teach
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Posts posted by teach
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lonbordin, in your photo they're over the shell tongue. Booster says to put them only over the liner tongue -- _under_ the shell tongue if it sticks up that far (it does). That seems like it might not be too comfortable, but I'll try it next time. Just curious if anyone actually follows Booster's recommendation, and if not, why not.
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Does anyone use the Booster straps the way Booster says to, over the liner tongue but under the shell tongue? And are the two-layer ones "intermediate" (versus "expert")?
WW, those Shoxxter straps look beefy. What do the spoilers get you?
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Maybe it's one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Pje34fUgLQ (how do you embed a youtube video?)
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Fire Iridium are pretty dark. I use them at most once a season, when it's really blinding and there's no chance of shade. I second the black iridium recommendation. There's also a gray lens for Oakley that I like. VR50 maybe? A little lighter, so you see more detail in shadow.
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^The 312 mm shell is large enough to fit a US 13 footbed comfortably. So saying it's US9.5 max is saying that you need several inches of liner padding. You can stuff it with marshmallows, but that just causes problems. I could probably fit my foot into the 299 mm shell at US13 and then get it punched and find a thin liner. If I were racing, I'd try it. I might anyway, just for better heel hold.
A 21 cm waist board isn't much different from a 20 cm waist at size 28. That is, your angles barely change. You need to go to about 22.5 - 23+ to get racer preferred angles. I find the 20 cm boards feel a little more stable than a 19 cm board, but who knows if it's real. If you sized down to 27 or 26, you'd notice a bigger difference between 20 and 21.
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I have one, but inserts are possibly on theiir way to coming out. A little bulge. They're the outermost, so if you don't go that wide, it might have lots of life left. I could even hand it off to you if you're ever at Camelback, or want to drop by.
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My UPZ power straps started losing their power to stay fastened. They were the older Velcro ones. They worked great for several seasons, though. I put some Booster straps on in their place, and no more problems coming undone. But so far the world of difference hasn't revealed itself to me. In general, I'm pretty insensitive to boot issues, once the fit is there.
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Where did the price land? Interested. PM sending...
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SOLD!!! Red anodizing worn in different patterns front versus back. Superficial except for slight divot made (I guess) by screw protruding from rear boot toepiece.
E-rings, your choice blue or yellow.
E-pads. Blue installed, I'll include a set of yellow as well.
Cant disks: your choice: I have two 0s, two 3s and a 6 degree.
Hardware is clean (no mangled hex recesses) and fairly new.
$340 + shipping SOLD!!!
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SOLD! Bright green Spyder Mercury softshell jacket w/hood. I got this at an end-of-season closeout, but it's a little tight in the shoulders/underarms. Large usually fits me fine. If you're usually between a M and L this might fit well. $40 + shipping. SOLD!
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These boards ride beautifully but are just a little soft for me.
185 SG Full Race. This has the older "boat-hull" nose. Base is clean, edges sharp and a lot remaining (I'd say 75% or more but I can measure). Some of these are not metal, I understand, but this has the metal layer clearly visible under the topsheet. Topsheet has scuffing and shallow scratches; nothing structural. I have the newer blunt nose version of this, which is stiffer and seems just right at about 210-220 lb. So I'd say this might be suitable for 150 - 185 lbs, but I'm pretty bad at estimating this and it depends on how you ride. I rode it first at 185 lbs and it felt fine. (I'm not sure if I ride harder now or am just heavier!). Great ice grip, very damp, silky ride (the way I like). $250 plus shipping.
185 Scott Strike. Nice shape, edges a little thinner than the SG (50-60% left maybe) but clean and sharp. 19 waist, 14 m radius, extremely friendly board, works great in almost anything, fantastic edge grip on ice, handles bad grooming/soft snow/bumps really well. Same weight range as the SG, I'd say. I think stance width plays a part here, too. I think this works better at around 20" versus 21.5" or 22" I rode on it last. One heinous base scar, maybe 4" long, sideways. It didn't penetrate p-tex and seems a little too shallow to fill. $175 plus shipping.
SOLD 178 Oxygen Proton GS. This is the red topsheet one. 19 waist, maybe 13-14m scr. Very damp, excellent edge grip on ice or super firm, works beautifully until it gets soft and/or bumpy; then it's kind of a handful. This is the older flavor of metal ("Titanium") board. Edges maybe 60-70% left, base has superficial scuffs I consider just cosmetic, but a light base grind would remove them. Same weight range as the SG and Scott, and the same remark as for the Scott re stance width; wider stances like 21.5" seem to ride worse. (But maybe I was set up wrong.) Topsheet scuffed and some chips, nothing structural. $150 plus shipping. SOLD
SOLD 171 Donek Metal FC. I got a great deal on this, but it's too soft. Probably best for 140 - 180 lbs (but again it depends on how you ride, and possibly stance width). 20 waist, 11-13m vsr. This is from 2014 year, I believe, and so has the slightly longer sidecut and squarer tail compared to the current metal FC. No base grinds, edges 100%, close to mint condition with the exception of a base gouge I got at Berkshire East hitting the one rock in the whole place. Could probably be filled, but pretty minor. There is ONE ISSUE with this board, and it could be a major one depending on your stance. One row of inserts for the front binding are messed up somehow. They're there, but an M6 screw won't thread in properly. This is unfortunately in the second-from-inner row, so affects two of the 4 x 4 positions for the front binding. To avoid this, you'd need to use the outermost binding location, or use a plate (4 x 4 or UPM; the board has UPM inserts). This issue is why I got a good deal on the board. It doesn't affect me, as I ride 22.5" - 23.5" when I can get away with it. I do have a plate I'd consider selling with the board. $375 + shipping. SOLD
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+1, with extra "s"'s on YES!!!!
