TLN Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hello. I'm a total newbie in alpine. Now buying my 1st setup. And need your advice. I'm 230lbs and about 2m tall. Feet are US13. Already get the boots: track 325 with standart liners. So.. what should i look for a board and bindings? Bindings i think something like: TD2-TD3, F2 race ti, or whatever? What board to get? Some local riders advice to get a longer one. more then 180cm. Can i say, that with my weight the longer board i can get is better? What models i should look at? Any opinions are appreciated. I see Prior 4WD 179 on sale on a local forum for $400. There's 70-100 in spec list. If this is a right choice for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transistor Rhythm Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 F2 titanium bindings are already very good, especially for a beginner. People win worldcup races on them. That's good enough for me ;) What kind of snowboarding do you want to do? Extreme Carving, or short pumped slalom turns, or more like all mountain with some powder and moguls while you're at it? How many years of softbooting experience do you have? Are you already carving? I would advice a SL or more all mountain type of board to beginners, shorter boards are easier to turn and will carve at slower speeds. Riding longer boards while not have the necessary skills was a bit of a waste of time for me. Imagine yourself doing carves on a steep red or black slope with a 20M radius. Even if you do have the muscle to hold those turns you're still scared ****less as a beginner! ----- That 4WD could be a nice board as it's wider, not a huge radius and still a bit bigger and stiffer because you're a big rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Well, I'd prefer wide turns, lay downs and bigger speeds. Short turns not for me. local slopes are far from ideal, but i won't go off the slope. I got NS for a powder. Now i ride NS legacy-R 174 with Ride CAD and Salomon Malamute. All except the board is the stiffest i can get. Will post some shots of me on a softies later. I ride for a full 5 year. I understand that super-WC-narrow boards is not for me. So i'm looking for all mountain. The question about the lenght. Some girl from here ride 180 custm Kessler and says get the longer one: you're tall and weight a lot, so you can handle it. She advice something 188 or about. 20m radius is too much, but 12-14 is ok, isn't it? Can we say that 4wd 179 is a nice choice? It's better, as there's no need to ship it overseas, which would cost $100 for a board... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transistor Rhythm Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 A 179 4WD has much less contact length than the Kessler 180, that exists almost entirely of effective edge because it has almost no nose or tail. The Kessler also has a much bigger radius (I see 17 meters quoted somewhere, 19 for the 188!) than the 4WD. The Kessler 162 has about the same radius as the 4WD and that's definitely a SL board. EC boards are about 12m, but you have to keep in mind that not every radius of 12m behaves the same. Both Kessler and Swoard boards are soft compared to earlier race boards, so they bend more while carving, changing the effective radius too. Still I think the 4WD will be a good crossover board that still sees use after you've bought a bigger board and you should be able to get very low or completely laid down it with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Well, that girl takes part in WC races and got 9 (at i remember) boards, 6 or more are custon kesslers. And that kesslers are much different from what i need. Also i understand that radius is not the only thing i should look at. That nose stiffness and all the other specs makes sense too. But i'm just a bigger newbie, who want to get right stuff for his first moves. Still I think the 4WD will be a good crossover board that still sees use after you've bought a bigger board and you should be able to get very low or completely laid down it with it. That's nice. Can someone list the board i should look for, beyond that 4WD? Some doneks, f2's or whatever else? But that 4WD seems to be in nice shape and looks pretty sweet for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transistor Rhythm Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Swoard 175XH could be good for a guy as huge as you. Nice width, and the flex is pretty soft (but it can be stiff compared to a lot of factory boards because those boards arent built for your weight/height). But you really need to stick to the rotation/push-pull/extremecarving school of riding, this is not a Kessler-style racing board that launches you into the next turn. Donek and Prior can do a custom board, as well as some more expensive boardmakers (like Virus). If you're looking at importing a new or used board from America already, I would go custom. F2 Silberpfeil Vantage might be good too. But a lot of stock boards might just be too soft for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Donek Blade 180. http://www.donek.com/blade_crv.html As for bindings, I am biased, but for good reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Swoard 175XH could be good for a guy as huge as you. Nice width, and the flex is pretty soft (but it can be stiff compared to a lot of factory boards because those boards arent built for your weight/height). But you really need to stick to the rotation/push-pull/extremecarving school of riding, this is not a Kessler-style racing board that launches you into the next turn.Donek and Prior can do a custom board, as well as some more expensive boardmakers (like Virus). If you're looking at importing a new or used board from America already, I would go custom. F2 Silberpfeil Vantage might be good too. But a lot of stock boards might just be too soft for you. If i got enough money, i'd definately go custom, but for a 1st board i gonna take something cheaper. I'm trying to check that 4wd 179 board now, photos, etc... Donek Blade 180.http://www.donek.com/blade_crv.html As for bindings, I am biased, but for good reason. Will try to find that used Donek. That loooks nice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 For a first board you can't go too wrong with anything that's not terribly old. Long boards are wickedly fun - once you know how to carve a board effectively. If it stunts your learning because it scares you, then it's a waste of time on the hill. There can be a macho "mine is bigger" effect that wraps up a lot of people, don't fall into that trap. Especially if you only have narrow runs - a big board royally sucks in those conditions. If you have a smaller budget: I'd recommend trying whatever you can get your hands on. The 4wd sounds like