Mike T
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Posts posted by Mike T
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Yes i am on the facebook page to help bring it to the states. It is basically built on the new wrx body . It has a 1.8 DIT in japan but I want the 2.0 DIT with a 6 speed ! I hope they keep the levorg name so its a sleeper to the insurance companies like my LGT 5 speed was .
2.0 DIT w/ CVT wouldn't suck, if my test drive of the WRX CVT is any indication. They did a really good job with their sport CVT... nothing like what I expected.
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I would probably go for this:
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/wagons/1502_2015_subaru_levorg_first_drive/
if they sold it in the US.
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Me too, at a 140k and still going. My body is getting pretty rough but I just haven't seen anything to make me want to sell. I have been stage 2 since 65k....
I wondered how long it was going to take you to post on this thread!! Hopefully yours hasn't been costing you as much as mine in repairs.
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One more thing. Have you checked your insurance? I just checked today. 30 yrs old clean driving no tickets accidents etc. Discounts for various things, a WRX was more than double my Tundra. The Tundra has a sticker of 9k more also.
I guess it helps to be older... my insurance would go up 40%, vs going up 25% for a new Forester XT, vs going up 10% for a new non-turbo Forester or Outback...
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Thanks Timeless- sounds like it should be fine for careful winter driving with capable snow tires, and careful driving on unpaved roads for mountain biking. That's really all I need. No need to take it camping - my wife's Outback will go on those trips.
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I had a 2011 STi sedan. anything specific you want to know?
Did the low ground clearance ever cause you any headaches? Did you do any winter driving and or driving on dirt/gravel roads?
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Are you allowed studs in Oregon ? They are not allowed where I live but were when I was a young un. Love to see them come back but I don't think people would be able to re-learn how to drive with them. ( easy on the gas easy one the brake!) Would be a lot of fun to tour around in the Subie with 4 studded snows.
Studs are legal here... I could run them for 5 months a year on my Outback... but I don't. Hakkapeliittas, or similar, have worked better for me on pretty much anything except a sheet of ice.
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@Corey - My main worry is that I would have issues getting off my street onto the main road, or get out of a <Mt Bachelor parking spot when it dumps whilst parked. I'll lookup the ground clearance of some FWD cars that I see up there often - regular Imprezas, Legacys, Altimas, Maximas, Camrys, Priuses, etc and see how much lower the WRX is.
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Wont Torsion + be a Poppy board
I find that "pop" seems to come from longitudinal flex characteristics more so than torsional flex characteristics. In other words I would expect the selection of Balance (least poppy), V-Cam (middle ground) or Energy (most poppy) to have more of an impact. This has been reflected in the Nirvanas I've ridden over time... the 174's have also as a whole been more poppy than the 182 that I've ridden.
My softish Energy w/o Torsion Plus is more poppy than the two stiffish Energy's I've ridden with Torsion Plus, at least under my feet... but again I suspect that the lengthwise flex has more to do with that. The flex on mine is "just right" in that I can put a lot of bend into it and then get that energy back as pop at the end of the turn.
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@lowrider and @Neil: Yeah, the ground clearance is most of what gives me pause. I already use a roof-mounted bike rack on my Outback, this would be no different. I'm hoping someone who actually drives one of these in snow can chime in :)
As far as being "built to last" I felt like my 2005 is about where the bodies and chassis started being less-built-to-last. My engine has held up better than the chassis and body for sure!
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Mike I carry them inside the car. The back seats fold down flat. If you have a really long board you might have to slide up the passenger seat. You could check it out on any Golf, they all work the same. There's enough room in the back to carry a bicycle, if you remove the front wheel.
I've never driven the Subie but from what I've read, the VWs are nicer daily drivers but not as fast if that's your thing.
Just doing a little googling I don't think the 2015 R is available yet in the US, but maybe soon - check with the dealer if you're serious about going dub. Audi S3 is the same platform and drivetrain I think.
Thanks Neil - I parked next to a Golf GTI the other day, his 174 skis were in diagonally. Definitely less space. The S3 looks longer? It does share the same drivetrain. The Golf R is priced more like a STI here in the US, and the GTI (priced more like the WRX) is FWD. Which, I know, should be enough with the snow tires I mention above, but I like AWD on dry curvy mountain roads too :)
S3 and Golf R are more $ than I want to spend FWIW.
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@Neil, do you carry boards on the roof or inside the car?
@Corey, had front control arm bushings replaced on my Outback... Several hours of labor costs and was warned about it in advance. I'd probably do Cobb Stage 1 as soon as the break-in period is over like I did on my Outback... Their tune runs a bit richer or so I am told -
The higher your boots are off the board, the more overhang you can get away with... I typically have about 3/8" of overhang if I clip my rear boot in and measure where the spot on the toe bail overhangs, and it doesn't seem to impact me pulling off something like this (photo credit: *Ace* - full-res shot that I created my avatar from):
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@breesomatic, can't wait to hear how she rides!
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Looking at replacing my 10 y.o. Outback XT. Toying with the idea of getting a WRX. I test drove the 2015's (both MT6 and CVT... and was surprised at how much I liked the CVT, although I'd be tempted to get the manual anyway) and was pretty blown away. Plenty of power and holy s&1t does it hold the road.
