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Ronin42

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Posts posted by Ronin42

  1. Ti for edges maybe not such a good idea. SS could be intresting but it is probibly too brittle.

    How about a ipe down with some minerial oil? On sail boats they als just leave a low wattage light bulb on in the enclosed area to keep it warm enough to avoid the condensation, west marine has cool trays that hold the water from desicant.

    dehumidifiers are basicly small a/c units so...

    for longer term storage if you can compleatly cover the edges with wax then there will be little rust forming.

  2. SOLD,

    If I was a store these would be new, UPS/UPZ Size "8" or (Insole is 27 mondo as measured).

    These boots are unused. They have never been in a binding or outside of the house. I tried them on once and they are too big for me.

    The "size" is marked as 8. What I did to figure out what "8" meant, was to pull the stock insole out of the liner and measure it. It measures 26.9-27 cm I hope that tells you more about how they will fit.

    These were very comfortable boots (unlike the newer UPZ) but the flip side is they are not as stiff. In general I would say they run large for their size. Would be great beginning or powder boots.

    Any questions feel free to ask.

    $80 USD shipped CONUS others will have to pay for additional above the $25 budgeted shipping cost.

    ronin42 at yahoo dot com

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  3. #1 how to measure your foot is fine. If you want to sell a boot with an "unknown" size remove the insole and measure it in CM this will get you close to the mondo point of th boot.

    #2 we all want wiggle room for our toes, but first it is "typically' recomended and consistat with the fitting guide find the smallest boot shell that the foot has the "proper' length in. When that size is determined then the issue moves on to fitting/finding the volume of the liner, this is why thermo liners are handy.

    It is not uncommon to run a larger liner in a small boot. many boots use liners that dont fill the shell and thus provide a "more comfortable" fit.

  4. ahh 2 wood screws and good as new. (although fancy ones)

    looks like in the second photo that the small piece first needs to be pulled back together then it could be put back on the main bone. look like the once single bone is not in three or four pieces.

  5. Steve, be sure to let me know how the new old board works out.

    regarding edges the board is already tuned to 1 ish base and 2-3 ish side (note that you subtract the 1 from the base to get the 88-89 of the actual edge).

    in other words go ride the stink out of it and just follow the current edge for the rest of the season, when you put it away for the season you may want to play with angles or maybe not.

    The reason for ish is because I filed the edges by hand using tape build up for both base and edges.

  6. he reasoning for this "fudge" marking, putting smaller numbers on larger shells,

    is to give buyers the impression at the point-of-purchase that their boots fit much more

    comfortably than the others. This is the most important aspect for them to "win sales."

    It also eliminates problems of their liners being too short and unyielding for their own shells.

    The problem is that one shell size too large doesn't fit "like new" for more than a

    few days and sometimes only a few runs, depending on the factory issue liner quality.

    While "comfortable" the support, stability and control (that visceral sense of comfort)

    deteriorates so gradually that the loss is barely noticeable ... but you ski more and

    more cautiously, with inhibited control and safety. Finally, the familiar attempts with

    the stick-on band-aid shims and orthotics and alignment tricks finally give way to the

    inevitable liner replacement.

    Most skiers today bring their own or have orthotics made first when fitting their

    new boots. Then they use that same underfoot support to eliminate the variables

    and distractions of the factory issue "sock-liners."

    The next step is to choose and use one model liner when trying on a variety of

    different shells in the same (sic) size... because, the differences in the factory issue

    liners can be greater than the differences in the shells. This way you can clearly

    discern the differences and determine which shell is most compatible for your feet

    and legs.

    Then of course you have to try and buy your favorite shell with it's own liner.

    Ask to fit and match-test these new shells with an accessory liner. If you choose

    Zipfit you can save the factory liners for when you sell those tired shells ... and

    transfer your Zipfit to your new shells. Some skiers bring their own Zipfit liners

    and orthotics when they fit new boots. So consider at least trying on, comparing,

    and even demo skiing in a Zipfit liner.

    All this was a part of the fitting methodology that I launched at my Footloose Shop

    in Mammoth, in '79, during the final stages of developing Superfeet. This experience

    also prompted the realization that the liner was the essential missing link ... and the

    cause of most skier feet-boot problems ... and resulted in the birth of the Zipfit (Head)

    silicone injection 20 years ago.

    Ten years ago, when the very stiff and difficult to put on shells became more prolific,

    I began development of the Hot Gear Bag. That also began at Footloose with boiling

    (steaming) the shells as essential for fitting and for molding the shells to the feet and

    liners ... instead of forcing cold feet and liners to mold and conform to the shells.

    Fitting and molding HOT shells, transferring the heat to the liners and feet,

    is without any doubt the ONLY way to fit ski boots properly today ... and then to slip

    into HOT boots (in frozen parking lots) every day is something you will never leave

    home without after the first time you try HGB. If Bode and world cuppers use it ...

    Ah ... I can keep writing for hours on SIZING and FITTING. No wonder I never

    have time to exercise. 'senuff for now.

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