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Posts posted by Sultan Guy
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BTW, I was going to go up this weekend, probably to the same place as you, Sultan Guy (Stevens Pass?) but pre-bagged it because of the weather reports. I figured it was going to suck but I never guessed it would suck that bad. Wednesday is looking good though.
Nate- I tried to PM you but your mail settings are turned off. Send me an email so we can connect up at Stevens sometime.
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A little boy said "Are those blue things on the back rockets?"
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Went to the hill early this morning only to find a hard layer of freezing rain on top of the groom. Like an ice skating rink on its side. I did two runs and couldn't get an edge in anywhere. Not worth just sliding around like everyone else. Decided to go home and live again for another day.
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This season I am on track for 40-45 days.
I agree that it does take commitment and you need to say NO to many other things in your life that will come up.
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So here is an issue that most everyone on this forum has to deal with. Do you invest in a full set of tuning tools and learn yourself or just pay a good local shop to keep your board in top shape? At the moment all I have is an old crappy $5 house iron I bought used and some wax scrapers.
Looking through the Tongar catalog I am overwhelmed at the vast selection and cost of a full on tuning setup. $$
Is there an intermediate approach that makes sense?
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Wow...what a difference a few small changes can make.
I moved both bindings forward a quarter of an inch or one slot in the TD3 plus added a 3 degree toe cant disk on my front foot instead of the zero.
Way easier to intiate the toeside, and I could stay lower longer with less effort. A real eye opener for how small changes can have a huge effect.
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Bomber team, thanks for the suggestions. I also just got an extra 3 degree cant disk and will try that on the front foot.
Heading out tommorrow to try these ideas!
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Your shoe size is a tough issue. Get a wider type board. I am having a ton of fun learning on my first board which is a Prior 4WD 174. I think they make a 177 which might be good for your weight.
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I am in the predictable category of being a newbie who bough used glass boards to get started. I would love the chance to try out some of the new metal boards once I get better. Maybe by then there will be some used ones around :D
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Have you ever seen a broken stainless steel bolt?
Save your money for something that actually makes a difference.
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I work in the paddlesports industry for a company that manufactures high end composite kayak paddles in the United Sates. We successfully compete with Asian based brands with higher quality, better design, materials that are not readily available in Asia, and outstanding customer service.
Chris and Sean have many similar challenges to us but can and do stand above the crowd. I will gladly pay a bit more for a high end snowboard made by a smaller company if I feel it performs better.
My problem is that I am new and have only tried a few boards so don't really know how much I would pay, but if I rode a board that significantly helped my learning curve I think I would be happy paying a lot! :D
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When checking out my Prior 174 4WD he said "Is that a racing board?"
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Thanks for all the advice. I bought some Dominator GraphiteZoom and will try it this weekend.
My local shop only has crap wax.:rolleyes:
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OK, I have spent many hours on this forum reading different setup questions and have read all of Jack's excellent stuff but since I am all alone on the mountain and am new, I thought that some fellow bombers can give me some advice.
I am riding a Prior 174 4WD with TD3's mounted centered in a 19.75" stance. Front angle is 50 and rear 45. Rear heel cant is 3 inline with my foot and 0 front cant. Boot size is 28. 6 feet tall 32" inseam.
I am getting some pretty decent heel side carves but am struggling to get the toe side to initiate. I have tried Jack's suggestions of dropping the hips and that helps but it is still difficult. It seems like many people have moved their bindings forward somewhat to help this issue. I have them centered on the insert pattern.
Does anyone have some experience with this board model?
Suggestions for how much forward to move my bindings?
Or perhaps I just need to get better at dropping my hips...:)
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My first season also and I am learning on a Prior 174 4WD and having a gas. Sounds like you have a great setup. Should shorten the learning curve. :)
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I also have a fairly new pair of T700's and despite having a good bootfitter form my liners with footbeds I get a little bit of foot pain. I am still playing with the tighness of the various buckles to figure out what amount is the best. Try and go as loose as you can without causing any heel lift.
If you have one spot that is a problem a good shop can fix that by shaping and grinding.
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I have limited experience with the huge variety of wax types that are available and tried a few on an all mountain type board in the past.
Has anyone found a particular type of wax that works better for carving?
I was especially thinking of which waxes last longer on hard pack. :rolleyes:
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I have an older Prior 4WD that is in great shape. Not sure of the exact year.
Great reputation in my neck of the woods.
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i'm going to take it in somewhere to get it adjusted properly, i think. yeah, i've always ridden duck, and i guess i'll get some help in seeing what will work best for me
I learned to carve pretty decent on a regular board with angles set at F20 and R10. Hard to carve in duck stance.
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I reccomend getting the BTS system. Great modification
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I am new to alpine craving and am riding most weekends at Stevens either Saturday or Sunday morning and when nights start up 1-2 weeknights after 4 PM. Would love to connect up with some other hardbooters.
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It looks like Mt. Baker is opening Thursday the 12th and hopefully Stevens Pass the week after. I already have my pass for Stevens and am craving to carve! Just got started last April and it was so much fun. Can't wait. Stoked!
Love to hook up with some other hard booters this season.
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silver texalium which is a material which is similar to carbon fiber in strength and lightness but uses glass fibers which are power coated with aluminum
another reference-Compared to graphite, it's more durable. Compared to fiberglass, it's lighter.
I have worked in the composites world of sporting goods for over 20 years and have much experience with Texallium. This material is just basic E-glass(fiberglass) that has been specially coated with aluminum powder to give it a cool appearance. Originally developed in France for the ski industry. Not any stronger or better then other woven fiberglass just high tech looking. UV and salt water exposure are two weak points.
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We got married at the local courthouse. Cheap bliss...
One courthouse wedding-$80
One dinner afterwards at the local killer Thai place-$40
Being blessed with the perfect sexy, yoga, snowboarding hottie-priceless
Who rides both, hard boot and soft
in Carving Central
Posted
on the Burton Driver-X. My favorite soft boots until I switched to hard boots. They are definitely stiff enough to carve.