My Monster 184 fits lying flat behind the driver's seat set (set for me) w/ back seat down, with about 1cm to spare, I checked :) In fact the amount of room for boards is virtually identical to my Outback.
Of course I would need a to put a rack on it to carry my mountain bike around when I don't want to do one of rides from my house. Hopefully I can find something where the crossbars and feet are easily removable and don't leave a mark when I know I won't be biking for some time.
I'd likely put Nokian WRG3's or perhaps Hakkapeliitta R2's on for winter... those tires on a Subie AWD ought to provide all the winter traction one could want.
Looking for some thoughts from those who have actual experience which a WRX or something similar in winter. Not really interested in theories from non-owners. Don't forget my Outback XT has plenty of power... I know what it's like to operate a vehicle with nontrivial amounts of power in the snow... and am 100% comfortable with that aspect of it.
If you're thinking "why not just get a Forester XT"... I test drove that too. I enjoyed it... but the one thing that bugs me about my Outback is the cornering. I shoulda bought a Legacy GT instead 10 years ago but didn't know better. The Forester would be a step down rather than two steps up in that department... and it actually has less room for snowboards lying flat :) And costs a little more. And is about the same on gas.
Anyways, thoughts?
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Pics please! I would have loved to attend... rather than have the sway bar bushings in my car's front end replaced, only to have the starter act up the day after that repair was done.
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While I don't use the wax wizard, I have developed a technique of hot waxing over the years that generates very little scrapings. A 4 oz. block of wax lasts me a few years between three or four boards. No sense putting on a thick layer if 90% is just going to get scraped off and end up on the floor. What little is scraped off, I just vacuum up.
Ditto. I only drip it on for summer storage... otherwise I crayon it on and have figured out how much to use such that when I scrape almost nothing comes off. I'll use the wax wizard for colder waxes but for warm or base prep I will typically crayon then iron. Sometimes I nail it and there is nothing to scrape - just brush.
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Keep an eye on the weather and snowpack... It's looking none too favorable right now. I haven't been riding for several days and it looks like conditions could suck for another full week. if we don't get some snow, and fast, I could see bachelor shutting it down after spring break.
Edit: http://www.mtbachelor.com/site/tickets/season_pass/springtacular/spring_passes -Bachelor seems to think they will be able to continue to operate.
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Prior Fissile 172 with Burton Cartel bindings and Burton Driver X soft boots w/o the tongue stiffeners
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I should be able to ride with you at least twice.
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Pretty sure my liners are simply the black version of these: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Thermo-Flex-Liners-DCL-131_p_90.html
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Lots of corn on the frontside today. Outback was epic hero groom and stayed good and firm until about 1:00. West Boundary was still carveable when I left at 2. Collegiate nationals ends tomorrow so we get T-Bird back on Sunday. Saw lots of Oxxess BX boards as well as a few Kesslers today.
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In addition to heeding Jack's Toeside Problem article and keeping a picture of Bryan's picture above in mind when riding, I strongly encourage you to remember to use your feet and ankles!
This too tends to be easier on heelside, at least for me. I find it relatively easy to close the ankles on heelside and let my weight sink into my heels... which puts my weight right over my edge where I want it and increases the board's inclination against the snow.
To accomplish the same board inclination and edge pressure on toeside I find I need to open the ankle and exert pressure through the toe mounds... numbers 1 and 3 on the image here: https://yogacarastudios.com/blog/stand-like-a-mountain/. Opening the ankle in hard boots takes more effort than closing the ankle IMHO
BTW Bryan uses pretty high angles... 70/65 IIRC. If you use lower angles - I'm usually 53/48 for example - it will be difficult to replicate his exact body position.
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We can give lots of advice, but in the end, the best advice is probably to listen to Bruce. He's been playing with T+ for few years now, and if he thinks combining T+ with vCam is the best way to accentuate the positive aspects while minimizing the negative aspects, then that would be the hot ticket.
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I'm not sure the energy version is willing to be as delicate. So I'm with Bruce on this -- recommending Nirvana vCam T+.
I can see how a VCam T+ would work well... but in all fairness to the Energy, it's insanely grippy on firm to icy snow... so long as the board in question is not too stiff for the rider. My own Energy is supple and compliant under my feet. Some of the other Energy boards I've tested and/or demoed have been stiffer and I didn't do as well on firm/icy snow on them.
From the Coiler website:
NIRVANA ENERGY
This version gets a higher camber with adjusted flex pattern to deliver its responsive ride. The Energy flex pattern is biased to be more rear stiff and front soft. This increases turn response along with turn exit energy and does not require excessive nose pressuring to get the job done.
Ideal for more skilled riders who prefer a centered riding style and can use the softer nose flex to their advantage on steep or icy hills. Grip on the Energy is exceptional on firm or icy snow, where it excels.
This has been precisely my experience with my Energy... I've had it for three seasons. If you watch SES videos you'll see that johnasmo's riding is more fluid and flowy than mine, where I tend to be more aggro and top-of-the-turn heavy... I suspect that our differing thoughts and observations on the energy have to do with the differences in our riding habits.
I would argue that the Energy doesn't require one to be as delicate on harder snow... it has so sufficient bite and grip that you can ride it harder.
2015 Deeluxe Track 700 questions
in Carving Central
Posted
The tongues on the new ones don't come up as high, otherwise they feel pretty similar to the red/white ones. The tongues can, of course, be swapped.