it would be a great first hardboot board, they're generally a little softer than a dedicated freecarve board so you don't have to work as hard to make them carve. It'll be a bit wider too so you don't need to run your angles as high. If a budget doesn't even enter your mind, you want the best: Order a custom from the manufacturer you like the most from what you've read. Donek, Coiler, Prior, Virus, Tinkler, Kessler, etc. They all make some beautiful product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 If you have a smaller budget: I'd recommend trying whatever you can get your hands on. The 4wd sounds like it would be a great first hardboot board, they're generally a little softer than a dedicated freecarve board so you don't have to work as hard to make them carve. It'll be a bit wider too so you don't need to run your angles as high. I can cay that wider is better for me now, but if this is a bit softer... If this is good or not for me? If a budget doesn't even enter your mind, you want the best: Order a custom from the manufacturer you like the most from what you've read. Donek, Coiler, Prior, Virus, Tinkler, Kessler, etc. They all make some beautiful product. I understand that custom is best for almost anyone, and if i have such a budget, i'd go that way, but i got lack of money and skill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bora20 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 I was in your shoes (or boots) a year ago and could probably chime in. I am 5'9 and 220lbs. I went through a few sets of stuff, but here is what I can suggest. Boots Buy brand new boots, buy all . Have them fitted to your feet at a boot fitter. Bindings Get TD3 or TD3 SI from the start. The bail stops alone are worth it over the TD2. Go here first, don't buy any others, you will regret it. Board Get a shorter board to start with a large sidecut. I went for a 4WD 179 (10.5) and it was hard to handle while I was getting the hang of things. Shorter would have been better. I was able to demo a few boards from Prior and once I rode the FLC metal, the 4WD was up for sale and I ordered a metal Coiler. The metal was so much easier to ride and felt longer than it actually was due to the larger sidecut. So after my 1.5 years of buying and selling gear, this is what I ended up with. UPZ RC10 TD3 SI with Fintec heels Coiler AMT VSR 168 11.5m 21.5" waist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 That TD3 SW and boots cost way more than i'm going to spend. And i need a board. Hope i can handle that 4wd, as i'm 6'5 or about. 4wd aint a final decision, so any opinions are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bora20 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Costs much more to buy things twice...just saying The TD2 are great as well, just a bit more work to get into vs. the TD3 due to the lack of bail stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transistor Rhythm Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Maybe you should keep in mind that for someone not from North America the price difference between TD3 and F2 is much bigger. I would definitely buy TD3's if I would live in America because they're just $70 more expensive, but in Europe you pay €350 for them while F2's are easily found for €170 - that's twice the cost! About new boots: I've tried a few shells buying them second hand off eBay Germany. That way I found out Deeluxe 700's just don't work for me, although it's a good boot. I could only find that out by riding them, as they were right in size and did not show obvious problems while fitting. Also I could get some practice in cutting and modding without the danger of ruining brand new boots. If I were you I would definitely try to hook up with other carvers in your region as most people are willing to let you try their board. I have tried many boards that were bigger or more expensive just to learn I like riding the first board I've bought most on a day by day basis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bora20 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 I have no idea what things cost where you live, plus I live in Canada so things are still more money than in the USA. The original poster asked what he should buy and I told him my experience. He did not give a price limit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 I can cay that wider is better for me now, but if this is a bit softer... If this is good or not for me? Softer is nice when you're learning. A stiff board is pretty scary before you learn how to properly load it up early in the turn before G-forces have built up. When I ride the board I thought was perfect when I was learning, it feels WAY too soft now. Everything is relative. My 'stiff' is likely someone else's 'soft'. You'll likely just have to jump on something and see what you like. It's all fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donek Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 If i got enough money, i'd definately go custom, but for a 1st board i gonna take something cheaper. I'm trying to check that 4wd 179 board now, photos, etc...Will try to find that used Donek. That loooks nice too. Just for reference, there is no extra charge for custom shaping. Customizing a board is simply a keystroke for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 The Donek Blade 170 may work too if you are not already an expert softbooter. I'd say go for the 180 if you are a strong, fast freerider and can carve your edges on your existing gear on easy slopes. If you've never carved a thin line in hardpack snow, the 170 would probably be the better choice. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLN Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 The Donek Blade 170 may work too if you are not already an expert softbooter. I'd say go for the 180 if you are a strong, fast freerider and can carve your edges on your existing gear on easy slopes. If you've never carved a thin line in hardpack snow, the 170 would probably be the better choice.Good luck! Well. I'm riding NS Legacy 174 now and i can see nice narrow path which goes deep in hardpack once i push it harder, but it's still very narrow. Backside always a problem, but i'm going low in a frontside. There's 180 on sale for a weet price, but ain't it too wide? I wanna try narrower(eh.... with US13) board with fast edge-to-edge performance, and i'm in doubt. Would be pleased to know your opinion on that wide blade vs 4wd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Sounds like you could use the 180. I don't think it's too wide, but I dunno - I use a 21cm wide board and my boots are size 28 mondo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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