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Os2


scotts.Scheinman

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Has anobody ridden these puppies. I cant really decide betewwn these and TD2's. The only diffrence i know is that there is more canting on the cateks.

Ehm... the front bail in the "TD2 Standard" is very "long" (and distant from the toe): this makes you setup higher stance angles...

:-\

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What's wrong with setting back both toe and heel blocks a bit more?

Nothing is wrong! You can. Better: you must (in order to center the binding on the board!) but if the bail is 2cm longer, you have 2cm more to be kept inside the board (the only way is to make your binding angles higher!).

Very simple.

;-)

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What's wrong with setting back both toe and heel blocks a bit more?

...

Then you end up with heel overhang.

I've got TD2's and I would have to say my biggest complaint is the toe bail sticking out too far.

My other complaint about the TD2 is the spring on the heel bail gets worn out fairly quickly. I replaced the spring after 20 days of riding because it kept getting stuck in the down position.

My third complaint is that for Mondo 25 boots and smaller, you will have to undo the heel block to change binding angles or to switch the top half to another board.

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I've got TD2's and I would have to say my biggest complaint is the toe bail sticking out too far.

My other complaint about the TD2 is the spring on the heel bail gets worn out fairly quickly. I replaced the spring after 20 days of riding because it kept getting stuck in the down position.

My third complaint is that for Mondo 25 boots and smaller, you will have to undo the heel block to change binding angles or to switch the top half to another board.

I think theese could be precious information for the engineering of the bindings.

I noticed the first and third thing. I'm still not riding them so I cannot notice the second one... even if... I will mount the intec version on the rear foot so I wouldn't have the heel bail's spring problem.

But the bail is really surprising, concerning its lenght and concerning the great engineering that the bindings shows in the rest of their parts. Almost the same space I had on my old "fritschi" step-in bindings (with the step-in system in the front lever).

You are right about the small feet problem: I'm 26.5 and I've got the same trouble but... in the toe side! I think it depends on the shape of the boot. I can guess you don't have the Burton Fire? Or am I wrong?

:-O If yes.... there's something strange!!! :-D

Hope that a new lever could solve the problem...

The intec version makes me choose an angle that is about 8 degrees lower than the standard one...

:-(

Cheers

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You are right about the small feet problem: I'm 26.5 and I've got the same trouble but... in the toe side! I think it depends on the shape of the boot. I can guess you don't have the Burton Fire? Or am I wrong?

You are right. I've got Raichle SB413's.

Although my complaints are minor, it's enough to make me want to try out some different bindings.

I ordered some cheap Proflex bindings from Europe to put on my O-Sin 4807. However, the bindings got lost in transit and I'm about ready to file a claim with PayPal.

Now I might just bite the bullet and buy a pair of OS2's. I was hoping to read some more in-depth reviews on the OS2 before buying a pair.

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I've been riding the OS2s (short SI) this season and have nothing but excellent feedback. They are a distinct upgrade from the OS1 and easily my favorite binding on the market.

<ul>

<li>Yep, independent super easy cant and lift -- set it and forget it or tweak away. Every other cant/lift system is a compromise.</li>

<li>Set-up is easier, more solid and easily repeatable.</li>

<li>The new angle adjustment is flawless (easy to use and repeat; no angle creep).</li>

<li>The new OS2 tilt cups engage the tilt screws much more securely than the old divots ever did, I use almost no tilt screw tension now and the binding still builds up more solidly than the OS1.</li>

<li>The ride is identical toe/heel to the OS1, but there's more lateral compliance. It's more comfortable on snow, easier to move fore and aft and easier to make fine adjustments in a carve.</li>

<li>For step-in users, I think the Catek SI offer the smoothest and most positive engagement that I've used (Catek, Bomber, F2, Phiokka).</li>

<li>The OS2s have a very compact footprint on the board and all bails are very nicely contoured to the boot.</li>

<li>One of my favorite features is the offset (asymmetrical) mounting hole pattern in the disc. By turning the mounting disc 180* you get a much broader range of stance width adjustability than with bindings that use a centered mounting pattern. This is great for fine tuning your position on the board.</li>

</ul>

So, biased, sure, but that's my impression. Your mileage may vary.

