ecshredder Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 The ability to slow yourself down carving heelside on steep/hardpack conditions on a normal freeride board with softboots and angles about 15deg. I always build speed up on heelsides. I saw a guy doing it once but with much higher angles. If it is possible I guess I'll keep trying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddy Tat Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Should be possible, but the heel-cup overhang at 15 degrees is going to limit how tightly you can carve a turn on heelside to control your speed. That is to say from looking at your avatar I don't think you could put the board as high on edge in a heelside as you have it on toeside without burying the heel cups and lifting the edge out of the snow. In order to solve the geometrical issue you could try a riser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeho730 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 I don't think so, unless you get free ride boards from reputable alpine board manufacturers eg coiler donek swoard virus etc... I can't point out exactly but I recon flex pattern for average freeride boards is "wrong" for g-force carving. And with 15 degrees rear there will be boot out at the heel cup. I fount it out hard way, tried with never summer Titan and ended up dislocating my left shoulder due to washout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Well, if there is space, you could always hold the carve slightly uphill, to controll the speed... Or just "slarve" ever so slightly to increase the friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 I'm not going to touch this one. Ok... it's possible. 24/9 with flows=no heel cup drag. But I do get a bit of a warble in my heelside especially when the legs are done for the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 (edited) Definitely. Skill and setup are the key of course. As stated, you need to minimize boot out. This can be done with board width. risers, binding angles, and properly centering your boot/binding on the board. When setting up bindings, it's important to look at possible angulation, not total overhang. Lay a straight edge against the board edge and the boot to see what angle you will boot out. You'll find both feet are centered differently because the board is narrower at the heel on the front foot and narrower at the toe on the back foot. Check out this video: Edited April 7, 2012 by Donek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srodeo Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 what does he mean by "this"? Am i missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 what does he mean by "this"?Am i missing something? The ability to slow yourself down carving heelside on steep/hardpack conditions on a normal freeride board with softboots and angles about 15deg. Not worded particularly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.