upz rc-10 / bomber td3 standard fitment

[healside]

Any issues with upz rc-10 boots and bomber td3 standard fitment? Im considering a boot purchase, however, if theres any compatibilty problems with td3 standards and upz rc10s, I know the answer can be found here. Thanks for the insite.

Steve

[Corey]

They fit well together.

However, if you have a foot smaller than a Mondo 29 or 28, then the toe and heel blocks are so close together that you block access to the angle adjustment bolts. You can flip the blocks around, but then you lose the hard stops that keep the bails upright - which is one of the best features of the binding if you ride on small hills with frequent in/out of the bindings.

[Guest]

I have mondo 25 boots and the flipped bails is no big deal for me.

[pdube1]

Hi,

I'm new here, I just purchased my first carving gear. UPZ RC10 boot size 25 with TD3 sidewinders binding. Can you please tell me if it will be required to flip the bails? Or by don't flipping the bails I just loose access to the angle adjustment bolts?

Sorry for my ignorance, but could someone tells me what is the "hard stops" feature on the binding???

Thanks

[energyrail]

Because of the heel on the upz is pulled in so far. In order to center the boot on the board you may need to flip blocks for that reason.

I have had my upz's in td3 standards the front bail is tight on the sides of the boot. It will be tight on the sides and the front at the same time.

I don't like it but people live with it.

[pdube1]

Ok, and what about loosing the "hard stops" if I flip the blocks? Do you know what is "hard stops" feature exactly??

[Corey]

You'll definitely need to flip the heel block around. I tried SideWinders once with my size 27 UPZ boots, I flipped the rear but was able to use the front as normal. You may have to flip the toe as well. I think you may block one of the 4x4 bolt locations as well with the block.

Hard stops keep the bails from falling down. i.e. when you're stepping in, if you knock the bail with your heel it'll fall down until it hits the binding or board as there are no springs on the bails like there were on the TD2. You'll then have to reach down and pull the bail up manually before trying again.

[pdube1]

Got it. Thanks you for the information.

[Flywalker]

From everything l have read and in my own experience there is no need to pay attention to the centring arrow on the RC10. l just set the blocks equally distant from each other, centred them on the binding base and rode.

l have size 27 as well and haven't flipped the blocks, however setting the bindings up was a real pain in the ass with the screws covered up by the blocks. Once all the trial and error re: sweet spot search was finished it was a non-issue, though.

Edited January 26, 2013 by Flywalker

[pdube1]

Hi,

I got my first ride yesterday after waiting 1 month for my board to arrive. My boots are UPZ rc-10 size 25-25.5. I did not flip the block and the adjustment is just perfect when putting toe/heel adjustment at the shortest. (My boot may not be centered, but I don't see any issue with this so far...)

However, I got an issue with the adjustment toe/heel plates which come loose!! Chance is that I've verified that after my first run. I have to re-tightened the adjustment bolt and tight the bolts VERY VERY hard. At a point where I'm afraid to strip the bolts.

Do you guys has had the same kind of issue with TD3 bindings?

Thanks

[Hilux]

Hi,

I got my first ride yesterday after waiting 1 month for my board to arrive. My boots are UPZ rc-10 size 25-25.5. I did not flip the block and the adjustment is just perfect when putting toe/heel adjustment at the shortest. (My boot may not be centered, but I don't see any issue with this so far...)

However, I got an issue with the adjustment toe/heel plates which come loose!! Chance is that I've verified that after my first run. I have to re-tightened the adjustment bolt and tight the bolts VERY VERY hard. At a point where I'm afraid to strip the bolts.

Do you guys has had the same kind of issue with TD3 bindings?

Thanks

To begin I have size 27 RC10. As for boot centering, I have fiddled with trying to get it exact to the center of the binding disks but it never worked out. I got to the point where I was trying to center everything, boot to center of binding, toe and heel blocks equidistant (relative to holes on plate) but I found that my toe and heel from the boot never lined up to the edge quite right. So I estimated the binding angles first by aligning my boot toe and heel to the edge without overhang with about a 5 degree splay, then adjusted the toe and heel blocks accordingly. The toe and heel blocks are set quite different on both bindings and I have them biased ever so slightly however the setup so far has worked great.