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swt

about your second point

based on the way they look, only seen drawings, they look like setup would be quite confusing!

Id like to see some in person though.

ditto on the heel block getting in the way of the bolts here. Im in a 27 boot, but have some forward bias on the front foot, and the toe block sits over the mounting bolt at certain angles.

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Besides being more than A POUND lighter than the World Cups (about 4 ounces lighter than the OS1) they offer a bit more board flex and a result a more "natural" ride if there is such a thing. Overall weight including mounting bolts is below 4 pounds. Adjustment is very simple, and can be set over a HUGE range of lift (two sets of bolts supplied with the binding and three spacers) going way past 8 degrees to who knows where. But you still need two wrenches, not one. Quite a revolution from the OS1's.

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about your second point

based on the way they look, only seen drawings, they look like setup would be quite confusing!

Fundamentally it boils down to this:

1. Mount disc to board.

2. Mount Power Plate to disc.

3. Mount binding plate.

Pretty easy.

Long version:

1. Mount disc to board (captivating spherical nut and establishing stance position on board).

2. Mount Power Plate to disc (setting your stance angles).

3. Mount binding plate (set lift and cant via tilt screws, tighten kingpin, tension tilt screws).

Still pretty easy.

PS. Check out Jeff Caron's comments on the ExtremeCarving forum for an explanation of the elastomer under the binding. It's not about suspension.

http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1884

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Fundamentally it boils down to this:

1. Mount disc to board.

2. Mount Power Plate to disc.

3. Mount binding plate.

Pretty easy.

[/qUOTE]

So if I like to slack the bindings prior to waxing or just storing the board, i'm pretty much stuck going through your list back and forth every time? Am i? :mad:

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they sound better than the TD2's, or are they not or just diffrent

theyre just different. we've been through the bomber vs catek thing many, many, many times.

now itll be TD2 vs OS2, all over again.

thanks for the info swt...honestly they sound more complicated (said, of course, having never handled them. I felt that way about OS1 also, and actually had and rode some of those)...I just like the simplicity of my TD2s even though Im curious about OS2 just like I would be about any new alpine gear.

after reading that thread though...Im still curious:)

I cant help but wonder why yall use such wierd colors for the elastomer...lime green...bright yellow...uglay!

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So if I like to slack the bindings prior to waxing or just storing the board, i'm pretty much stuck going through your list back and forth every time? Am i? :mad:

Yep -- and it would require that you remove a whopping 3 bolts to access the mounting screws (interestingly, exactly the same number as with the TD2).

Really, I'm not trying to make too much light of it -- loosening the mounting screws certainly can add a few minutes to your waxing time if you're working with a large number of boards. That said, if the 2 minutes per pair it might conceivably take to access the mounting screws is the most onerous demand on your time, I envy you.

FWIW: F2s, Phiokkas, Burtons and SnowPros all offer quicker access to the mounting screws.

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Just another thought that moved me to bomber instead of catek (after some other evaluations):

I wrote Catek an email to ask for some information (I think it was about the 20th of december 2005) and they didn't answer me.

Bomber did.

I'm still giving so much importance to the customer care...

Cheers.

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Ive always gotten great response from both companies. Jeff and Fin/Bob are very, very cool cats, perfectly willing to share info

keep in mind, Richard, that Jeff is pretty much the only go-to guy at Catek (obviously others know the stuff, but theyre not Jeff) and Bob/Fin at Bomber. Michelle knows her stuff, but obviously Fin and Bob are the main men.

theyre small companies...sometimes they take vacations, etc...emails get lost...

try again?

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on my coiler, talk about bling factor, so shiny

kinda like a platinum grill for a alpine snowboarder

setup was easy, the only thing I had to look at the directions for was the where the little O rings go

the only advantages that the TD2 really offer are the suspension probably works better and that with the with adjustable length of the toe bail on the stepin model that is handy when you wear down the toe pads on your boots

One OS2 feature I really like is the two sets of king pins, if you want a TON of lift you can have it without having to buy more parts

both bindings are so damn solid maybe I will put a catek in the front and a bomber in the back :biggthump

I will post a head to head evaluation once I get on the hill with them

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