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Did i get a board that is too stiff?


Colozeus

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You can't compare a Burton Custom to a F2 Eliminator Carbon 153!

The one has a 7.3m SCR the other one a 10.3m SCR. Build with carbon inside You should make way wider turns, or push it much harder with Your legs.

SBX snowboards are not good for carving, they are build for to go straight downhill as fast as possible. You wouldn't find turns on a SBX course which are usable for to carve. The turns there are allways banked.

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You can't compare a Burton Custom to a F2 Eliminator Carbon 153!

The one has a 7.3m SCR the other one a 10.3m SCR. Build with carbon inside You should make way wider turns, or push it much harder with Your legs.

SBX snowboards are not good for carving, they are build for to go straight downhill as fast as possible. You wouldn't find turns on a SBX course which are usable for to carve. The turns there are allways banked.

 

I'm starting to realize that. 

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Glad to hear of the success when back on soft boots, and that's great that you're working with Bruce on a custom board.  You'll find that length and SCR he's going to build you to be very slinky.  My Kessler 168 has an 8-12M VSR, and even at 175ish lbs, I can pretty much fold that thing in half.  

Oh nice! I like "slinkyness" especially on the narrow slopes. 

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My thoughts go to your angles: 30/20.  That is very shallow for hard boots, and by keeping them that low, you aren't able to leverage the board as the boots were mostly intended: lateral pressure with your knees.  Have you tried widening your stance?  What degree discs do your bindings have?  Have you tried widening your stance while playing with the angles?

 

Hard boots aren't soft boots, and need to be ridden differently to achieve good results.

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Hey Jim.

 

 Why do you see hbs and low angles as a bad combo? In my experience, it was just more "reactive", adding an element of power and support I didn't have with sbs. Getting other things right, in terms of width and overhang were key, but once they were dialled in, the boots weren't out of their element.

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I'm with Rob on this one. I ride a duck setup on a Prior MFR when teaching absolute beginners and have 0 problems with it. I can also drop into most challenging free ride terrain on it and do just fine. The biggest trick is to have bindings set right and that they are flexible enough sideways.

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While I agree with you guys that hard boots CAN be used at shallower angles, especially with freeride setups, for carving purposes running super shallow angles, IMO, can be detrimental to leveraging the board.  With soft boots, running higher angles is somewhat prohibitive in that the boot and binding combo are very laterally soft, allowing for more slop and less power transmission from input to board than many like.  Likewise hard boots, in their rigidity both medially and laterally, can work with shallower angles, but by going super shallow you lose out on the ability to pressure the binding in an efficient manner laterally, losing out on that added knee drive and input to the edge.

 

And like you both said, you can ride hard boots at very shallow, even duck angles.  You guys are seasoned riders, with years of know-how under your belt.  But is what you are describing the most efficient means of using hardboots, especially for someone new to the interface?  I would be curious to see info as to the effectiveness of the boots at 45* vs other angles, as that would seem to be the median angle for achieving optimum medial and lateral pressure.

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