Jump to content

eos4life

Member
  • Posts

    112
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by eos4life

  1. Thanks Chris! The set-up on my Prior was without any cant on my Head binding at the time and the same angles. I know that some people think that a bit of inward cant would be good because it would help to keep your knee close together. But to be honest, this is my second year on plates and I don't have a lot of experience. I'm learning slowly but I really enjoy my time on the slopes now that my boots are really comfortable. I am now using plates on my powder board. I just felt that my Flow boots weren't holding my heel down compare to my Head boots. Thanks again for the info, Francois
  2. Hello, fellow TD-2 users! I'm going to be out for the first time this weekend with my new Coiler 178 FC. I sold my Prior 169 4x4 to get my new stick since my 230 pds was a bit much for the 4x4. I wanted a board better targeted for East Coast Powder. I also bought a pair of TD-2 with the yellow ring and two 3 degre cant disk. The shop where I bought the Prior had put on my Head Binding for me. I am let's say without much experience for binding set-up! I have gone throught the 2 articles on TD binding set-up. But call me dum, I still unclear on a few points. So let me shell out my questions! Question #1: So far, I have grasp the cant and lift concept. I will start with zero cant since I'm pretty much a straight leg kind of a guy. Or do you think I should try to use some cant angle right away (I'm using 55F anf 50R to start)? Question #2: Stance width. I have read 0.6 x your inseam. Is that pants inseam or true measurement from the ground up. (I'm 6 feet tall and 230 pds)? I have tried the tape measurer method and the results is 19.5 inches. Question #3: How do we set-up that distance on the board with the center disk? (Do we use the middle of the disk to set the stance width or do we use the shortest or the widest points of the disk?) Question #4: On the board, how do we apply the same principle that we use for the binding? I'm a bit confused for the inserts width range.How do we measure the range of possible width? Sorry for the long winded message, life is short and I don't want to spend my limited amount of time on the slope playing with Allen key... Thanks, Francois.
  3. eos4life

    Burton Speed 168

    Just curious,what does Factory second stand for? Thanks, Francois
  4. This is the copy of my add a few weeks ago! For sale: Prior 4x4 169! Ideal board to start at least it was for me! Great condition: Fresh coat of wax, only minor lift line cosmetic scratches, get it for $400 + shipping. I paid $600 with taxes in January (copy of the bill available) and rode it 10 days only. When I started I had a very tough time getting used to my boots. So I did only half a day for the first 4 sessions. After that, I only started to carve on session #5 and up. Well, toeside carving and heelside lets talk about something else. I eventually got some very good advice and started to link carve turns on both side. Then I realized that the board was not optimal for the kind of snow we get most of the time (East coast powder...). My weight is another issue. In a nutshell, for hard packed to icy slopes and with my big butt, a custom board would be better for me. I want to keep my quiver to a minimum. I will order a board from Coiler that suit my objectives better. Then the only thing missing to leave some groove will be time on the slopes I hope this gives you all the information you need! Thanks, Francois
  5. For sale: Prior 4x4 169! Ideal board to start at least it was for me! Great condition: Fresh coat of wax, only minor lift line cosmetic scratches, get it for $400 + shipping. I paid $600 with taxes in January (copy of the bill available) and rode it 10 days only. When I started I had a very tough time getting used to my boots. So I did only half a day for the first 4 sessions. After that, I only started to carve on session #5 and up. Well, toeside carving and heelside lets talk about something else. I eventually got some very good advice and started to link carve turns on both side. Then I realized that the board was not optimal for the kind of snow we get most of the time (East coast powder...). My weight is another issue. In a nutshell, for hard packed to icy slopes and with my big butt, a custom board would be better for me. I want to keep my quiver to a minimum. I will order a board from Coiler that suit my objectives better. Then the only thing missing to leave some groove will be time on the slopes I hope this gives you all the information you need! Thanks, Francois
  6. I'm buying! Check your e-mail for details. Thanks Francois
  7. Hello, Kent! Could you put me on your list of future buyer for the DVD? This is a great learning tool. I started with plates in January. So far, I'm still having fun being lousy. But I would like to increase my status as a carver. Altough, the Norm and other techniques related articles are GREAT, a video would be something that would help me. My local ski hill is fairy small and only have about 5 to 10 trencher on a good day. So advice are fairly limited. The season is quickly coming to a end. But I'm already thinking of next year. Thanks, Francois
×
×
  • Create New...