Steve Dold Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Tomorrow is my first day of the season, so tonight I took my 178 Renntiger out of the bag to wax, and I noticed convex bumps in the base where the inserts are. So I took the bindings off and found corrosion in the inserts! There are bumps and corrosion on the tops of the inserts too, even the ones that didn't have screws in them. The screws are still shiny. Needless to say I'm not 100% pleased with this situation. Apparently, after riding it last season, I just tossed it in the bag, wet, where it stayed all summer (and then some, thanks to the slow start we're having). I can't believe I did such a jackass thing. I must have been drunk or tired. But I guess if my misfortune can serve as a warning to others, maybe it won't be for nothing. This thing won't even make a good wall ornament because it's just a long, black dull-looking board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Id say its far from ruined! maybe get some 3 in 1 and thread screws in and out of each insert. the binding suck just happens...doesnt kill boards... definitely dont put them away wet, but...hell...if youre gonna ditch it send it to me! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I wish it was binding suck. The bumps are poking outward, both top and bottom (just saw your message below, Kirk. Thanks for the sympathy ). I'm not sure how that happened, and how it relates to the corrosion, unless it's because the inserts are corroded in areas that are expanding their thickness. Also, I just noticed my Swoard is edge-high, almost the whole length of the board With a true bar I get about 1/16" clearance down the center. I'm not sure if there's enough base and edge material to let me have it ground flat again. What a fine piece of workmanship. That's my incentive to stay on the edge, I guess. I hate snowboards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I noticed convex bumps in the base where the inserts are. So I took the bindings off and found corrosion in the inserts! There are bumps and corrosion on the tops of the inserts too, even the ones that didn't have screws in them. The screws are still shiny. Convex or Concave? I have perhaps a different picture in my head. Convex means that they protrude outward (bubble). Concave would be hollowed inward. Either way Steve, sorry to hear about that - bummer :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Sorry to read about the RT Steve. Good thing the Swoard is in better shape, in fact I like edgy carveboards. Just put 1* base bevel and you are good as gold. Seriously, I've had two carveboards with lower edges and both were as good or better than flat. Let me borrow the Swoard for a week to make sure it's ok...bwaaahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Sure, you can ride it Jim. Hey, where's that place you and Hugh have your boards tuned? Maybe I'll dump it off there tomorrow. This is sort of off-topic, but someone (I think it was you Jim) asked me to post a pic of the tuning stand I made out of lumber and pipe insulation that clamps into a Workmate, so here they are. It works pretty well, I can scrape no problem and not have to hold the board, or clamp it. The thing took about ten minutes to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dragon fly jones Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 place in a hot box for 30-40 minutes and it should "relax' the board and it should return to normal. This has happened on the past - it is a bummer but there is a way to recover the damn thing. One caveat is that if there is internal damage say you rode it way hard and cracked the core, side wall, split the inserts somehow then it may be done. Other wise never give up hope and try the hot box. Before trashing the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy S. Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Steve, if you want to try the hot box and a good tuner, there are two options in Truckee, w/in 1/2 mile of eachother. One is Granite Chief (go on a weekday and ask for Soren to do the work for you). The other is Start Haus. Both are on Donner Pass Rd. and both have hot boxes. If you have to leave it with them for longer than you'll be up here, I could pick it up for you next weekend and drop it back in Sac on my way home. I'm doing that for Arvin this weekend. Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I've never heard of a hot box, that might be the answer. DFJ, as far as I know there is no internal damage and the base-highness seems pretty uniform down the whole length of the board, so I might be in good shape. It's funny, I just built an oven for powdercoating that this board would fit into, but I'd better leave this to the experts My record in dealing with boards isn't good right now. Randy, I really appreciate the offer. I need to go up to Truckee for work pretty soon, so I might be able to pick it up, but I may take you up on that if it doesn't work out. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 or possibly did some water get under the screws and then freeze thus expanding? I have fixed this with a flat chunk of metal and a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted December 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 The screws aren't too long, they are about 1-turn short of bottoming out. I'm pretty careful about that (there's another story). I don't know about freezing, I guess it's possible. A flat chunk of metal and hammer, huh? Cool! I could try a belt sander, but I'd have to do the whole topsheet to make it all even. For the base I could set a couple of concrete bags on top and drag it down the street behind my truck. That's even it out. About one block should do it. I'll go buy some cool shelf paper and put that on the topsheet, so at least I'll have SOME sort of graphic for the wall. Maybe some flowers or ducks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Im wondering if perhaps you could drill tiny holes in the base, use a syringe and squirt some epoxy in, clamp the bumps to flatten them, then hit the tiny holes with a bit o' base weld and ptex...? seriously...you sound pretty bummed, and I know the feeling but I dont think youre screwed. like others said dont give up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tufty Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 Im wondering if perhaps you could drill tiny holes in the base, use a syringe and squirt some epoxy in, clamp the bumps to flatten them, then hit the tiny holes with a bit o' base weld and ptex...? That would probably work if it was due to overlong screws or freezing, but if it's corrosion on the inserts themselves what's causing the bumps is still going to be there, so it's going to be somewhere between tough and impossible to clamp them flat. Worth a shot, I guess, though, as a Renntiger makes expensive firewood. What sort of corrosion is it? Rust, or bimetal reaction? It seems odd to me that Völkl would use rust-prone metals in something that is liable to get wet and stay wet, hidden under the bindings (whether you put the board away wet or not). I don't know how Völkl are about these sorts of things, might be worth contacting them and asking if there's anything that can be done. Complete insert replacement might be do-able, but liable to be expensive. In any case, I'd personally be very cagey about the possibility of core damage, especially given the hammering we give planks. I've seen bindings rip off before, and the results are not pretty (to say the least), even on a freeride board. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hjalmar Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 If it is just corrosion you could first try to get rid of it by inserting some Cola (the real thing) or some anti corroding fluid (don't know what sells in the states). Watch out if you have a light colored base (cola makes it brown). Leave it to work for a night and all (most of it) corrosion should be gone. Make shure you clean and dry the inserts afterwards. I don't know if this will solve your issue, but just my two cents. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnovak Posted December 30, 2005 Report Share Posted December 30, 2005 I wish it was binding suck. The bumps are poking outward, both top and bottom (just saw your message below, Kirk. Thanks for the sympathy ). I'm not sure how that happened, and how it relates to the corrosion, unless it's because the inserts are corroded in areas that are expanding their thickness. Also, I just noticed my Swoard is edge-high, almost the whole length of the board With a true bar I get about 1/16" clearance down the center. I'm not sure if there's enough base and edge material to let me have it ground flat again. What a fine piece of workmanship. That's my incentive to stay on the edge, I guess. I hate snowboards! Steve, what year is your Swoard? Wondering whether edge high is a design of the board or whether it comes from usage. How do you wax it if the whole center of the board is below the edges? Cheers, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 Mark, the Swoard is one of the older ones. I think they were made by Duret maybe? Not one of the new Virus ones. The waxing iron I use has a small footprint, so it's not too hard to do. It's harder to scrape though, I use a metal scraper and I can't easily take all of the excess wax off the center area with the board the way it is. The corrosion is light grey or white, looks like salts from some kind of galvanic thing going on. I forget how that works. I rode the board today, it's still my favorite board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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