As for the bolts, I've never had any problem with mine coming loose. Perhaps some loctite is in order?

[pdube1]

As for the bolts, I've never had any problem with mine coming loose. Perhaps some loctite is in order?

Actually, I don't think the bolts themselves got loose. I tightened them up pretty much the first time (the bindings were brand new, there was already some blue loctite on the bolts) but it sounds like not tightened enough because the plates slide a little bit. So after I tightened them up as hard as I could they seemed to be ok. But I'm afraid to strip the bolts by having to tight the bolts too much...

The adjustment plates are metal on metal with flat surface, no little teeth or anything to prevent the plate from sliding. So it sounds like the bolts need to be tightened VERY much!!

Should putting loctite between the 2 metal surfaces would help or it would be worst?

I would not like the boot to get out of the binding during carving!! :-s

Thanks

[Corey]

What tool are you using? Even the basic L-shaped hex key that comes with the bindings should be sufficient to lock the toe/heel blocks in place. Wild guess: 3 or 4 lb-ft of torque should be sufficient. A quick Google search suggests a max of 7.8 lb-ft for an M6 bolt - that may be too high for the aluminum baseplate.

Note that there are distinct 'pockets' for each bolt in the blocks, the bolts must be in the pockets and not on the ridge between them. (see picture here) You can do this easily by lifting the block up so it's in contact with the bolts as you spin them in. You can feel the block move forward/backward so the bolt is resting in the pocket. Other than that, I'd take the blocks off and ensure there's nothing between them and the plate.

The design is quite robust and proven, if the blocks are slipping then something is wrong.

[pdube1]

Note that there are distinct 'pockets' for each bolt in the blocks, the bolts must be in the pockets and not on the ridge between them. (see picture here)

With TD3s, the bolts don't sit on the red block on the picture you referred, the bolts sit on the alu block under the epad, maybe for that reason I didn't see those pockets. Anyway, I got the point and maybe I was just between the two pockets as you said, that would explains why it slides.

Thank you very much.

[pdube1]

And if at the shortest I'm not in a pocket, I will need to flip the block. :-(

[Corey]

With TD3s, the bolts don't sit on the red block on the picture you referred, the bolts sit on the alu block under the epad, maybe for that reason I didn't see those pockets.

Regular TD3s, not Sidewinders, right? This comment makes me wonder if the bindings are assembled properly. They should look like the bottom picture on this page: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/TD3-and-SW-Parts_c_47.html

The bolts that hold the blocks should be clearly visible and should not have anything between them and the blocks - or anything between the blocks and the baseplate. The E-ring goes beneath the cant ring, it should not be anywhere near the toe/heel blocks.

Also, you'll likely need to flip at least the heel block with the UPZs to keep the boot centered.

[Hilux]

Perhaps a thread jack but still on subject...Corey, I see you have 27m. How are yours set up, ie toe/heel blocks relative to plate and edge of board?

[pdube1]

Regular TD3s, not Sidewinders, right?

I'm sorry for the confusion, my bindings are TD3 SideWinders.

[Corey]

Perhaps a thread jack but still on subject...Corey, I see you have 27m. How are yours set up, ie toe/heel blocks relative to plate and edge of board?

I set mine up so the toes and heels of the boots are right over the edge for each foot. Actually, for the front foot it's a little biased towards the toe edge as the UPZ upper cuff seems to stick out to the outside of your foot further than the heel by a little bit. Note that I'm using step-ins. The front binding's blocks are two or three 'pockets' ahead of the rear binding to accommodate this. The step-in heel block is almost as far forward as it can go.

[pdube1]

I finally found out what was the issue with the block sliding out on td3 sidewinders... It actually is a problem in the design in the bindings. When you have to use the most inner screw block hole (very small sole lenght like me), the bolts are just a little bit too long and they sit on the cant plate under the block, so it is not possible to screw them down enough. So i though they were really tight but in fact they were not sitting properly in the pocket. By hand it was not possible to move it but with the force applied when carving was enough to get the bolts out of its pocket.

The solution has been to grind the bolt a little bit so now they are shorter and then can be screwed down totally.