Mr_Orange Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Do proflex or F2 bindings come with heel lifts....? I heard that they do but the person wasn't so sure. And by heel lift i don't mean the whole binding tilts. I mean lifts to take up room if the height from the bottom of your sole to the top of where the bails clamp down on isn't sufficient enough. This is the problem I'm worried about shown clearly in this image: I have a AT boot (garmont megalite). This is for splitboarding. Asked on splitboard forums and nobody knows about this particular thing. Heard this was a common issue for trying to put Ski/AT boots on plate bindings. On my garmont megalites, the height from the bottom of the sole to the top of where the bails clamp down on (in the heel area) is 28mm. Maybe this is already good enough? I'm partifculary interested in the proflex bindings because i can get a good deal on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I've run Crispi and Scarpa AT boots in Proflex Ti (precursor to F2 Ti Race) bindings with no issues. F2's have heel lifts that mount under the adjusting block- they change the height of the assembly relative to the base plate, but do not shim between the boot and the block to adjust relative bail length/ height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I guess it depends on the boot. ....any chance i could get a heel block measurement (the height from the bottom of the sole to the top of where the bails clamp down) from someone who has no issues with boot and proflex/f2 binding compatibility? This includes non AT/ski boots too. Pretty much anyone who uses deeluxe or upz with f2's.... Sucks there isn't a nearby shop where i can go and test this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 do clip binding heel bails have the same profile as intec binding toe bails? if that is the case you could use F2 stepin toe bails, which have adjustable bail height, as the heel bail. they don't fold down, of course .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 They do not. It's similar, and may work with some boots, but it's not the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Looks the maybe the intec toe bail may not even go high enough from these pictures? Anyone here with intec's wanna take a look? F2 INTEC Toe Plate Assembly (Medium):http://www.yyzcanuck.com/store/F2-INTEC-Toe-Plate-Assembly-Medium.html F2 Race Heel Plate Complete (Medium, 6mm)http://www.yyzcanuck.com/store/F2-Race-Heel-Plate-Complete-Medium-6mm.html And are the proflex and f2's similar enough to where you can put f2 parts on the proflex's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Mr Orange, the photo link in your first post in bad. It goes to the old forum. Perhaps upload a photo to the new gallery or a link in a new post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Looks the maybe the intec toe bail may not even go high enough from these pictures? Anyone here with intec's wanna take a look? And are the proflex and f2's similar enough to where you can put f2 parts on the proflex's? having thought about this a bit further, i won't advocate it any more. the intec toe blocks have the bail retained only by the plastic adjustment nuts, rather than a 90deg hook and lateral retaining channel. given the very stiff interface at the rear of intec bindings, the toe blocks may not be designed to withstand the sort of lateral forces using them as heel pieces would cause. perhaps someone with too much time could press a new set of bails that have a lower engagement height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 the intec toe blocks have the bail retained only by the plastic adjustment nuts, rather than a 90deg hook and lateral retaining channel Ya, doesn't seem like it's worth the risk. Btw, has anyone even modified their boot sole? Maybe i can take the boot to a cobbler and just have a thicker sole put in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 buy a plastic chopping board of suitable stack thickness, some epoxy, and a hacksaw. build up the binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Ya, always could resort to that. Or maybe screw down a piece of UHMW PE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 That is ALLOT of space, not good!! Some F2/Proflex have adjustable bails other do not. Perhaps you could find the adjustable ones, frankly I am not sure they would take up that much difference. Looks like 3/8" to 1/2" space from the photo!!! = Bad!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 That's not my boot in the photo btw. Someone else posted that. My boot heel area looks very similar in thickness though. They said when the toe bail is clipped down, it still locks everything together, but the heel is actually floating if you just have the boot in there with no weight on it, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 Yep. BAD, there should be good contact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Note- I am NOT advocating this. Is it just the plastic "hold up" shoulders preventing the bail from rotating back and thus allowing the heal ledge to contact? Lots of folks ride in DIN ski boots, which usually have a lower stack height then AT boots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 I'm actually not sure. All i know is what i see in that photo and what i read from a few other threads. I can tell you the stack height of my heel area is 28mm on my AT boot? Maybe it's not even an issue. How does it compare to your Deeluxe/UPZ boots? Im new to using plate bindings and was set on buying some proflex bindings until i bumped into this issue. I'm hesistant to pull the trigger on it because i have to get it shipped from Europe. Wanna try to dodge the return shipping prices. In the mean time i already ordered some Spark dyno dh bindings because REI sells them. Probably more than what i want to pay for, but it's the only binding I can easily test out. Anyone know shops in California or nearby that sells plate bindings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 There are plenty of other options. Burton Race plates are some what popular for splits. Getting a good deal from Europe can be sketchy unless you are sure. You can pick up any number of other bindings for a good price. Send you some Burton Race Plates for between 100-175$ depending on options. I think the Dynos should do it?? Bomber bails and levers Looks like Fin has been holding out on us? Did you not get the rights to sell there bindings in the deal :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 UPZ with Fintec's measure 34mm Crispi Diablo AT at 34mm Nordica SBH 30mm All from table to lower edge of the bail seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Mr. E, thanks for the measurements. Looks like my 28mm is gonna be an issue. If everything is in the 30mm+ range, im sure most bindings are probably designed to accomodate that. I think I'll just make my own shims. Seems like the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kieran Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 I think the Dynos should do it?? Bomber bails and levers oooh. they look nice. Hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Not a problem. Just adjust your bails to clip in tight, the heel bail would bend down and sit snug against the boot block. I ride the ski boots so I'm very familiar the issue. I use the Proflex / F2 RS Carve for moguls, freeride, jumps, so the bails potentially take even more abuse then for carving only. Never had a problem with heel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Ordered the proflexes. They're on the way. Tried the dynos and it had the gap issue so i already returned it. Not a problem. Just adjust your bails to clip in tight, the heel bail would bend down and sit snug against the boot block. I ride the ski boots so I'm very familiar the issue. I use the Proflex / F2 RS Carve for moguls, freeride, jumps, so the bails potentially take even more abuse then for carving only. Never had a problem with heel... Someone else mentioned this too. I might just try the proflexes first without modding and see how it feels. Do you think it's worth upgrading to the 6mm bails? The yyzcanuck site sells them. I think proflexes come with the 5.4mm bails right? I weigh around 155lbs. I'm going to be doing freeriding, drops, & jumps as well. Edited December 31, 2014 by Mr_Orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) If you already have the bails and they are in good shape, stick with them. If you are changing due to fit, age, or damage, the 6mm bails will be modestly stiffer (even though the toe and heel blocks they anchor to will stay the same). Edited December 31, 2014 by Mr.E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Orange Posted December 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 The proflexes are supposed to be brand new so ya, the bails are in good shape. I read in a few threads that people have broken thinner bails which is why i was wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Mr. E, thanks for the measurements. Looks like my 28mm is gonna be an issue. If everything is in the 30mm+ range, im sure most bindings are probably designed to accomodate that. I think I'll just make my own shims. Seems like the way to go. Since the sole of the AT boot will compress ever so slightly when loaded, make sure your shims are glued/screwed into place so that they don't "walk" and work themselves out of place. IMO, you're better off switching to a binding where the heel bail pivots rather than one that is fixed. To me, it's not worth the potential injury risk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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