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Arnaud

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Everything posted by Arnaud

  1. have a look to a new system here : http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2883
  2. I suppose you speak about thermal contraction. In this case, coefficient of thermal expansion is not very different from one plastic to another. So contraction should be quite similar.
  3. here is my system, totaly integrated in the boot shape. Nothing over pass behind the boot. No risk to damage pant, no risk to touch the snow on backside turn
  4. Hi mnovak Sure that this is one reason which explain why the boots arenot affected by temperature. Stiffness of the spring is not temperature dependant.
  5. Never tested UPZ, but seen a guy with Virus boots. They looks very stiff. Less forward flex than Head
  6. Liners of Head shoes are very warm and comfortable, with a very good holding of the heel. Great boots, easy to improve also .... ;)
  7. The stiffness of any plastic used for shell molding will change with temperature. Depending of the plastic used (and it's price !) the range can be more or less wide, but anyway, it's temperature dependant. A possible way to reduce the variability is to use a spring system to control flex, instead of plastic stiffness / friction .
  8. For those using Firefox, try the VideoDownloader extension. It allow to download the vid' in flv format.
  9. Agree with Ralann. I've made some test with my Garmin GPS. Same value when carving on blue / red slope : 40 to 50 km/h
  10. Yes it's possible. I did this some years ago on an old pair of Raichle 124. Strap came from soft boots binding ! It's better to ajust clamp
  11. No ! Sam is one of the few girl from EC.com forum. I met her 2 weeks ago on the slopes My wife is a skier (on sunny flat slopes :) )
  12. some pics from Sam : http://www.csteam-aa.com/photoweb/category.php?cat=1
  13. A few years ago, I got similar injury in the shoulder. Not when snowboarding, but waterskiing ! It took me about 1 year to completely recover the sensitivity. 2-3 first month it was painful to lift my arm over the shoulder. 6 month later, the pain was no more troublesome, but I lost sensitivity and strength in arm and hand. Sometimes I had itch in the arm / hand. Thereafteer, all this troubles disappears progressively.
  14. In stock, Head boots are excellent (comfortable, warm) but somewhat stiff. Some racers like this. (extreme) carvers don't. After modifying the boots you get great forward flex and increase the effect of the spring : less effort in your legs. Modified Head boots behaviour is very similar to Northwave .900 one Arnaud
  15. No ! this is the opposite. Before using Head boots last season, I had also Raichle and rode in walk mode (even without the system). I made some test in a shop, and in stock version, Head flex is similar to Raichle / Deeluxe Suzuka (Both in walk mode) After cutting the shell, Head flexes much more then Raichle ! Let's say 15-20° for Raichle while 25-30° for tuned Head.
  16. Don't worry Mark. You're on the list. The first bunch of ACSS should be ready within 2 weeks.
  17. Yes ! ACSS is designed for Head Stratos Pro. I think other models and also older (like Blax) have the same shell. Anyone can confirm ?
  18. Great idea. Better also for me to send only one package. See on the picture. My boots are Mondo 28 size / US 10
  19. Yes, very easy to mount. Only 2 holes to drill for angle bracket screw. I never tried ACSS without cutting plastic, because I did all mods at the same time. But I'm afraid you can't take advantage of the longer stroke without modifying the boot ... Looking for a beta tester :)
  20. You're right, especially for the 3rd, but IMHO it's not the main problem. A few years ago, Jacques Rilliet from extremecarving.com move up the 3rd buckle with success. Up to now Head behaviour is great for me, but I'm thinking to do this for the new season. Note that generally I don't use the lever to close the 3rd buckle. I find it better with minimum clamping
  21. Now the boot can flex 25-30° forward ! Unfortunatly, the standard spring system limits this movement. I built a new system giving a longer stroke. It's possible to choose between three different spring combinations : standard Head + green : soft Head + blue : hard Blue + green : medium Upper nut allow hardness adjustement this works great !
  22. Improvement Step #2 To dramatically increase flexibility, remove more plastic ! At this stage, I found that the lateral screw (pivot point) touches in the hole. Increase the bean shaped hole (with a dremel tool)
  23. Improvement, Step #1 If you want only a little more flexibility, cut off the area generating friction. Dashed line show original shell outline.
  24. It is possible to decrease the stiffness of Head boots while also improving spring response. The problem with original Head There is a gap between the 2 sides of the plastic shell. When the boot flexes forward, the 2 sides touch (black arrow) There is also a lot of friction between lower and upper part of the shell. This interferes with the functioning of the spring system.
  25. You can't take apart the shell because the assembly use a rivet. So you must use a cutter inside the shell. It's not very easy because of the accessibility. Easier if you heat a little the shell near a radiator. Be careful to avoid injuries with the cutter. The best is a hook shaped blade used to cut carpet. I will translate partially the french post from EC.com, to show the necessary cut out. I'll try to do this soon.
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