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Posts posted by Buell
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One thing you might consider is braking. Just about any vehicle will tow a trailer, it's when you step on the brake that things become questionable.
One thing for sure, what ever trailer you purchase make sure you have electric brakes on it if you are pushing the max tow rating of your vehicle.
I don't want a fellow carver to have any mishaps on the road.
Don't want to go overboard on this but, like oldvolvos, I also do not want any mishaps for a fellow carver (or anyone else actually).
It would take a lot of distance for my vehicle to stop my loaded trailer without the electric brake, if it even could at capacity.
As important as stopping is emergency handling. When you are at your tow capacity, the trailer will probably weigh more than your vehicle (mine weighs quite a bit more) and can really push your vehicle around. You have no room for error, yours or someone else's.
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I have towed trailers for quite a few years for work.
I will go short distances, very carefully, at my vehicle's tow capacity.
If you are pushing the tow capacity for longer distances or highway speeds you are risking lives. Not only that, the wear on your vehicle will be significant.
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I love the spark baseplates as they give the baseplate s wider and direct contact patch to the board . Please get them to make a hard plate version that can use bombers sw ers .
Jim
I am trying. It sounds like he will do it. I'll post something when it happens.
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Most AT boot splitboarders are from a softboot background and really want to recreate the ride of a softboot while having the advantages of the hardshell for traveling uphill. We also run much lower than typical hardboot carving angles and the SW should help a lot. Obviously, the SWs may not be as great for a rider from a hardboot background who rides higher angles than most in the BC and is accustomed to the stiffer interface of alpine riding. I figure that with lower angles, more lateral flex is needed for weight shifting along the long axis of the board. At the lower angles, the additional lateral flex does not affect edge control as much. With higher angles, more lateral flex makes edge control more squishy.
I do have quite a bit of flex with my F2 toe and heel bails mounted to the Voile slider. I do still want more though for BC riding. I am planning to work with Spark to create a better slider plate for the SWs that will hopefully eliminate some of the twisting of the slider on the pucks and also do a much better job of locking the board halves together for better board performance.
I have a hard time imagining the benefit of a splitboard plate system for the downhill being greater than the effort of carrying it uphill for me. It is much different than having a lift take you up. I really like light and simple in the BC. Who knows though. If it makes that much difference, I might eat my words.
I am looking forward to 2015 when the Voile patent ends and some creative minds are freed to make improvements on the split system.
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Many users of this forum are overtly hostile towards soft boot riders and their equipment and are proud of it.
There might be a couple on BOL that meet that description. Definitely not "many."
I, like many of us, am also a softboot rider. I do not feel that anyone here has ever been overty hostile to me because of it in any way whatsoever.
People should definitely give others lots of room to choose the equipment they want to ride. Happy is happy!
Thanks for your work Jack!
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Here's one.
This is my climbing partner. We are nearing the summit. Behind him is the crater and the steam from the steam vent. There was a lot of it and it was coming out with a big hissssss. Reeked of sulfur and other things you would not want to breath for too long. Most of the volcanoes have fumaroles of different sizes. This was by far the biggest one I have seen here in the NW (still need to climb Rainier).
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Thanks for the link, I like watching that crew.
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Hey Buell, thanks for the detailed response. I had an avulsion fracture of my knee. The board is for freeride- soft boot carving, etc. Something like a Prior MFR. I've been working hard on protecting the joint by working out tons so that should help. I don't run huge angles, but more than the average soft booter.
That makes me cringe a bit. Good luck with your recovery.
I would definitely not go bigger than normal for that board.
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You have not said what you did to your knee exactly. Did you have it diagnosed?
Does freeride mean freecarve or softboot freeride? If it is a softboot board, then definitely shorter.
When I broke the bottom of my femur in the knee joint a few years ago it was a painful return to carving and really did not get truly strong again until a full season later. It is still sore after a long day of riding.
I think you have bigger things to think about than the length of the board.
If it is a carve board, I agree that you want a new school shape metal board to suck up grooming imperfections.
A bigger board could be a smoother ride, but it will also want to go faster which will add to the shock that your knee absorbs. Added speed will also create a more dangerous situation for your knee when you wreck. Start on easy runs at lower speeds and see how you do on any board.