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OK. PM on its way, as there are a few possibilities.
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I have Burton Race Plate bindings, as well as size 28 Deeluxe Indy boots. Note that in most hard boots, a 27 and 27.5 are the same shell, while a 28 is 1 cm bigger. If your foot, supported on a footbed, measures less than 28, you probably want 27 (= 27.5). Hard boots that are too big are usually a much more serious problem than soft boots that are too big.
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Sent you a PM on the Tropical Tube 185
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I evidently have about the same feet as lonbordin. They measure about 29 cm with proper support (29.6 w/o, I think) and the "size 28" with FLO "size 9.5" liners and a thin footbed (Sole Thin Sport) fits well. Best combination I've tried by far. Fairly high instep, super narrow heel/ankle/lower calf. I still have some heel lift, but much less than anything else I've tried.
People call the FLO liners "terrible" but in my view they're well-constructed, as good or better than those in high-end ski boots. So what's "terrible" about them? I guess they don't fit the majority of people's foot shape? Not a reason to advise others against them, unless you know their foot shape won't work. I'm happy they fit mine, since nothing else I've tried does the job.
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I've got Snow Pro stepins w/heels...
Where are you riding now?
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It confuses me, too, so I just call it UPZ sizing. According to UPZ, you're thinking of French sizing...
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Great conditions at the Beast Saturday and Sunday! Nice to see the Beast carving crew members.
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A few things to consider.
1. UPZ makes shells to fit sizes specified as Euro sizes. What everyone calls the size 28 is really the shell for Euro sizes 8.5, 9, and 9.5. They have a separate liner for each size. That shell has about the same interior length as Deeluxe AF size 28. I can fit the superfeet size 13 (uncut) footbed from my street shoes into both easily, with little room to move fore-aft. The next shell size up is a lot bigger, and some sizing charts (maybe not UPZ's own) put a 28.5 in this larger shell; others put it in the 8.5/9/9.5 shell.
2. Deeluxe SB have a shorter sole length for the same size as AF. This doesn't seem to make much difference in interior length of a 28 AF versus a 28 SB. Instead, it reflects the ski binding setting needed, which is part boot interior length and part boot design. So BSL (boot sole length) isn't especially meaningful in comparing across models. But a 1 cm difference in BSL between a size 28 and a size 29 of the same boot is to be expected.
3. When you adjust your bindings, just move the heel forward; leave the toe bail where it is. The boots are actually about the same length; it's just that the heel is set way forward on the UPZ. Tweak afterwards.
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These boots look different from the Deeluxe 225/325 series, but it's actually the same shell shape. Different shape than the Track 700. You could try 225s or 325s and get the flex to suit with an aftermarket spring system (BTS). But yes, the boots look in good shape, so maybe just get some new liners. The original liners are more like the leather liners in higher end ski boots (at least mine were), so you could look for those, or similar (zipfits, Intuition Pro Tongue, etc; no thick foam sole).
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I have Power Plates I've barely used (I really never soft boot any more). I might have extra 6 degree rings, too, will check.
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On 1/31/2017 at 1:37 PM, Jack Michaud said:
How are you in a Mondopoint 28 boot with US size 13 gunboats?
I've got about one finger space in the bare shell, works great, very comfortable with the thin stock liners and a thin footbed.
On 1/31/2017 at 1:37 PM, Jack Michaud said:I don't think you can isolate your issues to board width, it could be that lower binding angles just don't agree with you.
I don't think so either. But the change in angle going from 20 cm to 21.5 cm is pretty small, max 3 degrees, and doesn't feel different when riding, but my knees are more beat up at the end of the day.
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Success depends on a lot of things, like what your current angles are. But if your front leg is getting tired, why load it up more? (Rhetorical question) Check out Beckmann's sequence for setting up bindings at beckmannag.com under "hardboot snowboarding" for a thorough approach.
Nothing wrong with 6 degree toe lift. It depends a lot on boots (not only UPZ) and their size. Intec heel compatibility makes huge ramp, probably more with smaller sizes, par for the course. 6 degree toe lift on binding reduces that a little, as Corey (and Beckmann elsewhere) points out.
How to accomodate bowlegeddness probably depends on finer details of anatomy. Is it a hip joint issue? Knee issue? Ankle issue? Lower leg curve? Upper leg curve? Foot? What works with other footwear?
SG Full Race 185 metal, Scott Strike 185
in For Sale
Posted · Edited by teach
Update on the metal FC: a close inspection shows the problem is one insert which has excessive chamfered lead-in, so only about two threads engage. That is, the M6 screw only has two turns of engagement, as the top two threads aren't really there. It's not bottoming out -- the depth is the same as the others. I've tried to get a photo but so far with no success. I will probably helicoil it; this seems like the best fix in this case.
The board is otherwise close to mint, and rides beautifully in a wide range of snow conditions.