Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Mtn Bike Suspension


Gtanner

Recommended Posts

So I managed to land an amazing deal on a dual-suspension bike in amazing shape (Norco EXC 1.0 FS for $500...some people just don't know what they have). Its about 5 years old and I think that both suspensions need servicing just as a precaution. Although the whole drivetrain and brakes need a full tune, the wear and tear is minimal.

Should I pursue getting a shop to do the suspension or can this be done as a DIY project. I am a bit of a wrench in that I can take apart and repair the full drive-train (mostly on road/TT bikes), but Mtn bike suspension is a new realm for me.

What should I budget? Located in North Vancouver if that helps.

Thanks.

-Gord

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might have more luck in Van that I do in Calgary with getting suspension done. All the shops around here insist on sending stuff back to the factory.

There's a guy in Nanaimo called the Broken Bike who can likely do the rear shock. I've used him, he's good. Fast turnaround and good work, about $100 for a full rebuild.

Fork, I dunno. I'd try calling some of the LBS's and seeing if they have anyone onsite that can do a pulldown. I'd be surprised if there wasn't at least one shop in Whistler that could do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you say 'suspension' are you referring to the front and rear shock or all the rear pivots? Like Allee suggests its best to have some knowledgable person rebuild the front and rear shock but as for the pivot bearings those easily replaceable by a garage mechanic. I have done a few bearing/bushing replacements using various size sockets from your tool box and a vise with brass jaw plates to protect your frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would suggest Different Bikes in North Van or Republic in Squamish. Both have great reputations and should have the staff to help with shock/fork rebuilds. You could also stop in and talk with them about doing it yourself. Depending on the make and model of the shock/fork you might be able to get a rebuild kit and do it yourself. Pivots and bearings are definitely easy to replace yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the recommendations. Yes I was referring to the two shocks specifically. I'm not too concerned with the pivots at this point.

DB had the highest quote by a fair margin, hence why I was questioning a DIY option. I have no interest in spending more on shock servicing and a tube-up than I did on the whole bike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear the DB quote was so high. If it still has the stock Manitou Skareb, you should be able to order the fork rebuild kit from Jensonusa.com for about $20. The Swinger SPV 3 might be a bit harder but Jenson might have an after market rebuild kit for it as well.

Btw, congrats on a steal of deal. That is a super price for that bike.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rock Shox Psylo on the front (which apparently was stock the last year they had the model). 4" travel....if it's going to cost me an arm and a leg, I may consider a new fork with a bit more travel.

I may research the rebuild kit. From what I can tell (i.e. via youtube) seal replacement and re-fill with oil isn't that big of a deal. Now on the rear, I know that's a different story.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unless the shock is blown, i wouldn't worry about servicing it; more or less no maintenance devices. the fork could probably benefit from a basic clean & lube (unless the seals are leaking, which are easy enough to swap once you've pulled the lowers). check out the service manual - process is easy enough if you're mechanically inclined, and can be done with no specialty tools. just need to pick up some fork oil, which can be bought cheaply at any moto shop (i buy mine at the yamaha shop across from cove bikes on main).

http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/oSTvOJS-L0Xv_XpocR3FF1bUTW7YCqVVgakX5nvriDk/mtime:1297962021/sites/default/files/techdocs/99_04DualAirServiceGuide.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok that's good to know. My concern is that the front shock "lock-out" doesn't always engage, and the rear shock has a "+/-" lever for more/less sag that I don't think is working too well. My thought was that I'd have to get the rear re-charged with N2...the front on the other hand, may just be a bleed/seal.

Maybe I'm being picky.

Thanks for pointing me to Yamaha...hadn't thought of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not totally sure this is what you need but it is an example of what's available on youtube.Most factories have tutorials on youtube.When I got back into the bike biz after being out of the loop for a few years,I referred to youtube often for rebuilds where I worked.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Yl0GdF0w5hI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok that's good to know. My concern is that the front shock "lock-out" doesn't always engage, and the rear shock has a "+/-" lever for more/less sag that I don't think is working too well. My thought was that I'd have to get the rear re-charged with N2...the front on the other hand, may just be a bleed/seal.

Maybe I'm being picky.

Thanks for pointing me to Yamaha...hadn't thought of that.

The +/- is for the rebound of the shock, not to set sag. Hmm, could be why it didn't seem to be working so well. Sag is set by the air pressure/spring weight used.

Ink

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...