Deuxdiesel
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Posts posted by Deuxdiesel
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Ok! PM with an address and I can figure out shipping.
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Hot water in a turkey roasting bag works really well.
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10 hours ago, patmoore said:
Do you mean this bump? I would never have noticed it if you hadn't mentioned it. Just out curiosity, when would the board have been made?
Very cool to see the marketing brochure! Thanks.
That's the bump! The board was made in 1995, and they continued to make a few after I left. I left because I didn't want the personal liability from potential injuries due to the poor quality of materials and manufacturing.
-The cores we used weren't even "second" quality. They were inconsistent and had large voids, poor adhesion between stringers and the insert holes (besides being misaligned) looked like the were drilled with a wood spade, so the inserts didn't have much to bond with.
-The carbon prepreg used was totally the wrong material. It was meant for low elongation (less than 3-4% IIRC) aeronautical use, had to be stored in a freezer (which it wasn't) and had single direction fibers, so it was terrible at preventing pull-out of screws or inserts. I tried to get them to use a bit of titanal in the lay-up, but Dave want "pure" carbon. Even the manufacturer told us not to use it.
-The "topsheet" was nothing more than Korad (sp?) that was eventually supposed to be sublimated with a carbon fiber weave to ironically give the appearance of the woven 3K carbon fiber we should have used in the first place. It offered nothing structurally.
Again, I would pay for it to have it as opposed to sitting in some museum. Ride it if you must, but caveat emptor.
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BTW, is there a tiny little raised bump on the topsheet at the nose of the board? It would be where the topsheet radius rounds over to meet the base. somewhere in transport from the CNC shop to the factory, something fell in the mold and made a small dent, which of course made a raised bump on all the boards. I think we sanded out a few, but that destroyed the paper-thin topsheet material.
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Provenance- probably the last known brochure. This women Dave hired named Jennifer created all the copy. I was hoping for a little more edgy and fun, but he was uber-conservative.
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I designed, built and tested those while working at Goode in Waterford MI. We had the molds made locally, but at $10,000 for the cavity mold itself, the 165 that I really wanted to make never came to fruition. There were so many cost-cutting efforts made on that board's manufacturing (against my wishes but to satisfy Dave's ego) that very few survived testing. I was in the co-pilot's seat on two occasions where we almost had a mid-air incident, so it's not surprising that he passed in this manner. I could go on and on about the experience working there, but it would serve no purpose. If you ever decide to sell the board, let me know.
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I don't ride with earbuds (too dangerous for me) but I do listen to the sound of the snow. That is my favorite song.
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Beautiful. I keep lobbying The Government for another one.
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I would buy a Donek tomorrow if they still offered that greyhound graphic, because there is nothing more beautiful than a greyhound...
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I would go with toe and heel lift, remove the inward cant as Jack suggested. Just a guess, but it seems like you might have a narrow-ish stance that has your knees locked up, which makes it hard to react to board movements. At 5'10" with a 32 inseam, my stance is never less than 20", and always have rear heel and front toe lifts- it gives much more command over the board and allows me greater vertical range of motion. A slight detune of the nose edges might reduce some of the hookiness you are experiencing.
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I haven't been on hard boots this year, but have always ridden with a lot of rear lean and as much upright on the front as possible. Occasionally I will add toe lift the the front foot to bring my patellas back near the same plane, depending on stance width. I guess I thought most people did this and the idea of riding with front forward lean seems really odd.
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Nitro has the Pantera model in wide sizes. The only reason I sold mine is that I had a Coiler built for me. The Pantera is an amazing AM carver, and $200-$300 less than most of the other boards mentioned here. The new shape for 22/23 is really sharpe as well. I would love to try the Stranda and the Nobile, but the dollar is pretty weak against the euro now. For that money, you can get a Coiler or Donek.
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I hear this frequently, but I still pull out my RT168 and Elan 161 for a spin once a year, and they still tear it up. The biggest change in the 15+ years since they were made is me.
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I am looking for a early Rossi alpine board. I had a "test" 163 given to me by a local rep back in the early 90's that made my PJ seem like a toy. Some later versions had VAS plates on them- bonus dollars if one of those is available. These preceded the Throttle boards, if that helps. Wall art condition is fine.
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Price drop.
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I have 2 Coiler BXFR boards and my wife has one as well. The great thing about a Coiler is that Bruce can adjust the flex, length and width to your needs, so if you are outside the typical body or foot size, it won't be an issue. Another bonus is the USD to CAD exchange rate is very favorable for us right now.
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$730? The FOMO-ji is strong with somebody.
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On 1/8/2023 at 7:57 AM, WhiteHorse said:
If your still looking, I have a "like new" pair of Flow NX2 GT bindings to sell. Size Lg.
How much? And what is the riser under the binding? It looks like a nice compact design.
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8 minutes ago, Wolf said:
New Burton Race Plate bindings came with a seven degree lift plate in the box. It looks like this photo. If that's included, you could try it under your rear binding. You'll end up with a lot of forward lean in your stance (because no toe lift on the front binding), but it might still work better than riding flat.
I have a bunch of those, but the problem is that as the amount of lift and cant are somewhat of interdependent. That is the beauty of simple shims under the toe or heel blocks.
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I was just about to suggest horse shoe wedges. They are pretty inexpensive and really durable. Depending on where you cut them, you can get a bunch of lift (toe or heel) out of them.
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Creative Playthings toys were a huge part of my childhood in the 60's. I remember they were all wood or metal, simple and durable. Thanks for sharing that eBay listing- funny stuff! We also found three flexible flyer metal runner-type sleds. Very cool, but I can't imagine using one unless there was an ice storm.
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Snowbasin, hands down. PowMow is great, massive amount of terrain, but for wide open carving, Snowbasin is awesome.
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I found this while cleaning out my in-laws attic. It was made by Creative Playthings in Princeton NJ. I haven't been able to find any info on when it was made, but I'm guessing mid-60's to early 70's. Let me know if you have any more info on it.
D.
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That is a horrific thing to do to a bat. Satchel Paige is rolling over right now.
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How much difference does a dedicated carving board make (softboot)?
in Carving Central
Posted
Every soft boot board I have ever ridden since the first Mystery Air can carve. Some better than others. The X factor for me has always been the boots and bindings. I ruined my one and only trip to Telluride by swapping bindings just before the trip. Same boots, same board, weak bindings. Mastery of the board comes from your connection to the board, and if it's sloppy (or conversely, too rigid) it's difficult get control of the input and output.