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New Member Introductions and Questions


Topgun

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Well after lurking in the shadows for a few days I decided to join and have to concusivley say this is hands down the best forum I have come across for general tuning advice. Nice to see some local Ontario Riders in here as well.

Now before you go all go and nail me to the cross (Staples and 2 part epoxies are fine) for not owning a hardboot setup there are plans to have one in my possesion for next season. One of the local Collingwood guys I ride with is a plate rider (along with his brother) and convincing me is pretty much about finding a pair of loaner boots in my size so I can get on a board.

Now for my background:

Skier since the age of 2, rider for about 5 seasons back in the days of Craig Kelly, Chuck Barfoot and Terry Kidwell. (I owned one of each)

As an elite level skier I was content with my cravings for carving being satisfied by high end carving skis. Enter new girlfriend who is a rider and I decided to convert. Well let's just say I have not been able to wipe the sh*t eating grin of my face since my last day out 2 weeks ago. Conversion was seamless and I after a few runs of blowing the dust off I was loading turns hard enough to make my hardbooting buddy give me a round of applause.

The rig: (This was as close as I figured I could get to the stiffest possible softboot setup within my budget)

Arbor Crossbow 162

Flow Amp 5 Bindings

Salomon Malamute Boots

The long drawn out detailed tuning questions: (I'm thanking anyone in advance that takes the time to answer these questions)

Waxing

- Should I prep the base (I've ridden it twice) by hot scraping and waxing it multiple times to "season" it???

- Are flouro, Moly,Graphite waxes worth the cash????

- Is a scotchbrite pad sufficient for a final step after scraping??? My process is wax, scrape, pad. Or should I buy brushes??? I don't plan on racing.

- Best way to wax a sidewall?

Base Repair

- Can I use a super fine sand paper to sand down any hairs/inconsistencies out of minor scrapes/dings?????

- I've noticed using my scraper as a level edge that I'm a tiny bit base high (Convex) from about my rear binding back. I'd say approx 1.5mm high vs the middle of the base at either metal edge. Should I get a grind???? (Don't wanna lose my Structurn base if I don't have to) BTW my binding screws are backed off. I'm guessing if I crank them down I may be less out at the edge than this.

Sharpening

- How much? How often??? Is polishing enough to maintain for en entire season??

- Only side edge, only base edge or always both edges ( I have a 1 degree bevel base and side)

- Is an edge tool going to do a good enough job for in home tuning or do I need to learn how to use a file and guide????

- What do I want to buy if polishing versus actual sharpening is the way to go??? What type of Diamond Stone???

- Will I benefit from a sharpen at the start of next season if I've ridden this rig twice? Do I just polish etc???

Once again much thanks in advance for anyone that takes the time to help answer some of my questions.

Cheers,

~TG

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Just wanted to say "welcome" from a fellow Ontarian. There are a lot plate riders in the area and, as you probably know, we are lucky enough to have Coiler and YYZ Canuck in our backyard. Too bad we have no mountains to speak of. However, we do have "Mount" St. Louis which has become an informal gathering place of sorts for hardbooters in Southern Ontario. Make sure you join us there next season.

As for your technical questions, I leave to the tuning weenies on this forum. I hot wax every 3-4 days, scrape and then brush. I'm not choosey about my wax either. I've tried flouro and that stuff that comes on a towelette and quite frankly, I couldn't tell the difference.

See you on the slopes.

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Uh lots of questions...

Most new boards can stand to be hot-waxed a few times to get the base (assuming sintered) somewhat 'saturated' with wax...but other that that, if your not a racer, then don't sweat the details. All the lo- flouro, hi-fluoro, cold, colder, colder'nell varieties... Just go ride.

Thank god for surfboards, where ya either need some, or ya don't! Simple.

ps flouro wax smoke is toxic

I like this stuff:

http://www.poorboyusa.com/site/index_fp.html

Big 5 sells it for $4.98 for the 2.5 oz tube, good for about 6 boards.

I use a small bondo spatula to apply it very thinly, let dry overnight, and hit it with a scotchbrite pad. Keeps my garage free of white wax fluff.

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I'll throw one more question into the mix for some of the local guys and gals. Anyone have a shop GTA/Barrie/Collingwood that they swear by for a tune???? I'm not to comfy having "the new shop kid" hone his skills on my gear.

Any thoughts on Sporting Life? Skiis and Biikes etc???? Anybody know anyone by name???

Thanks,

~TG

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This place has some really good tech guys. Make sure you talk to the guy working on your board though to make sure they understand what you want done...like most shops, they'll do a 0/0 bevel and just a general wax unless you ask for something specific.

Good luck and welcome to the forum. I would have riden with you next year, but am now out west enjoying the benefits from the oil-boom.

-Gord

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Topgun:

Another option is to take it to Sporting Life Boards and Bikes store on Yonge Street. Ask for Brian Spago - I am sure he is still doing the original tunes on all of Bruce's Coilers (Bruce might clarify this point).

As Gabe said, just don't leave it there and expect a good tune - talk to the person doing the work, so they understand what needs to be done.

Welcome aboard and if you want to longboard or slalom skateboard this summer - please feel to contact me.

All the best,

Rob

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Yes to everything you wrote, but:

- You don't need to wax the sidewall

- Snowboards are rarely flat. A base grind does even it out, but primarily focuses on structure and the base edge.

- I'd go 2 degree side, just my opinion

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Both Sporting Life and Skiis and Biikes are very good. Never had a problem with any board left with them.

BTW, Skiis and Biikes in Collingwood will hold a tuning clinic for free. We should get some riders together and take them up on it.

http://www.skiisandbiikes.com/waxroom.htm

I'd be down for that..........Although I must confess I did spend a few years in the "biz" and my boys across the road at Kamikaze (The owner and his brother both Alpine Riders) would probably skin me like a cat for setting foot in the "competition" ;)

~TG

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I've been looking at a good soft option not that my son is riding and growing...

I had used the Burton bindings for the last 3 years, both the capstrap system and the regular strap, and knew the failings of both pretty well and opted for a Flow system for my son...

The Malamutes have a good rep among the members here that still "soft it" from time to time...

So I think your choice of bindings and boots are good...

The Arbors I don't know much about other than they are damn pretty boards...but since I'm transitioning to hardboots on my old Custom, I can't dis you for staying with a freeride/freestyle board for now...

Once I completely beat up the Custom and my other freestyle board, I'm looking to replace them with a Donek Incline, though...I also hope, by that time, to be good enough to truly enjoy my Alp and Proto I purchased this year...

But, I think, you'll always need some sort of twin-tip board, especially when the conditions are choppy and sloppy and your thighs are tired and you just want to go switch a bit to rest-at least, I do and will

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I went to the ski shop just to confirm that I was Mondo 25.5 with the Salomon, Nordica, and Rossi boots sizers and ordered some Lemans 25-they fit just perfectly....

My X-bone bindings work great on my freestyle boards and I got them for $99

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