Depending on your injury, board width could have a much bigger affect on your riding because of the different way the forces will act on your knees at different binding angles. At first, I could hardly carve at hardboot angles because of the pain. Lower softboot angles were better for me. I have seen other riders that say high angles are better for their knees.
Generally, I think that higher angles are harder on the knees because when you put the board on edge, you are effectively leveraging against the knee sideways instead of front to back.
Make sure your legs are strong around the knees. This will help stabilize the knee tremendously.
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This is still on your softies right? Those angles are scary high.
I agree. Softboots need wider boards than hardboots. Softboot angles should generally be below 40*. The boots and bindings are not designed for more than that.
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DAMN!!!
That pic on the right reminds me of watching a horror movie with the girl entering the dark basement while ignoring the light switch and scarey music. The entire audience is saying, "Don't go in there!" I would be saying,"go around, go around." Oops, told ya so.
Those are a sketchy looking pair of holes to go between. Put a rope on that boarder.
Get that splitboard and come on up! ;) JK, most of the Oregon and N. California volcano riding is crevasse free.
The bridge was solid, but the crevasse was about 60 feet deep on both sides of the bridge.
It is the big upper one in this photo. We crossed just out of the frame to the left. They are so beautiful and demand so much respect!
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Hey Neil,
Why didn't you call me! I would have been happy to ride in your lane and test some Doneks. ;)
Glad everything went well for you out here. You had some incredible weather!
Nice to hear Sean is building some great boards!
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Alright.
I am sure that somewhere in the link trailertrash posted is this information.
In most cases, binding angles are determined by board width and boot sole length. The toe and heel of the boot should be at the edges of the board for maximum leverage and to avoid boot out. For a given board width, a person with bigger feet will need to run higher angles than a person with smaller feet.
69* is pretty high, especially for modern racing technique (I think you are interested in racing?). Most racers currently ride with angles below 60*. You will find a wide variety of angle preferences from freecarvers but again, your angles will ultimately be determined by your board width. I prefer 53f/50r and with my smaller 24 mondo feet, ride 20cm wide boards so I can have my boots at the edges of the board.
If you are still learning to carve and not getting a high edge angle, you can get away with the toe and heel of the boot extending over the edge of the board. If you are booting out in that situation, you need to increase your angles.
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The rockered Tankers are great and unique boards! I put up my thoughts about my 172 here. I say go for it.
Their construction does seem to be a bit light for hardboots though. If you use hardboots, make sure you use a softer flexing binding.
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It's about time for an upgrade to the 20 yr old voile set-up:biggthump
Voile stuff works, but there is so much room for improvement.
It seems like quite a few improvements are coming down the line, especially for softbooters. Karakorum is a new company from Canada with a really interesting split hardware system and bindings. Maybe they will come up with a hardboot specific base plate or maybe Spark R&D will help us out.
Nice to at least see the SW split coming for the hardbooters. I know Will at Spark had been working on a hardboot binding with lateral flex, but I think he put it on the shelf during the prototype phase.
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I bet Fin could make a nice, strong, light base plate. We could sure use something better than the Voile slider for mounting our beautiful new SW splitboard bindings to!
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Just awesome! The ascent/descent lines are especially nice. Did you draw them in or is there some really cool GPS overlay that does this?
I am sure the GPS I have will do that, and I have seen it done before, but I am not that technologically savvy.
It took about 5 lessons from Rebecca to even know how to draw those lines on the photos (I heard plenty of, "you know how to do this"). I struggled on and even learned how to do it in red and in blue. ;)
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Boards posted to Ebay...Renn Tiger 163,Hot Blast 158, Factory prime 151,Rossi Race 15
in For Sale
Posted
For those who cannot find these boards on ebay, they are here. They were easy to find, no big deal.
Thanks for letting us know about the auction. Linking to ebay seems like a fine way to sell your boards when you are new to BOL but have a 100% rating on ebay with 160 transactions.
Cavah, a direct link to your auction would have been nice. The new Volkl is against the rules that are posted at the top of the For Sale Forum. You can edit and delete your posts. I think you would have to delete your first post and start a new thread to change the title. If you did delete your first post, it would also delete this entire thread which might not be so bad. You could start clean.