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I am NEVER buying a metal board again!


Flywalker

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Reading here and there I've found that titanal thickness is in

Virus mm 0.4 , Kessler mm 0.3 and Tropica Tube mm 0.4

So in my mind I have two questions:

1 How can that small thickness of an alluminium alloy can give all that advantages?

2 How could be a problem bending 0.4 mm of alluminium?

Could we say that the problem is the delamination of the titanal layer?

Maybe the major problem are the glues used and not the titanal itself?

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Don’t think so. Anyway, felt like sharing here that I rode my Virus Cyborg Bling (plain polished Titanal topsheet) with Cateks and “without” any Poly protectors for years and had zero issues at all :eek:

The board was sold to a good friend of mine end of last season in still really great condition. No issues with the metal topsheet, still pretty much all camber... (I hope it will last many years to come ;)).

So, maybe I am mistaken, but to me, I have to believe that not all metal manufactures use the very best quality out there :nono:, or they don't know how to work with it so it lasts.

In case a new metal board I like comes along, bring it on!!! Plain polished or just clear coated, no diff :cool:

Cheers,

Ray

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Mr. Shred...

Those Oxess boards, especially the one on the left, look VERY nice. l'll have one of those in a 170/20cm please :D

Just found out today from one of my race team members that l need some sort of special insurance here or l can't enter a race. Apparently, if l already had this insurance it would cover the cost of replacing my board.

Nice to learn this now. Insert four letter expletive here :angryfire

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Composite's are complicated every material has it's own physical property elasticity, tensile strength ,coeficient of thermal expansion, porosity etc etc blending all these for the desired results, under various conditions temp, pressure, atmospheric conditions, dust on surfaces as well as material preperation make's it a wonder that these variables can be harnessed to produce the products we almost take for granted. Until something goes wrong few question their durability. Without Epoxy it would not be possible to blend these materials and get the results we have today. I would guess that most failures are a result of abuse in some form that results in your board experiencing very unusual deformation. TD1's did it on metal boards by concentrating a load effectively creating a dam against forces that would normally transfer across the entire surface of the board. The elastomers on later bindings solved this problem. I believe a plate on and board would further reduce the possibility of failure. Like those head on car crashes in other posts absorbing energy is your friend. When undesirable things happen i would gladly trade a delam to my board to the other possibilities. Remember when riding your board that everything sandwiched between the top sheet and the ptex is being flexed repeatedly and any fibers that happen to break in the process stay broken until some time when too many have broken your number is up it's not a matter of "if" , it's when! The best indication of a board in trouble are things like loosing camber, wrinkles in the top sheet as well a nicks in the titinal around the inserts or along the sides of your board, filing nicks smooth along the middle of the sidewall is a good idea to prevent the nick from growing. To answer the question how can bending .4mm aluminum result in a failure. If it's not driver error or a design flaw (mistake) it's fatigue, titinal is aluminum that is hardened and hard stuff usually cracks before it breaks look for the signs. You are riding down a hill on a bundle of harnessed fibres enjoy the ride till the bundle breaks !:biggthump

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