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F2 Intec Ti proper adjustment & fitting


dmc

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Though I've spent hours pouring over the threads here on BOL, I'm completely new to hardbooting and want to make sure I have my F2 Intec Ti bindings adjusted properly.

I am using standard Intec heels on a UPZ RC-10 boot. (And yes, the heels have t-nuts. :) )

So this is how I have them set up now:

  • The toe blocks engage the front bail and begin to flex it upward with the heel a good 2" from engagement. (Eek. Is the bail designed to flex that much?)
  • The plastic wedges on the heel touch the receiver first—at this point, the pins are still a good 5/16" from engaging.
  • As I push down on the boot, the wedges force the boot into the bail even more. When the pins engage, they sit at the back part of the holes and are help upward by the compression of the toe bail/wedges.
  • There is zero play when bench testing.
  • To disengage, I found it's easiest to step down on the boot, relieving pressure on the pins, and then pulling the cable.

So, all in all, it's a pretty stiff and flex-free setup. Does that sound about right?

Is there any danger in backing off the tension for a little more flex?

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That sounds about right. Ideally you should have zero flex between the boot and the binding while riding as well. Sometimes bench testing will show no play and yet when you really start stressing the bindings while riding you will feel some play.

Loose bindings will result in premature wear of your bindings and can result in failure. Definitely a no no. Luckily the F2's inherently have some flex in them if that's what you're looking for.

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Okay, so keep the interface free from play, and just trust that there will be some inherent flex in the binding while riding. Thanks.

And just for the archives (apologies if this post was a little redundant) here are some photos showing how I have them adjusted now.

Under its own weight on the toe bail, the boot sits about this high up off the receiver before being pressed down:

9zrthw.jpg

At the point the plastic Intec wedge contacts the receiver, the pin is still pretty far off from engaging:

9927ub.jpg

Pushing down on the boot causes the wedge to force the toe further forward into the toe bail. The pin now rests at the top back of the hole:

117rcif.jpg

I hope this proper adjustment (combined with my rather lightweight 145 lbs) will mean a decent service life for these heels. I've read so much stuff about Fintecs here, but I'm taking everything with a grain of salt...

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Though I've spent hours pouring over the threads here on BOL, I'm completely new to hardbooting and want to make sure I have my F2 Intec Ti bindings adjusted properly.

I am using standard Intec heels on a UPZ RC-10 boot. (And yes, the heels have t-nuts. :) )

So this is how I have them set up now:

  • The toe blocks engage the front bail and begin to flex it upward with the heel a good 2" from engagement. (Eek. Is the bail designed to flex that much?)
  • The plastic wedges on the heel touch the receiver first—at this point, the pins are still a good 5/16" from engaging.
  • As I push down on the boot, the wedges force the boot into the bail even more. When the pins engage, they sit at the back part of the holes and are help upward by the compression of the toe bail/wedges.
  • There is zero play when bench testing.
  • To disengage, I found it's easiest to step down on the boot, relieving pressure on the pins, and then pulling the cable.

So, all in all, it's a pretty stiff and flex-free setup. Does that sound about right?

Is there any danger in backing off the tension for a little more flex?

Do you have anyone locally to help?

Few are going to give specifics on the BOL thread due to a number of reasons. Personal liability and the fact that F2 / Intec almost ruined Bomber Industries.

Basic instructions have always stated you should step down BEFORE pulling the release cable. Standard Practice.

Photos of the toe bale interaction would be required. Photos of the side view of the entire boot and binding would be required.

As much as everyone wants to help. This is a slippery slope, perhaps request email/ phone help?

Nice photos by the way!! What type of photography do you specialize in?

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I think the photos there show it pretty well. It's fairly obvious, and you can try them tweaked different ways to see what you like. In my view pretty much if the thing engages then it's good to go.

It may help if you have them tight to step down a bit to disengage... can be a minor issue in deep powder but not once you understand it.

Never noticed flex in the front bail - sounds like you may have them cranked up pretty tight. I haven't really thought about it, but to set them I clip them in then wind down the thumb-wheels. Hence there's no way I'm going to get them tight enough to bend the bails, if you see what I mean. I doubt it matters either way, but possibly you're over-tightening them.

Overall the mount is way more stable than the stuff they replaced (I can't remember what we all used back then), but it's not flex free, there's some give in the system. This, it seems, is a good thing.

I've never had a problem with these, been riding them since the 1st year they came out across a range of boards. Litigation? I'm happy for people to chase me down through the Cambridge County court...

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These have the adjustment dials on the toe bail, right? You didn't post pics of the toe, but I had to screw my toe bail ALL the way down (right on to the boot) to get a good interface on these (I'm running the same boots). However, it sounds like you might have yours screwed down too tight if you're stressing the toe bail ... maybe try backing them right off (so the toe bail is at it's max height), and trying the heel engagement again, to see if it makes any difference. Then screw the toe down until you have a snug fit.

If the heel snaps smoothly when you stand on the receiver and step in, then you're likely good to go. Play around with them a bit, but there's only a small range where the snap in is consistent and easy. You'll know it when you find it. My toe isn't jammed tight on the bail, the bail rests against the curve of the toe piece, and then has a tiny amount of room on either side of the curve.

You'll probably feel some flex when you're riding - I do, and I'm about the same weight as you. But it's not alarming at all, I'm sure you'll be fine.

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Thanks to everyone for the advice.

I've since backed down the tension on the toe bails because, as some have pointed out, I think I had them set too tightly. The bails flex ever so slightly just before pin engagement, and the entire system has very minimal play.

I'm slowly beginning to realize that with hardboot carving, the slightest change in angles, microadjustments, and technique seem to yield huge changes in performance.

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