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TD1 Standard Rear Bail


Chubz
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Folks

I am new to alpine and recently picked up a set of TD1's (standard) and my most challenging thing yet is getting the rear boot into the rear binding. I'm old and not as flexible as I used to be. The rear bail of the binding is semi-loose (stands on its own) and falls flat when I attempt to slide my boot into it. I have tried to tighten the bail but it remains loose. any recommendations to keep the bail rigid or methods to ease binding entry would be greatly appreciated. It is my understanding that the newer TD1's have a spring but the ones I have do not.

Thanks

Greg

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....is there anything they can't do?

Though I think Mark Anderson's donut is a better suggestion here, I'll offer what I've done in the past until I can afford to send the bail to Bomber for a retrofit.

I use one of those micro bungees (from a dollar store or ChinaWal-Mart) and hooked one end to a bail stem and ran the cord underneath the baseplate (and in front of the disc) and hooked the other end to the opposite side's bail stem. I also use a set of needle nose pliers and close the hook ends of the bungee around the bails. They usually hold for a season and then I change'em out. PSR taught me that one years ago.

Now that I have TD2's I don't have to worry with this problem anymore.

Mark

post-101-141842200157_thumb.jpg

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Hey Greg, I assume they arrived safe then? Wish I had known about those 'Fixes" , good ideas. Another one that is not nearly as good. If you take one shoulder bolt off and either bend the bail out a little bit or place a turn on one of the bails. This sort of puts it in a bind and it doesn't move so freely. I doubt if that solution will meet with many takers , perhaps a few cringes? Those moved very well and they were adjusted really good for my boots. So I left them alone. They didn't get used much after I bought newer bindings. At 47 , I enjoy the step-ins ALLOT!!

Enjoy!! Bryan

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Hey Greg -

I'm a TD1 standard holdout. It helps to have the board really stable - you may already be doing this, but just in case:

Wherever you stop to clip in, you'll want to make a little trench directly across the slope to lock the board down. Do this by standing on your back foot, just in front of the board; dig a trench by kicking with the toe of your front foot (and the toe edge of the board) behind you. Kind of like knocking mud off the bottom of a shoe. Now place the heel edge of the board in the trench, transferring your weight to the front foot and shifting your weight back so you're standing on your front heel. Notice you're making a ledge to stand on with the heel edge, not a ridge to keep the toe edge from moving.

Then go about sliding your back heel into the binding.

joe...

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If you're too lazy to cut up a bike tube, head down to your local NAPA or Auto Zone and ask for some nitrile rubber O rings that will slide over the head of the bolt. Just slide one in between the base and the clevis and tighten the bolt. The rubber is flexible enough to not get damaged, and at the same time creates enough friction that the floppy heel syndrome is solved.

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It is reassuring to know that some other folks have experienced what I have been my first couple days of hardboots and bindings and it wasnt just me.

I continue to love the support that folks provide on this site and keep kicking myself for not getting into this style of the sport earlier. I have plenty options to choose from and will put one of them to work.

I had already purchased some nylon string to attach to the bail until a permanant fix could be out in place.

Thanks Again.

Greg

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