teach
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Posts posted by teach
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The Virus bindings look like they might be made by Phiokka. I'd add Phiokka to your list.
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Best closing day at Camelback I've been to! Frozen granular gradually turning to thin coat of loose granular on ice. One of the better days of the season, actually.
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bump, make an offer
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^Gnar! I hope I can make it.
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Those boots look to be very soft-flexing (I think it says 60-70 flex on the cuff, but I can't quite make it out). You can change where the cuff buckles mount, either by drilling new holes, or using ones provided. That will allow the cuff to close down further. Maybe that'll do the trick. Foam and/or a "spoiler" (wedge at the top rear of the cuff) might be necessary in addition if the cuff still won't close down far enough.
While you're at it, check the overall fit as follows.
Remove the liners ("inner boots") from the boots and put your bare foot in the plastic outer shell. By sliding your foot forward and backward in the shell, gauge how much free space there is. You want less than about 10 mm total (or if it's a thick liner, maybe a little more). About 5 mm is a good goal if you're purchasing boots. It may well be that your boots are simply way too big. That's extremely common as far as I've been able to judge. It makes it very hard to control the board (or the skis for that matter). If that's the issue, you should get some smaller boots (for skiing and boarding).
Tons of information about getting boots to fit is available from forum member BeckmannAG's site: see especially
http://beckmannag.com/alpine-skiing/boot-fitting
When you get that somewhat worked out, you may want to look at the article on alignment.
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Nice to see full coverage at Camelback yesterday! 15" - 18" of sloppy wet snow probably helped a lot. Raceway needed more (maybe it blows off there more than elsewhere) to cover some ice floes and brown spots. They say they made snow overnight and this morning. More snow possible and low temps in the forecast for the next week or so, so it's finally looking up for some carving.
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I've ridden both and while I'm far from expert, I find a big difference between them. Buell's description of the SG as having "more backbone" is a nice way to put it. It's probably stiffer, but it's extremely damp, so the stiffness is harder to compare. The Kessler wants to conform to the snow surface (and does that really well) while the SG seems like it's got so much mass it just cuts/plows/whatever and you barely notice due to the dampness.
If I were on softer, bumpy snow I'd prefer the Kessler. Ice, the Kessler, but the SG is tenacious too. The extra feedback and softer (or just different) flex from the Kessler makes me more confident (easier to keep speed down). If I were going really fast I'd prefer the SG. Very secure feeling. Both dreamy.
Ride them both if you get a chance.
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I have some standard, long plate WC and possibly OS1. I'll dig them out and get some photos.
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I'll take the 6 if it's not gone... PMed
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1 hour ago, crackaddict said:
Threadjack: turns out the boot ramp angle is not much different between the HSP and the RC11, despite internet rumours to the contrary. I had my spare cants all ready to mount last night, but the boots didn't feel so drastically different so I undertook some measurements.
Methodology #1: place the boot shell against a wall, drop a stick in the heel and mark the top of the stick on the wall. Do the same with the stick near the toe. Now repeat with the other boot. Measure the distance between the two lines for each boot and some basic trigonometry will yield the boot ramp angles.
Methodology #2: drop a torpedo level inside the boot and put shims under the front of the boot until the bubble is centered. Measure the shims for each boot and do the math.
Results and conclusions: the difference between the gaps on the lines on the wall across the two boot models was about 1/16 of an inch. The difference between the height of the shims was also about the same. With the math, I get approximately 7.7 degrees on the HSP and 8.3 degrees on the RC11. There's some of room for error here, but I maintain the difference between the two boot ramp angles is less than one degree. (With my methodologies, the difference between the boot models is measured more accurately than the actual ramp angles quoted.) One degree is not enough to warrant changing my cants or my stance. There are better ways of measuring boot ramp angles and I encourage the folks at home to try their own method and post the results.
I've done it with MP28 UPZ versus Deeluxe and actually found a slightly greater ramp with the Deeluxe, so I'm not surprised. I think the legend of greater UPZ ramp might be correct for smaller sizes, though. I haven't measured that yet.
