omskates

Ursle, the donor board just happens to be a foam core (I wish it was a wood core). I was planning to use one of my counter sink bits and countersink type washers. Blue B has made some very valid concerns and I'm leaning towards cutting board material with T-nuts. I can use as many of the 8x5 pattern inserts as I want to mount the riser. I'll let you guys know and post some pics.

Yeah, this is exactly what I was worried about and the reason I posted the thread before proceeding. Thank you, I may be fabricating from cutting board material.

As many are mentioning, a conventional oven can be a very effective tool for this. However there are so many risks assotiated that one must take the extra steps to ensure no damage is done to the liners. Do your homework and plan things out for a successful result. If you continue to have doubts, go ahead and have a boot fitter complete the job for you. :)

Ted, yes you are correct I am searching out that "good washer" in particular, a counter sink type washer. Boris, I am concerned about exactly what you mentioned and have considered the cutting board material option. I've no problem with using T-nuts to fabricate as I've done that before. As Boarder_Ted commented, I feel like it should hold up with the correct hardware. Bryan. thank you for the info on the V-Plate. Very good friends of ours, have a Barfoot Woody (circa early 1980s) that his wife used to ride. It would look beautiful being seen in action during retro days at their local resort. If I can make things happen for them I'll try to get some pics to post. Beckman, yeah I would definetly only drill counter sink as shallow as possible. I'll make sure the hardware doesn't bottom out and has clearance to keep the DIY plates tight. I'm assuming these discussed DIY plates are the weakest link, so if I proceed I'll keep a very close eye on any cracking or delamination. I used to ride Morrow Multipro 170+cm back in the early 90's and those could lay down some nice carves. I remember always trying to find ways to mod my boots and bindings for better response. Should have gone hard boots in retrospect. Thanks guys for your input :)

Getting ready to make risers out of a foam core board with modern 4x4 pattern. These will mount to a new old stock board with an 8x5 pattern (circa 90s). This is mainly to change compatability interface for modern soft bindings. I'll be mounting the plates onto the 8x5 pattern inserts. You guys have any thoughts on hardware, countersinking, washers, etc? Concerns about failure and safety are welcome. Thanks for any input --Chandler

Its the same IMO, but you will get multiple opinions on this topic. I've done intuition liners for softies using the careful kitchen oven method with good results. There is also the hot rice method but I don't prefer that one. A discussion on this with good info: http://www.epicski.com/t/62530/diy-baking-intuition-thermoflex-liners

Are these marked as sold?

Funny I just noticed this thread, I was clicking in on the lift a couple times at Mt. Bachelor last Sunday. I had to pull down the chair's safety bar in order to do this and it was just myself and my buddy on the quad. Only because my bud asked me if I could do it ....... probably stoopid >.<

Both the TD1 and TD2 bindings can be upgraded to step-ins with an upgrade kit but the kit is no longer available. You can place a post in the "Want to Buy" forum. Make sure the step in heel fits your boot. I ride recreationally on a new/old stock Oxygen APX with TD1s, 45/48 and mondo 26 boots so I'm perfectly happy with these older bindings. Intek heels won't work on my boots so even if I found the kit I'd need new boots.

Really you may want to go with the lowest binding angles possible that do NOT result in boot overhang. Many GS racers are on wider boards even using 45/45 (see nick's reply). Watch your trenches to see if any boot out is occuring. Go with the width of your shoulders on stance or the distance from the floor to the middle of your kneecap. I tend to refer to Scott's excellent articles on these matters and am always happy. http://www.alpinecarving.com/binding_setup.html

I was going back to look at C5 Golfer's injury and just noticed the "first time in 64 years" part. You the man!!

So sorry to hear of these new injuries; BigD TimW, Petrol, etc. Hope you heal well. My time on crutches was 3 weeks (severe ankle sprain as mentioned before) and just now able to walk without an obvious limp, walk on uneven ground, etc. Will be going back to work at the hospital this week. BigD sprained an ankle in softies but I managed to do mine in while wearing hardboots. I was almost wondering if softies would have saved my ankle but now I'm not sure.

That's not too bad. Thought it was more for some reason. If I ever get 'spankin new boots I'll do that.

Yes, please do if you are a racer or can spare the cash. Otherwise a regular recreational boarder can get good results with the excellent instructions provided by the previously posted link. I did and I'm happy with them:) Good Luck --Chandler

That is really cool but seems like bit much just for a little more body lean. Have to face the fact that real snowboard carving creates a natural bank in the snow along which it runs e.g. 'the trenches' allowing for the C carves, extreme carves etc. On flat asphalt carving a longboard too hard will result in sliding, I don't care how sticky the 'thane is or rubber tires or whatever. You will not slide off of good grip tape so there's no need for bindings to carve. All kinds of attempts to get a snowboard, surfing feel have been done e.g. Flowlabs, T-boards, FreeBoards, Mountain Boards and I'm sure they're all fun, whatever gets you down the hill. Best way to go IMO is a good solid longboard with reverse kingpin trucks, good wheels like BigZigs etc. and learn to coleman slide and/or foot brake. Most importantly have lots & lots of fun fun fun:biggthump