mikemcse Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Has anyone here attached intec heels to the new UPZ boots? I am trying but the screws that they come with are quite a bit bigger including the head of the screw. They come with a screw that is threaded into the plastic that is quite burly. I am thinking I have two options 1. T nut it with a different bolt (but the hole is already drilled out larger than what I need) Or 2. Drill out the intec heel holes to accomodate the larger screw (seems kind of sketchy to me but probably the only option). Any advice would be greatly appreciated from anyone that has faced this. thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cfj04 Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 From the looks of those, I would definetly recommend that you have a metal threaded t nut on the inside of the boot. When you convert from standard heels to intecs, you are now placing tremendous load on the heel piece rather than on the boot ramp. This means that you need to have a solid connecting between the heels and the boot. If you simply modify the heels, be prepared for a ugly event when the screws strip the threading on the boot and your boot/foot/body releases unexpectedly Take a look at your old boots and you will most likely see a metal insert that your intec screws thread into. With luck, those (or new ones) should pop into the hole that is already there and off you go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 what the hell is THAT?!?!?! Ive never seen an intec screw that looked like that. Granted Ive only installed maybe 5 pair, but...? are you saying those are the screws that came with your heels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 oh oh...those are the screws that hold the original heel on... yeah...dump those, get some that fit the heel properly, and use t-nuts at the other end imo edit...heh..that speedster RS looks TECH in the background. coiler next to it, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschurman Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 You need to use the scews and Tee nuts that come with heels. However, I would suggest getting hex cap M5 20mm bolts as a replacement for the phillips screws that come with the Intec heels. If you no longer have the hardware that came with your heels I'll send you some. But you should not need to drill anything and never drill those Intec heels! ->Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Absolutely use the screws that came with the intec kit as well as the boots 'emselves. thats what i did with mine last year, and yes i did thought it was a bit big. turns out its normal since i swap it quite often between ski din modules and intec step in modules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateW Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 When I Intec-ed my UPZ, I put T-nuts into the boot and used machine screws to hold the heels on. With bail bindings, the heels are is always being squeezed onto the boot, and those self-tappings screws probably work just fine But with Intecs, the heel is frequently being pulled away from the boot. It seems to me that self-tapping screws will probably strip out with much less force than it takes to pull the T-nuts through the sole of the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotts.Scheinman Posted October 30, 2005 Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 how do you like thoes upz boots and din modules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted October 30, 2005 Report Share Posted October 30, 2005 When I Intec-ed my UPZ, I put T-nuts into the boot and used machine screws to hold the heels on. With bail bindings, the heels are is always being squeezed onto the boot, and those self-tappings screws probably work just fine But with Intecs, the heel is frequently being pulled away from the boot. It seems to me that self-tapping screws will probably strip out with much less force than it takes to pull the T-nuts through the sole of the boot. Well I could do that, but since I change it quite often, I use loctite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemcse Posted October 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Thanks for the replies guys (Cfj04). I wont use the existing screws on the boots or drill the Intecs. Dsub- yes those are the screws that come with the heels. When I took the heel off It gave me a bit of a shock too. That is a coiler AM 177 and a F2 RS with the conshox and td2's on it in the background it looks pretty trick. In the past I have always drilled out the boots a bit and t-nutted my intecs. These boots are different though. One thing that bothers me about it is that the hole is quite a bit bigger than the bolt and t-nut that comes stock with the Intecs. I am thinking about trying to find a slightly larger screw and tnut with the same size head so I dont have to drill the intecs and attach them using blue loctite. Oh yeah I dont think I will be able to use my zip fit liners in them since the tounge has too much material and they smash the top of my foot. Probably will have to invest in new thermafits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemcse Posted October 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Ben- Thanks for the offer of the hardware. I do have the original screws and T-nuts. I am also waiting for Fin to get stock of new Intec heels so I should be ok. I used to work in a shop and had access to different sizes of t-nuts and hardware but I don't really have that luxury any more. If you know a good source that would be appreciated. Thanks also for the advice about the heels. I kinda figured it would