, less weight setup (Clicker) always be "functionally" better in varied conditions because of its inherent physics? 3) Clearly, the more mass there is, the more energy is required to make something change direction. I do believe the advantage is with the Clicker here. However, what is, then, the physics of standing higher than lower in relation to the board? How does this change leverage and operation? I know the "lift" is required to allow the board to go vertical through carves, but are there other advantages that I have not yet realized? Thanks for reading. I seek your wisdom and input. Cheers.

Thanks guys. Michelle has a replacement on the way. She explained that perhaps the wrong spring dropped into the soft bucket during painting...

Thanks for your responses. I am solely speaking of the toe-side (long) springs. The two included long yellow toe-side springs have the same height, but different coil density, different wire gauge, and different internal diameter as a result of the different wire gauge. They clearly have different stiffness. I voice it here because: 1) I'm curious as to which is the "real" yellow spring. I'm guessing it is the 15-coil version. 2) Perhaps others also have two different ones or two of the wrong ones? I wanted to compare notes and share my findings. Thanks again.

I just got my new BTS. The two long (toe-side) springs that came have different coil density (# of coils) and apparent stiffness. They are both painted yellow, but are obviously different springs. Yellow #1: ~15 coils, thinner wire, appears softer Yellow #2: ~12 coils, thicker wire, appears stiffer Is one of the yellows "mis-painted"? What is the # of coils for your yellow springs? Thanks for your input. Cheers.

Thanks for digging that up. It's very helpful. Steve said (talking to someone I know) that the Plow is actually stiffer than the Steep, which didn't make since. I thought the Plow was more of a powder/all terrain board... If Dykema is out of business, I wonder who is making them now?

Gee, how come I didn't think of that? Genius!! :rolleyes: Steepwater's website has been down for some time and there is really no "manufacture contact information". I also talked to WaveRave a couple of times, and everyone just wants to give me numbers off of the top of their head, and no one can agree on which board is stiffer. I was hoping that someone has a copy of the original description with specs.

Does anyone have specs (tip, tail, waist, sidecut radius, discription, etc.) for the Steepwater Steep 164? Much appreciate it.

With all the highly-polished finish, any concerns of sun reflecting off of the board creating glare that can disrupt riding or cause a safety issue? More sun block, too, under the chin I suppose. I have to agree, though, they look hot!

I am looking for a freecarve/all-mountain board that won't sink like lead in some light powder but can lay down a trench from time to time. It is discourging (especially in the past few years) that more and more boards are going by the way of shaped skis--with an hour-glass figure and side-cut radius of 7-9 meters even at longer lengths. As soon as a bit of edge pressure is applied, the board wants to turn. I am looking for something in the 160-175 cm range, with a side-cut radius of AT LEAST 9.5 m, preferably 10 or more. I'm looking for something in the secondary/used market, so older models are just fine. Many thanks for any insight.

I've read some threads and BTS spring descriptions, but nothing is specifically quantifiable. I am ~180 lbs., 6', ride both soft and hard boots (324). My soft boots are set up to be fairly stiff. My riding style is mostly freecarve but like the support when I go toe side. I found the five-position mechanism to be too stiff when locked, and too soft when in walk mode (especially on toe side). For my weight and riding style, should I go with yellows or blues, or a combination? Many thanks.

Me three! NDA, waiver, whatever! We can be beta testers at our own risk. Sign me up!!!

Thank you for all your reponses. This sounds like an excellent upgrade for the RAB. Fin, will it definitely become available in fhe fall? By the way, this is an excellent source for springs. Century Spring I found at least ten or more varieties (with different rates and characteristics) that fit the Intec heels. I was trying different rates to tune my left heel (goofy) so I can step in easily on the chair. JAMES.

Hello, 1) I presume that they will fit into SB series boots, even though they are only equipped on AF series boots? 2) The RAB system seems to only use one spring, responsible for forward lean/flex control/support. On the backward lean, I presume it's simply a stopping point with no spring spport? (As compared to the UPZ/Virus mechanism, which has a spring for forward and a spring for backward). 3) I've read about the modifications made to increase the backward lean travel and reduce the stiffness of the forward lean (by replacing the spring), are there any other functions or benefits to modification? 4) Side question: How do you, those who have had experience w/ UPZ/Virus boots, like their mechanism. The springs seem short, not having much travel, but certainly has more features (two springs, forward lean adjust, etc.). Many thanks! JAMES.

Drop me a note! Thanks!

Width, angle, canting, lift? Is it condition dependent? Has it changed over time? If so, how? And board length? Many thanks! JAMES.

Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one. Thank you for your reply. I realize that the elevated position is necessary for trench-digging, but are there any leverage/control-related side effect? For casual riding or mixed-terrain riding, when one must negotiate steep/bump or is required to "skid" rather than carve, how does this elevated riding position affect things? At this point, I simply feel less control. When I am closer to the board, it seems that I can go edge to edge faster. Does it just take time to get used to it and it will feel better later? Does standing taller offer some advantage (other than carving toe/heel clearance) that I am not aware of? Does the X-Bone step in sit higher than the other bindings offered by Bomber? Thanks again, JAMES.

My K2 Clicker setup puts me (via my Clicker boots) very close to the surface of the snowboard when I ride. My hardboot setup, along with Deeluxe X-Bone and step-in heels, puts me much higher on the board, away from the surface of the board. Articles seem to indicate that a bit of "lift" (in this case, I mean total elevation and not toe or heel lift) offers the rider additional leverage. I'm having trouble seeing this. In terms of pure physics, I'd imagine that there comes to a point of diminishing returns--that is--if I stand so much higher, and farther away from the surface of the board, I wouldn't be able to control the board properly and I would actually lose leverage. The hardboot setup feels unnatural when I try to stand up and when I ride. I know it takes time to get use to, it just seems more "right" when I am closer to the board. Clearly, I am new at this. Someone please educate me. Thanks! JAMES.