I don't think the RCR cuffs will solve the forward travel problem. Grab some stiff springs and tongues and I bet you'll be happy.
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A few thoughts
The black tongues are pretty soft. As lonbordin says, the silver are much stiffer -- the dark grey are pretty close to unbendable by hand.
Maybe you're just used to a feature of the HSP, the forward-travel-limiting "wings" on the lower cuff? A lot of posts here on how to hack that back to get more travel.
The super-stiff heels lonbordin mentions are also lower, I think ("same height as Northwave") so that might be desirable to cut ramp angle --- except you're in stepins... . The red are already quite stiff (and slippery). You can still get stiffer red or dark grey toepieces.
Are the shells too big? What kind of fit do you have? UPZ sizing can be a little confusing.
Possibly also the tall cuffs are giving you more leverage?
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17 hours ago, daveo said:
wanna sell it to me?
Sure, but shipping to the stratosphere is probably going to run a pretty penny! PMed you
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You may want to try both a stiffer board of otherwise similar specs, and a board with a bigger scr that's equivalently stiff to your Prior (whatever that means). If it's really the bigger scr you're after, then going longer might be your thing. More board to soak up irregularities, hold on ice, etc.
I have a 180 SG Full Carve and a 179 F2 Speedster Equipe from about the same year (2013 or 14) and they have a pretty similar ride (I think...). Pointing that out as you may see F2s available. But I prefer the SG Full Race, probably because I just like damp boards. However, I won't complain about any of them, they're really nice. Just wish there was some winter somewhere close so I could ride 'em...
Oh yeah, the Full Carve 170 is what Sigi is riding in the "Ride with Me" video. Seems to be holding up under him...
Finally, your Prior might be an older one with a round nose? The newer boards with the blunt nose have lots more edge, so a 170 SG probably is effectively longer than your 173 Prior. Obvious, maybe, but thought I'd point it out just in case.
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I actually have a Donek plate made for BX before they were banned. It's a little wider to support softboot binding bases.
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Thanks!
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Keystone has two downsides worth knowing about in advance:
1) as some have alluded to, there are lots of trail intersections making it even more necessary than usual to be looking everywhere, all the time.
2) lower elevation than A-Basin or Loveland, so it can be sloppy (or closed) when A-basin and Loveland are really nice.
Nice runs for sure, though.
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Anyone have recent Mt Snow condition report? What kind of coverage? Is grooming OK? What are the good wide green or blue runs?
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I'll take the Prior if you still have it. PM sent
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I have a couple possibilities. I'll PM you.
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Hmmm, I've got a board you might like if you're OK staying at 210 lb... maybe two... PM me if you're actually looking
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1) Get Tognar ski binding cant strips. Available in 1/2 degree increments up to 3 deg. Just cut to length (with anything.... an xacto saw would do) and drill (or poke with a hot awl?)
2) skateboard riser pads. You only need to drill a few (two?) holes. Get the solid kind.
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Plenty of proof here that the question is flawed. Many with only one board. I bet the golfers among them have just one club, too.
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I looked at my TD3s and there seem to be variations in hole placement for the toe/heel blocks. One pair is like Nitro's, inboard holes very close to the curved slot for the M8 bolts holding the base plate to the cant ring. The other pair has more space, so that a line joining the holes lies (just) behind the slot.
I've wondered for a while how much more it would cost to have the baseplate made out of some kind of alloy steel. Better failure mode, much longer time to fatigue.
I also wonder if the bindings were ridden (by anyone) with the toe block mounted closer in, so that the inboard holes were lined up with the edge of the toe block and basically right on the crease where the assembly was forced to flex (where the cant ring surface stops supporting it).
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Good to see you back, Chubz!
Hard boot binding comparison
in Carving Central
Posted
PHK seem have two basic designs. The first is the 46.6/Highlander. They come with a bunch of angled plastic shims for under toe/heel blocks. The binding baseplate is slightly off the board, so the screw lengths don't have to be spot on.
PHK also makes a binding with what looks like a Catek-like design, the H1.
On their webpage (under parts) they have what looks like a unicant-type under-binding plate.