be a bad idea to drill the intecs, hence the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Gee, no thanks to me? -ass mooning- nevertheless, at least you got some answers to your questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschurman Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Ben- Thanks for the offer of the hardware. I do have the original screws and T-nuts. I am also waiting for Fin to get stock of new Intec heels so I should be ok. I used to work in a shop and had access to different sizes of t-nuts and hardware but I don't really have that luxury any more. If you know a good source that would be appreciated. Thanks also for the advice about the heels. I kinda figured it would be a bad idea to drill the intecs, hence the post. The best place that I have found to get all things hardware nut/bolt related stuff is at McMastCarr.com www.mcmaster.com ->Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemcse Posted October 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 That site looks good with a good selection. I have never seen it before. The only issue I see is Qty.The minimum you can get is 100 units. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschurman Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 That site looks good with a good selection. I have never seen it before. The only issue I see is Qty.The minimum you can get is 100 units. Thanks Mike Well, sure you end up with a lot of things but I end up giving them to my riding buddies or away here on bomber. The price is reasonable for 100 of something. The thing is that local hardware stores don't have metric stuff oor they aren't in stainless so it's tough to get what you want. You may want to try the nutty company too. www.nutty.com. Not sure what their mins are and their web site is not as good but it may work for you. ->Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Well, sure you end up with a lot of things but I end up giving them to my riding buddies or away here on bomber. The price is reasonable for 100 of something. The thing is that local hardware stores don't have metric stuff oor they aren't in stainless so it's tough to get what you want. You may want to try the nutty company too. www.nutty.com. Not sure what their mins are and their web site is not as good but it may work for you.->Ben Tell me about it. My number plate of my husky bike only took metric. only thing available at truehardware is chrome stainless steel. 2.98 or so for ONE. -wince- While we're on metric, I just acquired an old Lib Tech Emma Peel solely for their last line of productions of usin' 1/4 bolt (1997ish or so) simply for reasoning they're easier to get from the store. I had the original one but it was stolen out in Mt Hood, Oregon some time back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemcse Posted November 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 Gracias for the info. That includes Lee... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groovastic Posted November 25, 2005 Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 Mike, have you tried those boots at extremly low temperatures, about 0 F? My boots get veeeeeeery hard when it's so cold and it's very hard to carve in them? How do you cope with that? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeW Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 To any/all of you that ride UPZ boots, I can't stress enough how important it is to consider what is keeping you attached to your board. If you're using STEP-IN bindings (of any manufacture) and haven't put T-NUTs in your boots to secure both the INTEC heel pieces AND the toe pads... you're tempting fate. Just my opinion... if that's worth anything at all! Lemme get this straight. T-Nut as in T-bolt ? I exchange from ski modules to step-in often and on daily basis. Is this bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemcse Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 I just rode them for the first time this last week and I noticed that they defenitely stiffened up alot in the cold. Hard as hell to get on your foot too. Time for new liners for sure. I didnt t-nut the front part yet as suggested. Not sure how that will affect the whole din ski binding setup. I did have a bit of a time getting them adjusted to the right length with the intecs and td1's with lots of micro adjustment necesary to get them right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tufty Posted November 28, 2005 Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 I just rode them for the first time this last week and I noticed that they defenitely stiffened up alot in the cold. Hard as hell to get on your foot too. Time for new liners for sure. That would worry me. I drive a chairlift, and see a _lot_ of broken (ski) boots when it gets cold (below -5c or so) and although it tends to be older boots that have taken a lot of beating, it's models that are noticeably 'stiffer' in the cold (we particularly see a lot of busted Nordica and 'Trappeur' boots, I've had both and they really do stiffen up). Seems to be red boots more than any other colour, so maybe it's related to UV ageing as well. Not seen any busted board boots yet, but we don't see many hardbooters where I work. Small 'family' resort, mostly skiers. Oh, and Hi. Only just found this place. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin Posted November 28, 2005 Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 Simon, Welcome to Bomber Online! Great to have more input from our "across the pond" carving brothers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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